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Old 09-30-2001, 12:32 AM   #1
t-bone
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Default ANy info about a Dead mans (kill) switch for WRX

OK..

Call me paranoid, but next week my new WRX will be a APS WRX and I am a little concerned about just having a alarm system on the car to keep it from getting stolen. These cars are gaining popularity (I expect it to get car of the year) and that won't go unnoticed. So, I could do Lojack but it is not offered in my area yet. I figure that the next best thing would be to install a hidden or inconspicious Kill switch in the car.

Has anyone looked in to this yet??? Has anyone done one yet??? any info would be great.
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Old 09-30-2001, 02:08 PM   #2
SammyDFG
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GET THE UNBREAKABLE AUTOLOCK
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Old 09-30-2001, 03:19 PM   #3
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Default yep

Wire a kill switch to the starter and hide it real well.

The only catch is that it has to be hidden yet very easy to get to... If it's too much of a pain you may find that you don't use it all the time.

Also keep in mind that anyone who rides with you might notice what you're doing.

Just some things to think about anyway...

I highly recommend doing it. Also functions as a nice carjacking deterrent too as long as you can turn the car off quick enough.

Cheers!

edit: BTW congrats on your APS upgrade. Neato!
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Old 09-30-2001, 04:27 PM   #4
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My alarm automatically kills the ignotion after I turn the car off, get out and shut the door. It's nice, automatic, and it works.

~Loki
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Old 09-30-2001, 10:47 PM   #5
Rocky WRX
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I had a '81 280ZX years ago. Its cruise control main power switch was designed like the one in the WRX, so it turns off CC power when you turn off the ignition, and you have to turn it on again the next time you start the car.

Anyway, I wired it to drive a relay that would power the fuel pump only when the cruise control was powered on. It was a simple habit to turn on the CC before starting the car, and it would automatically re-arm when I killed the ignition. No one would have ever figured it out, and the switch was right there on the dash!

This ought to be possible on the WRX.
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Old 09-30-2001, 10:53 PM   #6
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when me and my friend put my alarm system we mixed up the wires and ended up disabling the fuel pump instead of the starter you could put a switch to that and it would really confuse the theif cuz the engine will turn over but will not start since it does not get any fuel.
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Old 09-30-2001, 11:04 PM   #7
imprezadan
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Ther is/was a product on the market called "The Secret". It was a system that you wired up to an existing switch (ie-p-win, high beam flash, etc.). If you don't hit that switch the car doesn't start. It is better than a hidden switch, because the existing switches are easily accesable and hear impossible to figure out.
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Old 09-30-2001, 11:06 PM   #8
t-bone
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Hey Rocky WRX

Thats the thought that I had. I wanted to use a switch that would reset itself everytime you shut off the engine. My cousin had a pressure pad installed on his A pillar on his truck, he just had to touch that area of the A pillar for the truck to start.

I like your ideas eveyone, now its just figuring it out for the WRX
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Old 09-30-2001, 11:22 PM   #9
Rocky WRX
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t-bone,
I'd be happy to work up a schematic, parts list and some instructions. It shouldn't be too hard if you're handy with a soldering iron and a multimeter, and live near a Radio Shack.

Just keep me in mind when those gauge pods arrive.
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Old 10-01-2001, 08:20 AM   #10
SubaruStu
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Default Re: yep

Quote:
Originally posted by Rexwell
Wire a kill switch to the starter and hide it real well.

The other thing to do is not to hide it at all! A friend wired a kill
switch to a factory rocker switch location using a factory rocker
in his Lexus. It just looked like another light/accesory switch so
no one would ever know it was a kill switch. That way it is not
easily recognizable as a kill switch and very handy to get at.
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Old 10-01-2001, 02:37 PM   #11
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Two problems with just interupting the starter as a method for theft prevention. First, you can make the starter run with just one simple jumper wire hooked to the solonoid. Second, they can still push start it, if it is a 5-speed. I just installed my kill switch this weekend. I browsed through the wiring diagram and found the PERFECT wire to interupt. It is the ground to the electromagnet in the MAIN RELAY. This wire has almost no current going through it so you can use any kind of switch you want. It was originally just going straight to ground. I just cut that wire and ran it through my "switch". The MAIN RELAY supplies power to the fuel pump, computer, injectors, and the ignition system. My car is a "NO START" no matter what they try to do. Only a tow truck can steal my car now. I didn't use a switch though. I choose a different way to allow continuity to the relay. I will post some pictures of that later...
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Old 10-03-2001, 01:23 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by subarumantoo
The MAIN RELAY supplies power to the fuel pump, computer, injectors, and the ignition system. My car is a "NO START" no matter what they try to do.

Does this mean that you are unintentionally resetting the ECU whenever you use the kill switch?
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Old 10-03-2001, 05:44 PM   #13
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A friend of mine in europe had a really cool steering wheel on his M3 that would rotate freely unless you had a key that locked it to the hub. Unfortunately we can't change steering wheels as easily anymore, but at least the idea is pretty neat.

-anders
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Old 10-04-2001, 08:56 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by SilverSubi



Does this mean that you are unintentionally resetting the ECU whenever you use the kill switch?
No. The computer still has its memory circuit directly to the battery. The MAIN RELAY is switched power...
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Old 10-06-2001, 12:32 AM   #15
SilverSubi
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Quote:
Originally posted by subarumantoo


No. The computer still has its memory circuit directly to the battery. The MAIN RELAY is switched power...
ahh...thanks for clearing that up. Seems like a good way to go then.

Please post those pics you mentioned if you get a chance. I'm real interested in what you've done.

Also, I have no idea where this relay is located...exactly where is the wire you cut into?
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Old 10-06-2001, 10:45 PM   #16
Rocky WRX
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t-bone, check your pm.
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Old 11-20-2001, 12:12 AM   #17
Big Joe
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I want to give this thread a bump. BUMP!

Any info on how to wire a kill switch. Pics would be mucho appreicated.

joe
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Old 11-20-2001, 12:55 AM   #18
driggity
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Default

Quote:
Originally posted by subarumantoo
Two problems with just interupting the starter as a method for theft prevention. First, you can make the starter run with just one simple jumper wire hooked to the solonoid. Second, they can still push start it, if it is a 5-speed. I just installed my kill switch this weekend. I browsed through the wiring diagram and found the PERFECT wire to interupt. It is the ground to the electromagnet in the MAIN RELAY. This wire has almost no current going through it so you can use any kind of switch you want. It was originally just going straight to ground. I just cut that wire and ran it through my "switch". The MAIN RELAY supplies power to the fuel pump, computer, injectors, and the ignition system. My car is a "NO START" no matter what they try to do. Only a tow truck can steal my car now. I didn't use a switch though. I choose a different way to allow continuity to the relay. I will post some pictures of that later...
Damn, thats a really cool idea. I may have to consider that when I get a car worth stealing
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Old 11-20-2001, 11:04 AM   #19
Rocky WRX
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These instructions show how to wire a kill switch to your WRX. The kill switch is automatically armed when you remove the key from the ignition. It is disarmed by turning the key to ON, then pressing the Cruise Control button, then starting tha car. As described here, the fuel pump relay is disabled while the kill switch is armed. The Main Relay can also be disabled as an alternative, which has been suggested by others but not explored by me.

Disclaimer: While I have a BS in Electrical Engineering, and while I have done the research and believe these instructions are accurate, and while I have designed and installed several similar types of mechanisms in other cars, I have not actually installed this kill switch. I take no responsibility for mistakes in these instructions or installer's failure to follow them properly. I assume the installer has the basic skills to cut and solder wire, and to understand basic electrical concepts. I recommend the installer verify all voltages with a multimeter while completing this installation.

This photo shows the lower drivers side dash panel unscrewed, loosened and hanging down. The brown connector is the Cruise Control switch. There are two wires of interest. One is the Yellow/Green wire at pin 1 (visible in the front row on the right), and the other is a blue/red wire at pin 6, not visible in this shot, at the rear left of the same connector. These two wires power a lamp inside the switch that illuminates to indicate that Cruise Control is powered ON. Pin 1 is at about +12V relative to Pin 6, but neither is at ground potential, both being fed from the CC computer.

The strategy is to tap into these wires, and connect a relay coil across them that will be energized when Cruise Control is powered ON. When energized, the relay switch closes and allows the fuel pump relay (or main relay) to be energized. When Cruise Control is turned off, the relay coil is not energized, and the relay switch opens, preventing the fuel pump relay from powering the fuel pump.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg ccconnector.jpg (39.2 KB, 1475 views)
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Old 11-20-2001, 11:06 AM   #20
Rocky WRX
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This is a view of the right side of the front passenger footwell, looking up from below to the right of the glove box. There are two relay connectors visible, one brown and one green. The green connector is the fuel pump relay. The brown connector is the main relay. Both connectors have a black wire coming from them that connects to chassis ground somewhere else in the wiring harness. This is the wire in which the relay switch should be installed.

Parts List:
1. 12V SPDT relay. I suggest Radio Shack #275-241 which costs $3.99. This relay is very small and draws very little power. I'm not sure how much power the CC module can supply to energize the relay, so less power is better.
2. Rectifier diode, type 1N4001, Radio Shack #276-1101 or from a multipack #276-1653.
3. insulated wire - such as speaker wire. Will carry very low current, so heavy gauge is not required.
4. Electrical tape - to wrap all solder connections.

I describe what wires must be cut and/or tapped, but you are free to use any method of cutting and tapping you prefer. I usually solder connections and wrap them in vinyl electrical tape. You can physically install the relay at the CC connector, or at the fuel pump relay. Either way, you will need to run a pair of wires to the other location. I will not describe how to run the wire or where to locate the relay, I will only describe what wires to connect to which diode or relay leads.

You will need to tap the pin 1 and pin 6 wires of the CC connector, without cutting them. Carefully strip off enough insulation to solder a wire to them, and wrap the exposed soldered connections in electrical tape. Alternatively, you can use a vampire tap.

Cut the black wire of the fuel pump connector and strip the insulation from both ends of the cut wire. Solder a wire to each one and wrap the exposed soldered connections in electrical tape.

The diode is an important safety feature that will protect the Cruise Control circuitry from the voltage spike that will be induced by the relay coil, when the current through the coil is interrupted. This will happen every time the Cruise Control is powered down. The diode is shaped like a little barrel with a wire coming out of each end. One end of the barrel has a white stripe. This is the cathode wire. Attach the cathode wire to pin 1 of the CC connector, and the other diode lead to pin 6. You can attach the diode across the wires on the back of the CC connector, or on the relay across the relay coil leads as described below.

The relay will have several short leads. These may be difficult to connect solder to, so be patient and careful. Two leads are for the relay coil. Attach these leads to the CC connector pins 1 and 6, it does not matter which coil lead is attached to which CC connector pin. The diode leads DO matter, so be sure to wire them as described above.

The relay will have 3 leads associated with the relay switch: Common, NO (Normally Open) and NC (Normally Closed). Disregard the NC pin, we will not use it. Connect the other two pins (Common and NO) to the ends of the cut black wire from the fuel pump relay.

To start your car, you will need to turn your ignition switch to ON. Next, press the CC button so that it illuminates. Then engage the starter as usual. If you do not turn on the CC, the car will start, but will quickly die due to fuel starvation, and will not re-start.
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File Type: jpg fprelay.jpg (45.2 KB, 1981 views)
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Old 11-20-2001, 11:18 AM   #21
Mulder
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In my previous car I had an auxiliary carjack circuit that interfaced with the alarm, it used a hidden switch that had to be reset whenever the driver's door was opened. If it wasn't the car could be driven a short distance and the alarm would trigger, at the same time the fuel pump would cut out. The alarm could be reset only with the hidden switch, not even the remote would work. The interior alarm sirens made this even more effective, once the alarm was triggered it was almost impossible for a non-deaf person to remain in the car.
Eventually I do plan to install some or all of this stuff in my WRX once I figure out how to interface it to the factory alarm, or perhaps I can make it a separate system.
I do agree that the main relay is the best bet for disabling the car.
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Old 11-20-2001, 01:44 PM   #22
GoodFinder
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Thank you everybody for the dialog and pictures and contribution to this subject. The WRX is indeed a jewel to protect. What you have described here are some very cost effective approaches to this important topic.

GoodFinder
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Old 11-20-2001, 03:54 PM   #23
Imprezd
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Just take out the Main Engine Relay...
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Old 11-20-2001, 09:20 PM   #24
Big Joe
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Thanks Rocky for the post and pics. You rock!

joe
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Old 11-21-2001, 02:50 AM   #25
janikphoto
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I've mentioned this pocket before and this would be a perfect use for it! The 6 cylinder outback models have a special feature and I think it's called 'vdc'. There is a special din-sized pocket in this car below the radio which has the vdc button built into it. It's a button that looks completely stock and could be used for a cut-off switch. Since the button would be located close to your hand when taking in and out the ignition key, it would be simple to arm and disarm it as you use the key. Go to a dealer and look at the pocket in the ll bean outback if you want to see if it will work for you. The only draw back is that it probably costs a lot of $$$ since it's a genuine subaru part, but with this factory button, a relay and a little bit of wire and solder... You've got a kill switch hidden in plain sight!
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