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Old 08-10-2007, 12:50 AM   #76
Homemade WRX
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not only that but I've done that and started to turn the crank over...bolt wasn't giving and motor was starting to spin
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Old 08-10-2007, 02:29 AM   #77
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ok i havent read the whole thread and someone might have already said it but this is the way that works for me. works well when your alone.

i had my pry bar in the flywheel from when i took the crank pulley off but i dont think its needed. unless you rig it up like ck02wrx did.



first dont use a craftsman 10mm hex socket for removal.



i use a 10mm allen and wrench together.

this was just a pic showing what i use to remove the bolts i took the timing belt off and used an old 1 as shown in the lower pics.


2 pairs of vice grips and 1 old timing belt





carefully use the allen and wrench and it'll come right off w/out stripping or breaking anything.

edit, i also turn the crank and cams so if i do slip the belt (i havent yet) it doesnt turn the valves into the pistons
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Old 01-09-2008, 08:01 PM   #78
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+1 for the Visegrip, old belt, and breaker bar method this thread saves lives!

Got all 4 off in 10min.

Yay!
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Old 02-14-2008, 07:10 PM   #79
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I wish i found this thread 4 weeks ago. I still cant get my cam pulleys off. Now i cant get one of my cams out because both bolts holding down the cam bridge are stripped. Last night i tried using Craftsman Bolt-Outs and all that does is chews up the bolt head. Any ideas?
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Old 02-16-2008, 01:01 PM   #80
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Originally Posted by NFJ79 View Post
I wish i found this thread 4 weeks ago. I still cant get my cam pulleys off. Now i cant get one of my cams out because both bolts holding down the cam bridge are stripped. Last night i tried using Craftsman Bolt-Outs and all that does is chews up the bolt head. Any ideas?
Drill em out.
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Old 02-16-2008, 02:34 PM   #81
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Originally Posted by thejean View Post
Drill em out.
Agreed, once its all chewed up all you can do is drill it out.

It totally sucks too.
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Old 02-18-2008, 01:25 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombiedog View Post
Agreed, once its all chewed up all you can do is drill it out.

It totally sucks too.
Or, weld on a new nut onto the stripped one to bite onto. also a very last resort
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Old 02-18-2008, 11:46 PM   #83
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First way is the easiest and the backup is last resort. First off I do these unfortunately about once every other week so here it goes. Without the crappy AVCS subaru tool or the break some coners of my plastic gear please wrench I just take my 2 foot chain wrench and a piece of timing belt that goes around the circumference of the gear, throw the chain wrench on it, twist the engine in the engine stand to lock the wrench against the lower engine stand support. Then I take my 1/2" 10mm snap-on socket and 24 inch breaker bar, now this step is IMPORTANT take the socket stick it in the head of the bolt and strike it multiple times with a large hammer (not mini-sledge but close). Take valve grinding compound and put it on the socket and ensure an interference fit in the bolt head(this has prevented a single strip out of these hatefull bolts which have measured usually about 380 ft lbs. breakaway torque!) and begin to loosen. If it doesn't come out the first time hit it again with the hammer. Also try hitting the socket and wrench while trying to break it lose and yes even at the dealership we still sometimes need three guys to break it lose. Usually this works, aso hitting it with the hammer and a lm5000 snap-on impact 90% pulls them lose! The key to success here no matter which method is the hammer and valve grinding compound. Now if you totally destroyed the bolt you can either torch it or I just MIG weld an old axle nut to it, hit it with a 32mm socket and impact and bam done. Never found the need to torch it since it'll kill the insides of the AVCS cams however it works for 2.0l engines w/o AVCS. I have multiple AVCS gears appart, they use plastic sprung wipers inside x3 to form the piston seals for the hydraulic mechanism to rotate the gear surface in the desired direction.

Hope this helps.

Matt G.
Subaru/ASE Certified Technician
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Old 02-19-2008, 10:33 AM   #84
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**Borat** Very NIIZEEE!
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Old 04-17-2008, 04:31 PM   #85
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Drilled mine out, saved a lot of time.

Nick
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Old 04-17-2008, 04:40 PM   #86
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I used a set craftsman bolt extractors after snaping 4 sockets like toothpicks..

I spent all of two mins with the bolt extractors taking them out...
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Old 04-18-2008, 09:58 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt84 View Post
, now this step is IMPORTANT take the socket stick it in the head of the bolt and strike it multiple times with a large hammer (not mini-sledge but close). and begin to loosen. If it doesn't come out the first time hit it again with the hammer.Hope this helps.

Matt G.
Subaru/ASE Certified Technician

Guys, never hit the sprocket bolts with a hammer. You can easily damage the cylinder head and break the camshafts centering flanges.
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Old 04-18-2008, 11:49 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Element Tech View Post
Guys, never hit the sprocket bolts with a hammer. You can easily damage the cylinder head and break the camshafts centering flanges.


Seriously! This isn't a lug nut on a diesel truck! There's a cam back behind that bolt.
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Old 04-27-2008, 10:55 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Element Tech View Post
Guys, never hit the sprocket bolts with a hammer. You can easily damage the cylinder head and break the camshafts centering flanges.

If u didnt notice he is a subaru tech as am i and honestly u would have to hit it pretty hard with a big dead blow to do any damage to head/cam (but the plastic pulleys will shatter if u miss the bolt head lo)l. I do quite a few of these every month too and tried this on the first oone i ever hadc apart after not being able to break one loose with a very long breaker bar with pipe over it for more torque and 2 250lbs guys on breaker and 1 more holding motor. and afterf that didnt work i hit the head of the bolt with my hammer a couple times pretty hard and then tried again and broke it loose with no help.

oh and i have never damaged anything but shattering a plastic pulley before doing this so aimming is a good idea lol. with that said good luck everyone and if u r worried about doing this urself then seriously think about taking it to a dealership cause it sucks to have ur car outoforder because of something like this happening
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Old 05-22-2008, 11:37 AM   #90
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The best that I have found, besides drilling, is to put a breaker bar on the crank. Then you can use a 1/2" wratchet to remove the 10mm bolts. If you pull up, the sockets are less likely to break.

Nick
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Old 05-22-2008, 04:42 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by White out View Post
Drilled mine out, saved a lot of time.

Nick
same here, also no worries about stressing and breaking other parts.
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Old 05-23-2008, 03:25 AM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n2oiroc View Post
same here, also no worries about stressing and breaking other parts.
What did u drill with? If u're not perfectly in center, u might hit the cam or cam gear.

the top bolts have a hole in them so they are centered, but it's tough to get the bottom bolt started with a pilot hole right in the center.

I finally gave up and used an angle grinder and ground off 3 of the bolt heads... I ruined 3 of the cam gears but at least the camshaft and everything else wasn't damaged.
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Old 05-23-2008, 03:30 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by White out View Post
The best that I have found, besides drilling, is to put a breaker bar on the crank. Then you can use a 1/2" wratchet to remove the 10mm bolts. If you pull up, the sockets are less likely to break.

Nick
Please clarify. Put a breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt. Use 1/2" wracket to remove the 10mm cam gear bolts (using a 14mm hex head socket)?

And what do u mean by if u "pull up" the sockets are less likely to break?
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Old 07-21-2008, 10:52 PM   #94
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My mechanic told me during cam gear removal he broke one of the gears and stripped a bolt. How much do these gears go for?
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Old 08-02-2008, 03:17 PM   #95
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like 170 for acvs, 100 or so for non. IE Intake $$$$...exhaust $$....
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Old 08-22-2008, 11:53 PM   #96
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well I just managed to get 3 of 4 after using the 'hammer on the 10mm allen insert' method..but the 4th was tryed too hard before I read this thread

thanks matt84
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Old 08-23-2008, 01:55 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a6n6d6y View Post
well I just managed to get 3 of 4 after using the 'hammer on the 10mm allen insert' method..but the 4th was tryed too hard before I read this thread

thanks matt84

http://www.tylertool.com/ir39boexset..._source=nextag

these worked for me. that cap bolt has a perfect grip surface for these. those exhaust cams are WICKED tight.
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Old 08-23-2008, 11:35 PM   #98
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I am 63 the only time I have ever used a hammer was to tap pistons in with the handle. If you need a hammer on an aluminium motor you need to get a different occupation.
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Old 08-24-2008, 11:45 AM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt84 View Post
First way is the easiest and the backup is last resort. First off I do these unfortunately about once every other week so here it goes. Without the crappy AVCS subaru tool or the break some coners of my plastic gear please wrench I just take my 2 foot chain wrench and a piece of timing belt that goes around the circumference of the gear, throw the chain wrench on it, twist the engine in the engine stand to lock the wrench against the lower engine stand support. Then I take my 1/2" 10mm snap-on socket and 24 inch breaker bar, now this step is IMPORTANT take the socket stick it in the head of the bolt and strike it multiple times with a large hammer (not mini-sledge but close). Take valve grinding compound and put it on the socket and ensure an interference fit in the bolt head(this has prevented a single strip out of these hatefull bolts which have measured usually about 380 ft lbs. breakaway torque!) and begin to loosen. If it doesn't come out the first time hit it again with the hammer. Also try hitting the socket and wrench while trying to break it lose and yes even at the dealership we still sometimes need three guys to break it lose. Usually this works, aso hitting it with the hammer and a lm5000 snap-on impact 90% pulls them lose! The key to success here no matter which method is the hammer and valve grinding compound. Now if you totally destroyed the bolt you can either torch it or I just MIG weld an old axle nut to it, hit it with a 32mm socket and impact and bam done. Never found the need to torch it since it'll kill the insides of the AVCS cams however it works for 2.0l engines w/o AVCS. I have multiple AVCS gears appart, they use plastic sprung wipers inside x3 to form the piston seals for the hydraulic mechanism to rotate the gear surface in the desired direction.

Hope this helps.

Matt G.
Subaru/ASE Certified Technician

Quote:
Originally Posted by 97subGT View Post
If u didnt notice he is a subaru tech as am i and honestly u would have to hit it pretty hard with a big dead blow to do any damage to head/cam (but the plastic pulleys will shatter if u miss the bolt head lo)l. I do quite a few of these every month too and tried this on the first oone i ever hadc apart after not being able to break one loose with a very long breaker bar with pipe over it for more torque and 2 250lbs guys on breaker and 1 more holding motor. and afterf that didnt work i hit the head of the bolt with my hammer a couple times pretty hard and then tried again and broke it loose with no help.

oh and i have never damaged anything but shattering a plastic pulley before doing this so aimming is a good idea lol. with that said good luck everyone and if u r worried about doing this urself then seriously think about taking it to a dealership cause it sucks to have ur car outoforder because of something like this happening
Keep on hammering, just stay away from my motors.

Drilling the bolts is still the easiest way to remove them and you're less likely to damage anything.

Everyone is really over complicating things here and there is a lot of bad advice.
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Old 08-25-2008, 01:18 AM   #100
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One tip for a frozen bolt INSTEAD OF HAMMERING on a bolt that runs into a brittle camshaft....
get an impact gun and first run it into (tighten the bolt) the cam and then try backing it out...the heat seen by the came can cause the bolt to seat/seize (man my brain is dead right now) and you just need to knock it free.

I still use a breaker bar and/or impact...
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