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Old 07-07-2014, 04:46 PM   #1
Dirtyrex14
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Member#: 370823
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Chicago
Vehicle:
2014 WRX
WRB

Default Tuning for TMIC

So I'm planning on getting a new TMIC to replace my stock TMIC. I'm pretty new to tuning but would like to try to tune it myself. I have a 2014 WRX with the TP stage 2 tune. From what I've read a larger bar and plate TMIC will reduce IAT, and reduce pressure drop across the IC. This would normally allow you to run a more aggressive timing but my since IDCs are at about 90% at WOT right now, I'm not planning on trying to get too much more power out of the TMIC. I'm planning on using it as more of a safe support mod till I can get larger injectors and fuel pump therefor I'm hoping I can get away without adjusting timing.

So from what I understand about tuning, if my IATs are lower that means colder charge which would reduce possibility of knock but also lean out my AFRs a bit do to the increased O2 in the denser charge. Would these 2 balance each other out? or should I richen up my AFRs a bit to be safe? I'm also assuming my WGDCs and possibly Turbo dynamics will need to be slightly adjusted because of the reduced pressure drop across the IC. If I'm forgetting anything please let me know, and if I'm way out of my league feel free to tell me. And any tips or suggestions you have concerning tuning would be appreciated.
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Old 07-08-2014, 03:52 PM   #2
yakmastermax
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Member#: 352649
Join Date: Apr 2013
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Boulder CO
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2006 Subaru
SGM

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You shouldn't need to adjust the map at all for the upgraded intercooler. While the colder and more dense charge will contain more O2 the ecu will adjust accordingly.
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Old 07-08-2014, 05:15 PM   #3
Dirtyrex14
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WRB

Default

Really? from everything I've read our ECUs are retarded and don't adjust to anything. Hence why we need to tune for every little modification we do. I know a TMIC is a supporting mod but i figured there would still be some values to adjust.
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Old 07-08-2014, 05:31 PM   #4
mikeydrives1
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Yes and no, more or less. The ECU has a pretty good Knock and Fuel trim learning system. The AF learnings will tell a tuner whats going on with the tune and how the ECU is responding in real-time, as well as learned values over longer periods of time for various modes such as Idle (A) , Low RPM cruising, very light acceleration (B), Moderate RPM cruising/acceleration (C) and sometimes for higher RPM acceleration and cruising, all within Closed Loop mode.

When it comes to things like improved Top mounts, your not exactly modifying the motor to be taking in or expeling out any more air like it would with an intake or a downpipe, so as long as your MAF is adjusted properly and your injectors are dialed in right, you should not see any significant changes in your maximum Calculated load during pulls. On the other end of that, with an improved intercooler, the incoming charge is now cooler and more dense than before. Having cooler air allows a tuner better opportunity to make power on a dyno by maybe running a slightly leaner AFR at wide open throttle, or perhaps slip a degree or two of more timing advance in there. This is because a cooler intake temperature lowers the likelyhood of knock occuring. A cooler environment in the motor makes it a safer one, allowing a tuner to make these changes.

Front mounts are similar in the sense that they do not cause the motor to bring in or expel any more air than they really were before, however, due to the fact that there is more piping involved, a tuner will have to adjust things now because the incoming air now has to cover a broader area after it is compressed by the turbo, most notably low-end driving throttle response, wastegate duty and tip-in enrichments. Front mounts will cool air much more than a top mount could ever practically do.


-Mikey
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