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Old 09-08-2000, 11:17 PM   #1
Peter Hadfield
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 1890
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Renton, Washington, USA
Vehicle:
1990 Legacy L Sedan
Champagne Rally Car #212

Angry Overheating

I am currently fighting overheating problems with my 90 Legacy L model. I have already had the thermostat replaced. I cannot think of any other reason why this problem continues to occur. The radiator was replaced just before I bought the car. No coolant is leaking, with the exception of when I shut the car down when the temp goes too high, and coolant is pushed out of the reserve coolant tank. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!
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Old 09-09-2000, 01:57 AM   #2
Ben
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 423
Join Date: Oct 1999
Chapter/Region: E. Canada
Location: Markham, Ont , Canada
Vehicle:
2002 WRX wagon
Silver

Post

Any sounds come out around the front?
I would think about the water pump.
Have you change the water pump when you replace the timing belt?? If you didn't , then it maybe the problem since you said you already change the thermost and coolant in the tank!!!
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Old 09-09-2000, 05:44 AM   #3
Peaty
Techno Sapien
Moderator
 
Member#: 449
Join Date: Oct 1999
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Lawrence, KS
Vehicle:
2010 Legacy 3.6R Lim
Azurite Blue Pearl

Arrow

Did you change the radiator cap? Maybe it's no longer holding the proper pressure. One thing you may want to do is this. When the car is cold remove the radiator cap and have someone start the car. Watch the level of coolant. If it's forced out very fast when it's first started up, you may have a block or headgasket leak. The combustion gas gets forced into the coolant and pushes it out. I've seen this happen but not on a Subaru.

I'm thinking water pump too. Those are just some other thoughts.

[This message has been edited by Peaty (edited September 09, 2000).]
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Old 09-09-2000, 03:34 PM   #4
smartservice
Former Vendor
 
Member#: 842
Join Date: Feb 2000
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Seattle, Wa, USA
Vehicle:
1969 Subaru 360
Blue

Post

Here's a step by step on checking your cooling system.

1.Check the vehicle coolant level stone cold in AM in radiator and resevoir. If it is low at all top it up (you may have to remove the air purge plug on the other end of the radiator to make sure it's fully purged of air pockets.

2. With a cooling system pressure tester pressurize the system to 17 psi. Inspect all hoses,clamps, water pump, radiator seams for any sign of coolant leakage.(You can bypass this step if you don't have a pressure tester but sometimes it's necessary to weed out those slow leaks.)

3. With cap on start vehicle and let idle.(all accesories off) Feel the upper radiator hose. It should be cool to the touch. Keep feeling it while monitoring the temp gauge. When the thermostat opens the hose will start getting hot rather quickly. At the point you feel it is getting hot check where the temp gauge is sitting. It should be at 1/3-1/2 way up. Continue to monitor the gauge to see when the electric fans kick in. The gauge should read no higher than 1/2-5/8. After the fan cycles on and off once turn the AC on to make sure that both fans come on.

4. If all checks out fine but your problems persist then the next step will require an exhaust gas anaylizer.(most repair shops have one) With the car cooled down again and the radiator cap off, hold the probe of an exhaust gas anaylizer above the throat of the radiator and also above the coolant recovery tank. Be carful not to suck up any coolant as it will ruin the equipment. If you have a failed head gasket or crack in the block or head (very unlikely) you will detect Hydrocarbons (HC's) coming out of the radiator and in the recovery bottle. Anything above 8 or 10ppm HC's is the sign that exhaust is getting in the cooling system.

Hope this helps solve your problem

Mike Corbin
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