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Old 05-29-2006, 12:34 PM   #26
2phless
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If anyone does make aftermarket gears, that AVCS intake gear is gonna cost an absolute fortune. And the exhaust gear is already plastic so I doubt anyone makes a lighter one. There may be a stronger one but that's not a part I heard of breaking. With a good kevlar belt you probably won't jump timing and if you introduced more metal gears you'd probably lose belt life. If you are going for adjustability, that's just an added confusion to an existing timing mess.
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Old 05-30-2006, 12:46 PM   #27
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I broke a few tools before making my own. I used a 10mm 1/2 inch drive socket, and cut an allen wrench, so that the stub piece fit in the socket, and about 10mm stuck out. this fit in the cam bolt. I bent a 3foot long Snap-on breaker bar, and ground a 1-1/8 inch wrench to fit the cam perfectly. Lots of work, and swearing, but it worked. Given, this is for a MY02 EJ20, and not an STi motor, but my 1000ft/lb impact could not take these bolts out.
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Old 05-30-2006, 02:14 PM   #28
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I just bought a strap wrench and had an impact gun and all of them came off pretty easy.
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Old 06-12-2006, 11:25 AM   #29
Sadisticracer1
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well my friends shop and i got the gears off but broke them in the process. i had to order all new oem gears since i could not locate any aftermarket pieces. does anyone know how long the oem gears will last on completely re-worked heads? ie ported, polished with 3angle valve job on both intake and exhaust ports?
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Old 06-12-2006, 05:12 PM   #30
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I get to try this fiasco again from my last time tonight on JDM avcs heads... T minus 1 hour till I break some more tools. I will try the old timing belt and vice grips trick. I hope I don't bring down the whole engine stand when I'm hanging from the breaker bar.
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Old 06-13-2006, 11:55 PM   #31
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yea i just got a complete sti engine and its time for tear down..... so i will let everyone know what happens with this one......

Eric

ps- if anyone wants sti heads pm me lol
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Old 06-14-2006, 12:30 AM   #32
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Easy as pie this time thatnks to Subaru Junkie... 4 cam gears... 4 minutes.
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Old 06-14-2006, 01:00 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InfamousDX
Easy as pie this time thatnks to Subaru Junkie... 4 cam gears... 4 minutes.
i hope mine is the same.....
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Old 06-15-2006, 02:28 AM   #34
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yeah i am actually in this same rut.... I pulled the motor out of my car cuz number 2 cyl had 60% leakage... and it was leaking out the turbo so i figure its the exhaust valves... Well i got the motor out just fine.. but those dang sprockets are giving me hell i broke some tools already.. and I am going to try to use a impact and zap those suckers off.

Has anyone tryed to heat those bolts up with some tourch, then break them loose? Whats the best way to remove them without breaking the sprockets? I also have my timing belt on still so could i just use a impact and hope for the best??
I`ll be going at it all day saturday so any help you guys can give before would be great!!!

Thanks again
Sean
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Old 06-15-2006, 08:29 AM   #35
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i'm having a pretty tough time here. I am going to try to come up with a write up on how to do this when im done, cause this is just a PITA

Eric
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Old 06-15-2006, 09:41 AM   #36
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I've heated the bolts up... but only on the metal cam gears because the plastic ones will break. Get a GOOD 10mm hex socket... like a snap-on. Either that or get a normal craftsman one but have a welder WELD the hex key into the socket as the 2 will separate from stubborn cam gears. It's happened to all my craftsman ones.

I just got 3 of 4 wrx cam gears in 10 minutes last night... not too bad.
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Old 06-15-2006, 12:29 PM   #37
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yeah this is a PITA Ordeal... I`ll have my Craftsman hex socket welded, and I`ll have the Snap-on for back-up.. So i`ll try a lil flame on the metal Intake cam gears.. then should I just use a Impact gun and hope for the best...

If i use a Impact, I`ll have to use a 1/2inch to 3/8 reducer so i can use my 10mm hex socket Will that be alright? or will i probley break some more tools
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Old 06-15-2006, 12:57 PM   #38
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I used the 1/2>3/8 adapter for all this.
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Old 06-15-2006, 04:28 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InfamousDX
I used the 1/2>3/8 adapter for all this.

Thank you for all the INFO!! Great thread haha, i`ll show pics when i am done this weekend
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Old 06-15-2006, 09:04 PM   #40
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Bah... last ****ing cam gear was being a bitch and I walked the inside of the bolt head. Now I'm going to have to have a friend weld the hex head in there and just buy a new bolt. Whatever... at least that's easier.

PS quality tools help.
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Old 06-15-2006, 11:50 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CK02WRX
You can't use the 1 1/8 wrench on an STI. I did it this way. I put two of the flywheel bolts in and used a wrench between them that was long enough to touch the engine stand mounts. That way the crank bolt doesn't tighten and you can use both hands to loosen the cam gear bolts. It also makes it a one person job instead of 2+ like others have needed. I also found out that the Snap-on 10mm 1/2" drive hex socket was very strong and would not break like craftsman and several other that I broke. It lists of $20 but its worth it because you break several $10 sockets and never get one bolt loose.

nice job.. its similar to what quirt had said, which i think is brilliant! ive always used the special tools because they are available to me. but i dont think i would have come up with such a effective method that you guys did. kudos to you guys.

oh almost forgot... snap on tools are the shizz! they dont give like cheaper tools, which round off bolts/nuts, and just leaves your frustrated because you now have to fix something stupid.
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Old 06-17-2006, 06:24 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InfamousDX
Bah... last ****ing cam gear was being a bitch and I walked the inside of the bolt head. Now I'm going to have to have a friend weld the hex head in there and just buy a new bolt. Whatever... at least that's easier.

PS quality tools help.

I ran into the same damn problem.. got the ones of cyl #2, #4 just fine.... the intake came sprocet one cyls number 1 and 3 we used a nice breaker bar and that was tough to get off... And now to the exhaust sprocket.... Well that FLipin thing would not break loose with the impact, we tryed the bar and broke 2 sockets and striped the bolt out

on the last damn Sprocket!! AHHH, Well then we tryed to take the Cyl 1,4 head off and we the for some reason the 1st bolt would not break loose all the others did even the 1000ft lb impact gun would not break it
So i guess i must bring the hole damn Motor to a machine shop

All in all these things are hard to take off!! and yes Quality tools are nice... Craftsman SUCks BALLS.. broke 2 of there hex sockets. and the one from napa made it though the battle with no problem
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Old 06-17-2006, 09:23 PM   #43
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You guys need to get some real impact guns and run them with real air pressure. 175psi works good but if you can use 200psi. Also impact guns take alot of cfm, a 3/8" hose isnt gonna cut it. Most people dont have enough air for any more then a 1/2" impact. Dont use adapters or extensions, you want the most ridget possible setup so you dont lose the sharp hammer blow of an impact. If that "1000ftlb" impact was really making 1000ftlbs there is no way you could hold the cam sprocket and if you did it would destroy ANY 10mm alen socket.

Head bolts or any long bolt for that matter are hard for impacts to remove, The bolt twists and absorbs much of the impacts blow, many times only a breaker bar will remove them.


Also someone mentioned welding a tool, DO NOT weld any tools, they are heat treated and will turn into mush after you weld them.
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Old 06-18-2006, 10:51 PM   #44
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PS... what do you do when the inside of the bolt is rounded out? ****
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Old 06-18-2006, 11:30 PM   #45
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I would drill the bolt. Drill it as close to the size of the bolt as you can, make sure you are centered and drill straight. You dont have to go deep, just past the head is fine. Once you drill it I would try an internal or external extractor and if that wont break it off then hammer and chisel it.
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Old 06-18-2006, 11:37 PM   #46
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Hmm... looks like I'm gonna have to grab a pretty big bit then... these cam gear bolts are beefy. Oh of course... and a REAL drill.
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Old 06-19-2006, 12:42 AM   #47
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i just had a hell of a time taking those gears off, i ended up having to weld directly to the bolts because they stripped out. it was a mess but atleast nothing was damaged besides those two bolts. there really isn't any sure fire way to do this.

Eric
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Old 06-19-2006, 12:52 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejsportcom
i just had a hell of a time taking those gears off, i ended up having to weld directly to the bolts because they stripped out. it was a mess but atleast nothing was damaged besides those two bolts. there really isn't any sure fire way to do this.

Eric
Hey man... I'm in New Mil... you think you can weld onto my last bolt????????? I would freakin appreciate it..
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Old 06-19-2006, 02:09 AM   #49
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yea and then fly out to AZ and do mine LoL haha yeah i`am stuck I need to find a local welder and get a good socket and trq bar

Yeah i doubt there is a perfect way to avoid this, beside removing the motor and breaking those bolts loose and re trq them, Cuz on left side of the motor those 2 bolts where not super tight, I had a Cyl on that side replaced so that head came off about 2,500 miles ago... then the other to where super tight, a breaker bar broke the metal cam sprocket bolt lose, but on the exhaust sprocket it was just to tight to get loose

Last edited by STi_Guy04; 06-19-2006 at 02:16 AM.
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Old 06-19-2006, 05:47 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InfamousDX
PS... what do you do when the inside of the bolt is rounded out? ****
Drill it out, slow drill speed as the bolts are hard and drill it fast and the drill goes blunt and bolt work hardens, once you drill it enough the head falls off, the threaded part screws out with fingers.

They are tight due to the surface area of the flange.

One other way is while the belt is on still, put a spaner to hold the tensioner out to keep tension on the belt and slow heavy force helps, also used "ring /ring" spaner off the crank/flywheel bolt to the bell housing to hold the engine from turning.

I like the belt around one pully at a time idea!
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