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Old 01-17-2006, 05:22 PM   #1
scoobyimprza
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Default Fuel pump relay related swap problem

First off, this car has run before, but no while I was the owner of it.

When I turn the key to ON, I'm not hearing the fuel pump relay or pump. When I give ground to the fuel pump relay wire from the ECU, the relay clicks and the pump stays on. I'm gonna check the car for the fuel pump controller, but I don't think the EJ20G had one. The relay is good. That ground wire for the relay doesn't have any ground though. So where is the problem?

Brent
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Old 01-17-2006, 08:02 PM   #2
subbyspeed
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sounds like the ground wire lost its ground somewhere, or maybe a soldering connection broke from when the swap was done.. could be a number of things. You could just run a whole new wire from the relay to the ecu, instead of trying to trace it through a harness..

And i do not believe the G's had a FPC, just the usdm wrx's. I could be wrong
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Old 01-17-2006, 08:30 PM   #3
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Is it the wire from the ECU to the fuel pump relay? I think the wire is fine because I touch a ground wire to it and the relay clicks and the fuel pump comes on, but it stays on.
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Old 01-17-2006, 09:09 PM   #4
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That seems weird that the ECU would not be grounding the signal wire. Make sure that your "ignition switch" (B95 12) has 12V when the key is in the "on" position, I usually just hook it up to the "main power" wires. Also double check to make sure that the Grounds (B43 21, B44 24, B44 25, B44 15, B44 14, B43 11, B43 22) are grounded. You may just want to check the back up power(B43 15) while you are in there.
Let me know if you have any other questions
Hope this helps
Rick
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Old 01-19-2006, 01:50 PM   #5
scoobyimprza
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Okay, so I'm not getting ground on B43 21. It's a sensor ground, but I can't find it on the ground distribution of my EJ20G diagrams, so I'm searching the whole thing. Any idea where that ground is?
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Old 01-19-2006, 02:02 PM   #6
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I found it, here's a picture.



It runs to the pressure sensor by the intake and also to the engine wiring harness (B3) and then to the coolant temperature sensor. Now to troubleshoot.
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Old 01-19-2006, 02:47 PM   #7
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I grounded that wire and it didn't help at all.
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Old 01-19-2006, 03:14 PM   #8
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but you checked all the ECU power, back up power, and ignition switch wires?
does your CEL come on with the ignition to ON? (should..)
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Old 01-19-2006, 05:16 PM   #9
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No, the CEL doesn't come on.
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Old 01-19-2006, 06:45 PM   #10
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ah HA, that means that your ECU isnt getting power , so it CANT turn the fuel pump relay on. are you SURe that the ignition switch is connected? also check the 'self shutoff control'. if you KNOW ignition is hooked up and it all has power its most likely the self shutoff.... i had this problem, i had to put a diode between the ignition wire and self shutoff for it to work right. but you can try just tapping the self shutoff directly into a 12v ignition source (ignition switch).

when the accesories are on, the CEL should come on with the fuel pump. lemme know if this works, did on mine.

if its not that and your ECU DOES have power, then check the CEL maybe?
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Old 01-20-2006, 09:33 AM   #11
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Hmmm, I'm pretty sure I'm getting power, but when I was fooling around with stuff a couple days ago the fuel pump was coming on when I had it on ACC. I'll check to see if the CEL is coming on.
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Old 01-20-2006, 02:34 PM   #12
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Dude, I love you forever.

That's what it was. That wire had no power.

The wire right next to it is cut though. It's the purge control solenoid. My wiring diagrams say it's a WL wire, but on my ECU, its YG. I can't find where it was cut from. Where is the PCS? Diagrams say it has a blue connector and it's near the TPS.

Last edited by scoobyimprza; 01-20-2006 at 02:43 PM.
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Old 01-20-2006, 03:36 PM   #13
Natoe
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so it was the self shutoff huh? sweet.

the purge solenoid valve is normally somewhere under the intake manifold on the passenger side. should have a vacuum line from the throttle body going to it, as well as a harness connector. im not sure about what color itd be, my swap was a different engine and ECU and all. (im using my 1.8L purge solenoid though, im 98% sure they are all the same)

so what did you have to do to the self shutoff for it to work?
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Old 01-20-2006, 04:16 PM   #14
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I looked a little harder and I don't have a purge solenoid valve, so I don't have to worry about it.

I just hooked a 12v wire to it and it worked. I'm looking for a diode to put in there now. Where did you get yours? I can't find any on my harness that I'm not using.
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Old 01-20-2006, 04:35 PM   #15
Natoe
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i got a diode from radioshack, one that can handle a couple amps, i forget the part number, if you really need it i can look it up for you though.

puttin the diode in will make it so the self shutoff can still work properly.
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Old 01-20-2006, 04:52 PM   #16
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Yeah, I noticed that everything stayed on.

I looked on Radio Shacks website and there diodes seemed more like home audio diodes. If it's not too much trouble, the part number would be great!
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Old 01-20-2006, 07:01 PM   #17
Natoe
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direct quote from the genius vrg3 at legacycentral.org:

"Get a power diode that can handle a few amps (like maybe the 1N5402 or 1N5404 that Radio Shack sells). Splice the cathode (the end with the stripe) into the self-shutoff control wire. Splice the anode (the other end) into an ignition-switched +12v source. "

this was for the legacy turbo, but im sure the function for the self shutoff is the same! hope this helps.

im not sure if i got one of those parts exactly, just one that could handle like 3 amps and it works. but yeah

good luck
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Old 01-20-2006, 07:05 PM   #18
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Cool, I got one good for 3 amps.
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