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Old 03-08-2006, 02:44 PM   #1
Impr3zy0u
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Default Compression test instructions with pics.

So i didnt really find any good instructions online on how to do a compression test on a 2002 WRX, so heres a little thing i made to help others that are looking to do this. Once this checks out the next best thing to do is have a leak down test completed.
First things first you want the engine worm when doing the test. I found that the time needed to get everything out of the way and ready to test is plenty enough time for the engine to go from HOT, to worm.
With this method i recommend gloves as the engine will be pretty hot. I left the engine running and got as much work done as i could with it running. Pulled off the passanger side molding to gain access to the fuel pump relay, unbolted the 2 bolts at the battom of the air filter box, loosened the hose clamps, took off the battery tie-down, and pulled the windshield washer resivor.
After that is all done you will want to shut off the car, and go to the passanger side of the car and look for the green plug. This is the fuel pump relay and youll want to un-plug this. Its easier said than done but it will eventually come off. Dont tug on the wires.

After thats pulled, pull the intake box off, pull the batt, and you should already have the windshield resivor off and out of the way. Should look like this, a mess


Next you'll want to pull off the coils. One bolt holds each on, and then a simple clip to unplug them and totally remove them from the engine bay for more room. Keep track which one was where. Im not sure if it matters, but i didnt want to find out the hard way. The drivers side rear one is a PITA, you pretty much have to loosen it with a socket, then do the rest with your hand.
Next youll want to remove all the plugs. Get a spark plug socket with the rubber insert to hold the plugs, helps alot. I would also tape the socket to the extenson. Mine keep falling off the extension in the cylinder.

Plugs and coils removed.

Next screw in the compression testor and crank the engine the same amount of times for each cylinder. I did 6 cranks for each one, also rember to floor the throttle. Pray they come out ok
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Last edited by Impr3zy0u; 03-12-2006 at 11:27 PM.
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Old 03-08-2006, 02:45 PM   #2
Impr3zy0u
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Here are the results for my cylinders. Good luck, boxers are the worst engines to do compression tests on, have fun!11!
Passanger rear

Passanger front

Driver rear

Driver front

150, 150, 150, 150

**Another thing i forgot to mention**
On the passanger side rear cylinder there is the front o2 wire bracket that is attached to the same bolt and the coil, dont forget to put that back on when installing the coil.

Last edited by Impr3zy0u; 03-12-2006 at 11:24 PM.
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Old 03-08-2006, 02:48 PM   #3
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looks good how many miles are on your car?
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Old 03-08-2006, 02:49 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dvang
looks good how many miles are on your car?
64,442
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Old 03-08-2006, 04:31 PM   #5
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what do you mean by cranking the engine six times???

I'm near 70,000 changed my plugs at 55... they were a bit white so I want to check them again... mine as well do this too I figure.
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Old 03-08-2006, 04:35 PM   #6
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you have to crank it over to get a compression reading, i did it 6 times, or till the needle is steady.
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Old 03-08-2006, 04:54 PM   #7
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Is flooring the throttle a must? or can it be done without? what other ways can you stop from the car cranking up beside pulling the fuel pump relay?

Nice write up btw, very useful.
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Old 03-08-2006, 04:59 PM   #8
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Flooring the throttle is nessacery to allow air to be pulled into the cylinders.
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Old 03-08-2006, 05:01 PM   #9
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Oh ok cool, just checking.
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Old 03-08-2006, 05:29 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _sti_05
Is flooring the throttle a must? or can it be done without? what other ways can you stop from the car cranking up beside pulling the fuel pump relay?

Nice write up btw, very useful.
What do you mean "stop from the car cranking up"? As in starting? With no plugs, or coils, or fuel, if it starts you have a keeper. BTW between not flooring it and flooring it i noticed like a 5psi difference
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Old 03-08-2006, 05:34 PM   #11
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True, never thought if that. My head is not in the right place today.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Impr3zy0u
What do you mean "stop from the car cranking up"? As in starting? With no plugs, or coils, or fuel, if it starts you have a keeper. BTW between not flooring it and flooring it i noticed like a 5psi difference
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Old 03-08-2006, 06:19 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _sti_05
True, never thought if that. My head is not in the right place today.
That assumes you remove all coils at once.

When I do mine, I am in the habit (no reason) of doing one cylinder completely at a time (remove coil, remove plug, test, install plug, install coil).

The step after disconnecting the fuel pump relay should always be: Crank the car until the engine stalls. Crank a bit more.

Then remove battery.

It's a safety thing.
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Old 03-08-2006, 07:48 PM   #13
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I was under the impression that you needed to pull all plugs before testing to get an accurate reading.
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Old 03-08-2006, 07:57 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tea cups
I was under the impression that you needed to pull all plugs before testing to get an accurate reading.
It helps the engine crank over a bit easier, but it shouldn't change the reading any real ammount.
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Old 03-08-2006, 08:03 PM   #15
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you could simply pull the EFI fuse

its a lot easier than pulling the fuel pump relay.

also, yes it is best to remove all the coils and spark plugs. make it easier to turn the motor over for the compression test.
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Old 03-08-2006, 08:05 PM   #16
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may i ask where you got the compression tester and for how much?
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Old 03-08-2006, 09:32 PM   #17
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You dont have to disconnect the coils, just disconnect spark. Its the brown plug next to the green one under the kick panel. You dont have to keep the coils in order just need the plug the wires in correctly. The white connectors go in the front coils the black connectors go in the back coils.
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Old 03-08-2006, 10:02 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jordanscotty
may i ask where you got the compression tester and for how much?
Murrys, like $20
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Old 03-10-2006, 07:04 AM   #19
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good, the question of engine health is out of way... hope you inspected those coilpacks closely, there's no good way to verify their condition other than physically or swapping a known good pack with a known misfiring hole, find any vacuum or preturbo leaks?
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Old 03-10-2006, 12:45 PM   #20
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I didnt find any leaks and everything looked good with the coils/plugs.
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Old 03-10-2006, 02:41 PM   #21
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when i did mine i couldn't find the fuel pump fuse so i just pull the connectors off the injectors. Is there anything wrong with that?
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Old 03-10-2006, 02:57 PM   #22
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pics are b0rked
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Old 03-10-2006, 03:15 PM   #23
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wow n00b, you got a sticky and borked your pics.
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Old 03-12-2006, 06:54 PM   #24
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I've gotta do this later in the week... so the unit is only 20.00 or so
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Old 03-12-2006, 08:36 PM   #25
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so what's the best way to do this? plugs must be removed or not when performing compression test?
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