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Old 01-22-2006, 08:40 PM   #26
sniece
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So, on a related note, I'm putting together the bits to make one of these myself, and have a couple of questions.

- Is the STi switch a latching, or 'arming' type, or is it just a momentary push switch? I want to make a semi automatic system (micro switch on the throttle, temp sensor on the i/c, and a timer), so I'd prefer to be able to use it for arming only.
- If one was to put the reservoir in the trunk, what is the normal way to run tubing up to the front of the car? What is the factory routing? I'm guessing the easiest would be running an armoured tube under the car...perhaps made out of rigid brake line? I had originally hoped to mount it under the hood, but there's precious little real-estate there, and I don't really want to tap off of the windshield washer tank if I can avoid it.

Thanks for any assistance.
Steve
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Old 01-23-2006, 05:30 AM   #27
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Steve,
'Fraid the US & UK STi switch is momentary. It kicks a 5 sec timer coil on the relay.

The UK & US water bottle is in the passenger side of the trunk but the tubing goes across to the drivers side, behind the rear seats and is clipped in place with the brake lines. It then exits the drivers footwell into the wheel arch and goes into the engine bay by the fuse box.
The JDM STis have a water bottle in the engine bay mounted against the drivers bulkhead - An ideal spot to cut down wiring and tubing lengths - I guess US cars have this space filled up with the brake servo though

As for wiring, the 2 & 4 pin connections to the fog light switch is to give illumination only when side/main lights are on. Is this the light that is showing?

Nick
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Old 01-23-2006, 12:11 PM   #28
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Yeah I tapped into the 2 & 4 pins off of the cruise switch, but only the lower part of the switch illuminates? When I say lower part, I'm talking about the "waterspray" part. The "IC" part doesn't illuminate? I this normal, or is there two lights to illuminate the Sti switch?
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Old 01-23-2006, 08:45 PM   #29
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bump...
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Old 01-23-2006, 08:58 PM   #30
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I didn't read through your whole post...so if you still need wiring help I have pictures and a tutorial I never put together because I couldn't find all the info I wanted at the time either.
As far as the switch goes, I have the USDM switch that you have to hold in, and only the bottom half of it is lit up just like you described, so that must be normal.
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Old 01-23-2006, 11:55 PM   #31
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ok... thanks for the info. Mines the same way?
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Old 02-27-2006, 02:12 PM   #32
Okita Souji
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My switch illuminates the same. Only the "water spray" part lights up.
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Old 03-09-2006, 12:02 PM   #33
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As long as it lights up and you can tell what the button does I wouldn't be concerned. At least you got the button to work. I am still trying to figure out how to wire a relay into the system, and what relay exactly to wire in. Fuse amps and voltage properties, etc.
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Old 06-06-2006, 06:21 PM   #34
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Subscribe for good info
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Old 02-11-2008, 01:01 PM   #35
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sorry to bring this back from the dead but i'm trying to find out how to wire the sti ic switch up to a relay and the switch is set up as a ground interupting switch because of the subaru pumps always being hot (at least thats what i found/think from bench testing the switch and researching) I have a wagon and want to keep my rear washer pump so i want to put in a completely seperate system, which i had from my old car but all i need to figure out is how to wire a relay to a ground interupting switch, with a positive source i have no problem but getting a relay to "open" with a ground makes no sense to me hopefully someone can help me. The switch is all installed, lights up, and if i have a pump with a positive source and hook the group to the switch, the pump turns on but i don't want it to run like that and risk blowing the switch or any associated wiring.

ps. everyone asking about what parts should be lighting up, there is no light located in the ic part of the switch that is why only the waterspray lights up, and even relocating a bulb to that location it still does not light
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Old 02-11-2008, 06:38 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07wrxwag View Post
<snip>i want to put in a completely seperate system, which i had from my old car but all i need to figure out is how to wire a relay to a ground interupting switch, with a positive source i have no problem but getting a relay to "open" with a ground makes no sense to me hopefully someone can help me. The switch is all installed, lights up, and if i have a pump with a positive source and hook the group to the switch, the pump turns on but i don't want it to run like that and risk blowing the switch or any associated wiring.

ps. everyone asking about what parts should be lighting up, there is no light located in the ic part of the switch that is why only the waterspray lights up, and even relocating a bulb to that location it still does not light
Most automotive lighting relays, like from Radio Shack, should have a normally open position, and a normally closed position. If you wire to the normally open side, this should cause the circuit to ground to close when the relay is triggered. Subarus, from what I've experienced, have SWITCHED ground, which means that yes, 12VDC is always present at the device, but the switch completes the path to ground. If you genuinely need to remove the ground path in order to activate the pump, go to the normally closed side of your relay.

Steve
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Old 02-11-2008, 08:01 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sniece View Post
Most automotive lighting relays, like from Radio Shack, should have a normally open position, and a normally closed position. If you wire to the normally open side, this should cause the circuit to ground to close when the relay is triggered. Subarus, from what I've experienced, have SWITCHED ground, which means that yes, 12VDC is always present at the device, but the switch completes the path to ground. If you genuinely need to remove the ground path in order to activate the pump, go to the normally closed side of your relay.

Steve
Thanks for the post, unfortunately i am still not understanding. I can get it to work with a normal switch that has a positive signal source but since the pump i will be putting in will not be running off the subaru wiring so it wont be hot all the time, i am trying to power it off a relay and get the relay to be triggered from the sti switch which is a ground interupting switch. Is there another type of relay i can buy or someway to make it work if anyone has a diagram or anything more to offer i'd appreciate it alot
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Old 02-12-2008, 04:24 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07wrxwag View Post
Thanks for the post, unfortunately i am still not understanding. I can get it to work with a normal switch that has a positive signal source but since the pump i will be putting in will not be running off the subaru wiring so it wont be hot all the time, i am trying to power it off a relay and get the relay to be triggered from the sti switch which is a ground interupting switch. Is there another type of relay i can buy or someway to make it work if anyone has a diagram or anything more to offer i'd appreciate it alot
I'm thinking this is what you may have to do. Since the STi switch is a ground interrupter, what you would do is have two different paths to ground. Since the current will take the easiest path to ground, when the switch is 'off' current will flow through the switch, and you won't operate the pump. Now, create another path to ground, which allows the current to go through the pump, but put a 1k ohm resistor inline. When the STi switch is 'on' (breaking it's ground path) the 1k Ohm path will be the easiest one, and the pump should activate. Essentially, both the switch and the relay would be 'hot', but current will only flow through the easiest one, meaning that the pump won't drive, until the 1kOhm is the easiest path, closing the relay. I am by no means an electrical engineer, but this is how I think things should work.

One other thought, as I recall, the STi switch is only a momentary press (?), so you need to be pushing it in order for the pump to run. Taking your hands off the wheel to do this isn't something you want to be doing while you're seeing enough boost to warrant the sprayer. Why not rig the i/c sprayer off of a pressure switch? My (admittedly ghetto) setup has a thermistor, and a boost switch in the path, and runs the front washer pump, which has the water line teed, with a manual valve to switch (eventually I'll put in an electrically operated valve). If the i/c isn't over about 30 degrees C, then the path is broken. Once the i/c is hot enough, and I hit about 8psi of boost, then boost switch completes the path, and operates the pump. With this setup, if you still want to use the STi switch, and it is a 'push-on, push-off' style, then you could use that to arm the circuit. My arming switch is a little rocker switch hidden down near the hood release.

Just a thought as an alternative.

Disclaimer- Please check all of your wiring, what you wire up is your business...my suggestions don't make me responsible for your car catching fire!

Steve

Last edited by sniece; 02-12-2008 at 06:38 PM.
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Old 02-12-2008, 06:41 PM   #39
07wrxwag
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Thanks for the help steve i'll have to look into adding a set up similar to yours because it sounds like a better plan, however in the other car i had it hooked up with just a momentary switch and it was fine normally hit it after a pull or during a dyno run to keep efficiency up so it never really became a hazard but your idea still sounds better. I might just try and run w/o a relay as it seems thats what most people are doing and have a 5 amp inline fuse and so if anything gets to hot that will blow before the switch itself but we'll see i'm going to look more into this and research what steve has for a setup, but if any one else has more info let me know
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Old 02-12-2008, 10:02 PM   #40
07wrxwag
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taken from: www.the12volt.com If you have a switch or an alarm or keyless entry that has a negative output that you wish to use to switch a device that requires 12V+ such as a horn, dome light, parking lights, head lights, hatch release, etc., wire a relay as shown below to convert the negative output (trigger) to a positive output.



this is exactly what i was looking for hopefully this will help some others out
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Old 02-17-2008, 02:55 PM   #41
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Just did this.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1439639

Had a few problems the first time around but I took a break and next weekend only took me about an hour to finish it. Let me know if you need any help maybe I could be of assitance. Good luck!
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Old 02-20-2008, 11:11 PM   #42
07wrxwag
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RWSchober View Post
Just did this.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1439639

Had a few problems the first time around but I took a break and next weekend only took me about an hour to finish it. Let me know if you need any help maybe I could be of assitance. Good luck!

awesome thanks just ordered one up, now i just need to find a spot to mount my tank
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Old 02-21-2008, 02:02 PM   #43
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On question about this post.
Where in hell did you guys find space in the engine bay for the sprayer bottle.
I am thinking I may have to mount it in the booth.
Can anyone whi did this mod take photos of your bottle location.
I have an STi sprayer bottle.
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Old 02-21-2008, 06:39 PM   #44
07wrxwag
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foska Oats View Post
On question about this post.
Where in hell did you guys find space in the engine bay for the sprayer bottle.
I am thinking I may have to mount it in the booth.
Can anyone whi did this mod take photos of your bottle location.
I have an STi sprayer bottle.
i think alot of people are either using the sti trunk mounted tank, or they are using the rear window washer bottle spot on your exisiting tank, as for the guys with wagons or people doing it some how else i'm not sure, trying to figure that part out myself
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Old 02-22-2008, 02:00 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07wrxwag View Post
i think alot of people are either using the sti trunk mounted tank, or they are using the rear window washer bottle spot on your exisiting tank, as for the guys with wagons or people doing it some how else i'm not sure, trying to figure that part out myself
Cool, I guess I better fab a casing for the trunk
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Old 03-16-2008, 04:50 PM   #46
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I have a rear strut bar in my wagon and made a water container from a 4" PVC tube and fittings that fits to the bar. Easy to remove and install as needed. Ran the tubing and wiring through the side channel underneath the inside trim. No muss, no fuss.

And I have two switches. One is momentary on and the other is push on/push off. There are two different ones, but finding them both may be a chore.
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Old 03-04-2009, 08:05 AM   #47
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i think my relay may be blown, anyone know where i can replace it?
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