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Old 03-05-2006, 01:00 PM   #1
Norcalrallyist
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Default Cant get engine out of V1 clip

So Im trying to get the engine out of my front clip... I have the bolts out of the transmission, the top mount removed, the bottom two bolts removed from the crossmemeber, the bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel (desperate), the pivot pin and I dont see any other bolts to take off and this thing isnt budgeing one bit. I hoisted the engine up away from the crossmember and started shaking it and pulling on it but it wont come away form the transmission. I took the boot off the shift fork and moved it around some and it doesnt seem to be connected to anything really. What am I missing?
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Old 03-05-2006, 01:18 PM   #2
andys
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How Did You Get The Bolts Off The Pressure Plate?

use a prybar.
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Old 03-05-2006, 01:20 PM   #3
Patrick L
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So your trying to tranny off the engine and it will not come loose. Sounds like the alingment pins on the engine bell housing might be rusted and make it hard to seperate. Spary some penatrating oil on the pins and lower studs.
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Old 03-05-2006, 01:23 PM   #4
Patrick L
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Also, did you remove the nuts on the studs on the very bottom of the bell housing cause it's not all bolts that hold the tranny on the engine.
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Old 03-05-2006, 01:49 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Top_Dog
Also, did you remove the nuts on the studs on the very bottom of the bell housing cause it's not all bolts that hold the tranny on the engine.
Yes I did. I also sprayed some penetrating oil on the studs and all around the housing. I took the bolts off the flywheel by removing the access cover off the bottom. I couldnt imagine why I would need to but I was getting desperate
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Old 03-05-2006, 03:21 PM   #6
andys
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you need to pry the pieces apart. I am not really surprised that you can't pull them apart. Hammer some kind of wedge into the seam. By a pry bar kit.

V1 STI? Awesome. There is NO REASON to build up a WRX for rally when you can buy and old impreza and stick an early STI clip in. My 92 EJ20G and STI-RA tranny rips it up right good. The single most expensive part on my car -by far- is the DMS.
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Old 03-05-2006, 03:28 PM   #7
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all subarus I get up here have the trans & engine fused together. Esp. the older stuff. Just all the junk weather. I just use 2 wedges and they will come apart. haha one was so bad had to use the air hammer.

If you dont want it to do that again make sure and spray it down w/ some cosmoline after it's back together
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Old 03-05-2006, 04:03 PM   #8
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big screwdriver and a big hammer and an extra set of hands, and you should be good to pull it appart.
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Old 03-05-2006, 06:01 PM   #9
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mmm

another aproch
after you losen the 2 botls at the cross member you must first jack the engine/trans up to move it forward to get those bolts to clear the subfram

just unbolt the subframe
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Old 03-05-2006, 10:04 PM   #10
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you got hte pivot pin out of the bellousing rite for the clutch fork?

BFH is friend here.
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Old 03-06-2006, 11:10 AM   #11
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You don't really need to hammer the crap out of it to get it to seperate. A little finesse will go a long way. Get under the car and get it started with a prybar between the engine and tranny in the gap. You may need to pull off the road grime cover plate that is held on with 2 10mm bolts. Get it started from the bottom and them move up to the top and get the bar into the crack you have now created between the two. If you've got 2 bars and two guys who can do it evenly on each side simultaneaously, it's easier, but one guy can do it just fine. But I have never had to pound anything in between then to get them started. Just use some sense and don't beat the crap out of your bellhousing...
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Old 03-06-2006, 03:22 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Monson
You don't really need to hammer the crap out of it to get it to seperate. A little finesse will go a long way. Get under the car and get it started with a prybar between the engine and tranny in the gap. You may need to pull off the road grime cover plate that is held on with 2 10mm bolts. Get it started from the bottom and them move up to the top and get the bar into the crack you have now created between the two. If you've got 2 bars and two guys who can do it evenly on each side simultaneaously, it's easier, but one guy can do it just fine. But I have never had to pound anything in between then to get them started. Just use some sense and don't beat the crap out of your bellhousing...
I did that but I havent done anything with to much force. It just felt like it was still being held together by something know what i mean? The weekend im going to give it hell! Or Im cutting that damn clip into pieces
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Old 03-06-2006, 04:08 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swapstar
you got hte pivot pin out of the bellousing rite for the clutch fork?

BFH is friend here.
+1

This was my problem when I was trying to seperate my '95 motor. But it looks like you said you took care of it.
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Old 03-06-2006, 04:21 PM   #14
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Wiggle, pry, wiggle, wiggle, pry, pry, wiggle, pry, wiggle, pry, sweat, bitch, pry, wiggle and a jack under the trans. helps a bit

The most common real problem is the pivot for the clutch fork other than that it's usually just stuborn.
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Old 03-06-2006, 05:23 PM   #15
Hurley 2.5 WRS
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so, why are you separating it from the tranny? why dont you just pull it all out?

as matt said, finesse goes a really long way
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Old 03-06-2006, 05:55 PM   #16
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Of the 4 subaru engines i've done, all of them have had the dowel pins rusted in the bellhousing of the tranny.. Makes for a bitch to get it, but as soon as you can get that little gap, its on with a prybar and some good ol' fashioned hate.
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Old 03-08-2006, 01:05 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hurley 2.5 WRS
so, why are you separating it from the tranny? why dont you just pull it all out?

as matt said, finesse goes a really long way

very true. if you have the means to pull the engine and tranny, it's much easier to seperate when out of the car.

hammer, hands, and prybars... tap, wiggle, and pry.

josh
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