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Old 04-30-2008, 11:10 AM   #1501
J. Steinbeck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spenk View Post
I'm one of 'em! Redline 75w90 gave me a wicked 4th gear grind when downshifting from 5th at speeds above 40mph that wasn't there when using mineral-based fluids.
Did you use Redline 75w90 or 75w90ns? The regular is a no-go in the gear box. It should only be used in the rear diff, as it is not syncro friendly.

I almost made that mistake... but the inclusion of a limited slip additive in the regular 75W90 made me apprehensive enough that I actually called and spoke with a Redline representative and he gave me the above warning.

So far, my gear box has felt great for about 15,000 miles, with no grinding in any gear... not even going into first.

But then again, I didn't have any problems before I switched oil either.
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Old 04-30-2008, 12:47 PM   #1502
kainam00
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You can find Valvoline locally if you have Murrays auto stores around. It's usually about $11/quart and each Murrays only has one quart in stock... so if anyone is looking for some of this stuff in SE Michigan, good luck, since I've just put all the local stores out of stock
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Old 04-30-2008, 12:53 PM   #1503
Jay04WRX
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does anyone know where you can find it in CT?
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Old 04-30-2008, 01:34 PM   #1504
CrashTestRacer
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Anyone see or have problems with redline lightweight shockproof (on it's own) for the 5MT?

There seems to constantly be people who claim it could damage the sunchro's but I don't think I've ever seen pictures or heard it first hand.

30k with it and no problems here.
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Old 04-30-2008, 02:42 PM   #1505
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I can supply the Valvoline for $9.75 a qt.

There is no fix for the flaw in the 3rd gear syncro unless one of our great machinist here on the NASIOC wants to start making billet center rings for them

PPG just replaces the double coned unit with a standard baulk ring to avoid the issue.

-Dylan @ DS1
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Old 04-30-2008, 03:04 PM   #1506
Jay04WRX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DS1 Motorsports View Post
I can supply the Valvoline for $9.75 a qt.

There is no fix for the flaw in the 3rd gear syncro unless one of our great machinist here on the NASIOC wants to start making billet center rings for them

PPG just replaces the double coned unit with a standard baulk ring to avoid the issue.

-Dylan @ DS1
I just want a good gear oil replacement for the USC that needs to be changed shortly. I really dont care what brand just as long as its good and doesnt cost me an arm and a leg.
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Old 04-30-2008, 03:52 PM   #1507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Steinbeck View Post
Did you use Redline 75w90 or 75w90ns? The regular is a no-go in the gear box. It should only be used in the rear diff, as it is not syncro friendly.
Mine was the regular, non-NS, formulation.

I had no synchro issues before going with synthetic, but the 5/4 downshift quickly became very grouchy with the Redline.
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Old 04-30-2008, 06:16 PM   #1508
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Nothing wrong with conventional 75w90 valvoline. I'm using regular Coastal conventional 75w90 and it's fine. Not great, but I've got an 02 with a worse design than yours.
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Old 04-30-2008, 06:25 PM   #1509
boney7
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well since there is no fix for this issue and something sick will run me 3-6k I'll stick with USC's mixture cause that seems to work 70,000 miles and counting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DS1 Motorsports View Post
I can supply the Valvoline for $9.75 a qt.

There is no fix for the flaw in the 3rd gear syncro unless one of our great machinist here on the NASIOC wants to start making billet center rings for them

PPG just replaces the double coned unit with a standard baulk ring to avoid the issue.

-Dylan @ DS1
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Old 04-30-2008, 08:50 PM   #1510
2slofouru
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DS1 Motorsports View Post
I can supply the Valvoline for $9.75 a qt.

There is no fix for the flaw in the 3rd gear syncro unless one of our great machinist here on the NASIOC wants to start making billet center rings for them

PPG just replaces the double coned unit with a standard baulk ring to avoid the issue.

-Dylan @ DS1
What about that website that produces parts for you if you send a cad drawing? emachineshop.com It is supposedly really cheap if you get the parts done in higher quantity. Does some here know a better design that maybe subaru wouldn't do but could actually improve the transmission? I mean the design flaws seem to be so simple, could this be done?
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Old 04-30-2008, 10:43 PM   #1511
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So, will the Motul gear 300 will be the best for our tranny? Since those Subaru Rally team in Canada is using it?
Does anyone using the Motul for their tranny and diff?
Hows the feeling of using the motul?

Ben
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Old 05-01-2008, 05:09 PM   #1512
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Ben- We use the Motul in both trans and diff, works great

2sloforu- Looking into it now
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Old 05-02-2008, 12:04 AM   #1513
2slofouru
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DS1 Motorsports View Post
Ben- We use the Motul in both trans and diff, works great

2sloforu- Looking into it now
Awesome
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Old 05-04-2008, 02:32 PM   #1514
jakesurfin
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I gotta try it!
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Old 05-04-2008, 02:40 PM   #1515
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2slofouru View Post
What about that website that produces parts for you if you send a cad drawing? emachineshop.com It is supposedly really cheap if you get the parts done in higher quantity. Does some here know a better design that maybe subaru wouldn't do but could actually improve the transmission? I mean the design flaws seem to be so simple, could this be done?
They are actually not that cheap. Go ahead and design something, get a quote for a "one-off," part, and you'll be sticker shocked.

It may be cheaper in a sense as you are not paying for design time, but machine time was pretty absurd. I needed some rings made out of low grade steel, and they wanted some $400 for 4. nothing fancy, no tight tolerances, just a ring made on a lathe or something... But it is a really cool concept
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Old 05-04-2008, 02:52 PM   #1516
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Originally Posted by teiva-boy View Post
They are actually not that cheap. Go ahead and design something, get a quote for a "one-off," part, and you'll be sticker shocked.

It may be cheaper in a sense as you are not paying for design time, but machine time was pretty absurd. I needed some rings made out of low grade steel, and they wanted some $400 for 4. nothing fancy, no tight tolerances, just a ring made on a lathe or something... But it is a really cool concept
I work in a machine shop, for a prototype run $400 does not sound bad. You have to take into account that the hourly machine shop rate is around $100 an hour. You have to account for time to develop the solid works model, CNC program, set up of the machine(we have set ups that take 12+ hours to do), first part(work out any errors), run remaining parts, tear down for the next job. Even a basic set up can be as much as 2hrs depending on what the last job was.

We have had prototype parts that we have spent $50,000 on before a tool ever touched raw material, tooling was over $30,000 of that.
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Old 05-04-2008, 05:54 PM   #1517
Superorb
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Ok, just flushed the Coastal Dino out for some 75w90 Valvoline dino. It feels nice so far, but I'm just happy to get the cocktail out. I was having too many problems with it.
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Old 05-04-2008, 09:42 PM   #1518
2slofouru
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teiva-boy View Post
They are actually not that cheap. Go ahead and design something, get a quote for a "one-off," part, and you'll be sticker shocked.

It may be cheaper in a sense as you are not paying for design time, but machine time was pretty absurd. I needed some rings made out of low grade steel, and they wanted some $400 for 4. nothing fancy, no tight tolerances, just a ring made on a lathe or something... But it is a really cool concept

It is not cheap for making a "one off" but I stated that it would be for many, and making them in larger quantity is cheaper. Maybe even worth it for people who want a worthwhile improvement for their 5mt. But first someone who knows what the heck they are doing will need to design the part(s) properly. Maybe then there can be a "group buy".

Last edited by 2slofouru; 05-06-2008 at 09:23 PM. Reason: there not "their"
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Old 05-06-2008, 01:23 PM   #1519
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We are looking into making a prototype to test then if it functions correctly we will be producing them for the public.

The prototype cost I will eat just to have a better product to use

-Dylan @ DS1
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Old 05-06-2008, 09:26 PM   #1520
2slofouru
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Sweet. Feel free to post pics of your progress, that would be very interesting. Maybe you could set an example subaru could follow..
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Old 05-06-2008, 11:27 PM   #1521
kainam00
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I just changed to Valvoline Synth 75w90 and first impressions are good. The transmission shifts a bit smoother and goes into 1st and reverse easier. I'll be sending the USC I drained to Blackstone labs in the next few days.
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Old 05-07-2008, 12:09 AM   #1522
2slofouru
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Originally Posted by kainam00 View Post
I just changed to Valvoline Synth 75w90 and first impressions are good. The transmission shifts a bit smoother and goes into 1st and reverse easier. I'll be sending the USC I drained to Blackstone labs in the next few days.
I look forward to seeing the test results. How long/how many miles did you have that mix in your transmission? I noticed there weren't any replies to your thread yet, I should have kept the fluid I drained to send.
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Old 05-07-2008, 09:36 AM   #1523
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I've had this particular batch in for a little over a year or probably 15-20k miles. I've been using USC for two years overall. Two years of some extremely hard driving -- over 250 autocross runs (I launch pretty hard too), rallycross, track... you name it... and USC has worked fine for me.

If you search, there are people who've done transmission oil analysis before and posted the results... I'm tempted to re-post all of them in my thread, but haven't really had time to.
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Old 05-07-2008, 03:09 PM   #1524
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story:
im at 88k and was having pretty gnarly grinding going on when hard on the throttle and shifting into 4th (first felt last track day, feb 3rd). before the next event this weekend, i just put in uncle scotty's magical formula, and with the couple pulls ive done, it seems to be gone. but of course, the real test will be at the track(not drag) this weekend.
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Old 05-07-2008, 04:45 PM   #1525
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^^^ all you are doing is making your rebuild more expensive
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