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Old 06-19-2006, 11:24 AM   #51
InfamousDX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSR
Drill it out, slow drill speed as the bolts are hard and drill it fast and the drill goes blunt and bolt work hardens, once you drill it enough the head falls off, the threaded part screws out with fingers.

They are tight due to the surface area of the flange.
Will one of those DeWalt cordless drills work or do I need something high powered?
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Old 06-19-2006, 06:15 PM   #52
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I never had any luck with rattle guns, even the bigggest snapon battery gun doesn't even look at it, you need some big bars and allen key arangement.
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Old 06-19-2006, 09:10 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSR
I never had any luck with rattle guns, even the bigggest snapon battery gun doesn't even look at it, you need some big bars and allen key arangement.
and when all else fails, a welder....
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Old 06-19-2006, 09:14 PM   #54
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I think drilling the head off is easier, even with welding something to it, it's still tight!
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Old 06-19-2006, 09:27 PM   #55
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i guess it all depends on your situation, i had it set up like crawford had shown and it would not slip at all, plus i used the turbo bracket to hold the crank in place, then i welded a hammer to it (yes i know its a** backwards), and i put a 3ft pipe on the end of that and it came right off. its funny cause i don't have any good drill bits so when i tryed drilling it i ended up giving up after breaking like four bits. plus welding is more fun

Eric
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Old 08-24-2006, 04:43 PM   #56
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http://www.cobbtuning.com/pr-cam-wrench.html

We do not have a cam gear tool currently for the AVCS gears, but hopefully in the near to distant future. Having the correct tools really help the job go alot faster.

- J.
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Old 08-24-2006, 05:11 PM   #57
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go to your local home depot and get one of these .. they work great for removing the rounded out cam bolts...

http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...IrwinCat100511
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Old 01-04-2007, 09:08 PM   #58
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Well hell!!! I got them off, but now Im having a hard time getting the intake cams to line up with the cam gears? Any ideas?
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Old 01-21-2007, 11:07 PM   #59
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I tried this tonight. Got the two on the drivers side loose but one of the psg side is starting to strip out inside. I stopped before it got too bad (may still be salvageable. I am thinking of trying to source an 11mm allen and hammer it in there and try again. Do you think drilling would be easier/safer/better?

On a side note... I only read after I turned one cam pully about a 1/4 turn that you are not supposed to do this. Does this gurantee me that I will have bent valves?
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Old 01-22-2007, 09:06 AM   #60
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2 post up .... it works
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Old 01-22-2007, 12:04 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thejean View Post
I tried this tonight. Got the two on the drivers side loose but one of the psg side is starting to strip out inside. I stopped before it got too bad (may still be salvageable. I am thinking of trying to source an 11mm allen and hammer it in there and try again. Do you think drilling would be easier/safer/better?

On a side note... I only read after I turned one cam pully about a 1/4 turn that you are not supposed to do this. Does this gurantee me that I will have bent valves?
the valves close by default and the spring holding them closed is pretty strong so unless you're putting a lot of force behind turning the cam gears chances are the valves arent opening. if the gears are still on the timing belt and its slippingi then watch out though...
if your allen key is stripping you might want to think about using a bolt out kit or even cutting a notch across the head and trying to use some sort of flat head screwdriver if you can find a way to put a lot of torque on it.

i had no trouble getting these off myself, i cant understand what all this 900 ft. lb. air gun talk is all about. i had a 2 foot breaker bar or so and put a bit of weight onto it and i was finished all 4 in just a few minutes. i got 3 of them to break loose just be leaving the timing belt on, but the last one skipped teeth when i tried so i stopped that quickly and pulled it off a different way.
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Old 01-22-2007, 12:20 PM   #62
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Two of my three came off super easy. One started to strip and I haven't tried the fourth yet.

Sounds like I haven't bent any valves though... phew! ***wipes forehead***
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Old 04-10-2007, 02:41 PM   #63
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i tried the timing belt and vise grip around the crank and cam idea. it sliped. then i had an idea why not clamp the belt tight around the cam gear with another vise grip. it worked flawlessly. i think this will work on the tightest cam gears. thats just my opinion. i would post picture but dont no how. sorry
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Old 04-10-2007, 04:18 PM   #64
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I hate subaru cam gears...I personally have always wrapped the belt and used a big breaker bar as I rarely see an impact get the job done...lack of cfm if you ask me...

anyhow, sometimes they break, sometimes they strip...just luck of the draw
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Old 04-10-2007, 04:19 PM   #65
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I ended up griding down the cam bolt and pounding a socket over it. That worked but man, I thought I was hooped for a bit there. Easy outs did not work at all, they just snapped like twigs.
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Old 04-14-2007, 01:56 PM   #66
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Seeing as I just had a timing belt change (less than 2k miles) and would like to try and reuse it, I'm going to admit defeat and break down and buy the cobb tool...

unless it is absolutely necessary to change the timing belt when I do a shortblock swap? It's a 2.0L-->2.5L swap wiht WRX heads.

-JT
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Old 04-14-2007, 01:58 PM   #67
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you won't need the cam gear tool as you won't be removing your cam gears...unless you are doing cams...
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Old 04-14-2007, 02:51 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wigglesxjr View Post
Seeing as I just had a timing belt change (less than 2k miles) and would like to try and reuse it, I'm going to admit defeat and break down and buy the cobb tool...

unless it is absolutely necessary to change the timing belt when I do a shortblock swap? It's a 2.0L-->2.5L swap wiht WRX heads.

-JT

Quote:
Originally Posted by Homemade WRX View Post
you won't need the cam gear tool as you won't be removing your cam gears...unless you are doing cams...
The way I read his post was he is swapping blocks so the cams WILL need to come out to remove the head bolts.

But the timing belt should be fine to reuse with 2k on it.
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Old 04-14-2007, 02:55 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by kaos200 View Post
The way I read his post was he is swapping blocks so the cams WILL need to come out to remove the head bolts.

But the timing belt should be fine to reuse with 2k on it.
Yeah,I'm going to have to take off the heads, and the way I interpreted the service manual, the cam sprockets need to come off to gain access to the head bolts. bummer .

-JT
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Old 04-14-2007, 04:09 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaos200 View Post
The way I read his post was he is swapping blocks so the cams WILL need to come out to remove the head bolts.

But the timing belt should be fine to reuse with 2k on it.
yup...missed that little bit on the 2.0->2.5
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Old 04-16-2007, 10:40 PM   #71
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i pulled my engine apart last year and i had this problem with the cam bolts. whoever has a motor where the bolts come off easy is lucky. somebody must have fallen asleep at the assembly line then. i got 3 out of 4 off with much effort. the third i had to drill out cause it stripped. i went through like 10 drill bits and half a day later the head of the fourth finally came off. for the first three i used two flywheel bolt installed in the crank with a wrench the was long enough to jam against the back of the block (the material of the block that surrounds the flywheel). i left the timing belt on and took up all the clearance on the timing belt guides. then i used a 3 foot breaker bar (3/4" drive w/ a matco reducer) and a 1/2" drive 10mm socket w/ piece of 10mm allen key cut off short enough to go into the socket and the allen bolt. it worked but i wish i had the real allen driver at the time. i bought 4 new bolts just to be sure and the correct allen driver (matco 10mm allen driver) for reinstall.
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Old 06-06-2007, 08:54 AM   #72
mddrum
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It is time to replace the timing belt on my 2000 Outback wagon (110Kmi). I've had dealers quote $540 to $1200. Reading the chat, I get it's not easy. Have no knowledge with which to judge the estimates. Recommendations?
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Old 06-06-2007, 09:11 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Homemade WRX View Post
I hate subaru cam gears...I personally have always wrapped the belt and used a big breaker bar as I rarely see an impact get the job done...lack of cfm if you ask me...

anyhow, sometimes they break, sometimes they strip...just luck of the draw
agreed, The last time I did my cam gears it wasn't that bad, but I was obviously more experienced the second-third time around.

big breaker bar, make sure to not turn on an angle to avoid stripping, loosen them all before taking the belt completely off.
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Old 06-06-2007, 02:22 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mddrum View Post
It is time to replace the timing belt on my 2000 Outback wagon (110Kmi). I've had dealers quote $540 to $1200. Reading the chat, I get it's not easy. Have no knowledge with which to judge the estimates. Recommendations?

you dont have to take the cam gears off to change the timing belt, only to take apart the motor. the timing belt i imagine wouldnt be that hard while in the car. probably just time consuming because of the extent of things that have to be taken off. i did a new one with the new motor but it was on the bench so probably much easier.
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Old 08-09-2007, 11:37 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by CK02WRX View Post
You can't use the 1 1/8 wrench on an STI. I did it this way. I put two of the flywheel bolts in and used a wrench between them that was long enough to touch the engine stand mounts. That way the crank bolt doesn't tighten and you can use both hands to loosen the cam gear bolts. It also makes it a one person job instead of 2+ like others have needed. I also found out that the Snap-on 10mm 1/2" drive hex socket was very strong and would not break like craftsman and several other that I broke. It lists of $20 but its worth it because you break several $10 sockets and never get one bolt loose.
I fully endorse this method but I would suggest leaving the other pulleys/guides in place. With them in place the angle is such that more of the gear teath and timing belt are engaged making it less likey to slip.
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