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Old 09-30-2001, 01:33 AM   #1
the Dabbler
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Question Oil Return Line Next To Header Okay?

I'm planning on using a banjo bolt oil return fitting. I know this is controversial, but please put that aside for a moment, and consider my question:

The shortest and cleanest path to the oil pan for my return line seems to be between the header and the cross member. It's a tight fit, and I'm worried that the header will melt the rubber return hose.

I'm thinking maybe the header's heat shield will be enough to make this okay, but I don't have a good feel for exactly how hot the outside of the heat shield gets in relation to how much the rubber can withstand (it's a Goodyear ACALA hose, if there are any engineers out there with datasheets for that sort of thing).

Will this be okay? If not, the hose will have to take a much less direct path.

Thanks.
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Old 09-30-2001, 02:35 AM   #2
LVSUBARU
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I wouldn't risk it. Better safe than sorry!
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Old 09-30-2001, 02:52 AM   #3
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dont do it
and make the line stainless braid
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Old 09-30-2001, 03:19 AM   #4
the Dabbler
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Quote:
Originally posted by kaos200
dont do it
and make the line stainless braid
Stainless is nice, but I'm always afraid it will abrade through anything it touches. I've guess I've seen coated stainless.

But anyway, the Goodyear ACALA stuff is quite nice.
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Old 09-30-2001, 03:48 PM   #5
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Have you looked between the crossmember and the motor, just to the outside of the motor mount? it's a pretty good location and should be out of harm's way.

And actualy, if it was hanging down that low, I'd suggest braided stainless as well.
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Old 09-30-2001, 05:10 PM   #6
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yeah if you are going to hang it that low go with braided stainless steel. I'd be worried about road debris as well as exhaust heat possibly taking out the hose.
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Old 09-30-2001, 10:35 PM   #7
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Thanks for the replies, everyone.

8, I'll see if the spot you suggest looks better.
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Old 10-01-2001, 01:05 PM   #8
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I really dislike my steel braided return line and would much rather go with something else. I also run right next to the exhaust manifold as I'm sure most people do. What kind of line are you going with that's not steel braided and where can I get about 2 feet?

Chad
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Old 10-01-2001, 05:19 PM   #9
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oh, don't use a banjo bolt either. Do it right and weld a fitting to the top of the pan.
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Old 10-01-2001, 06:31 PM   #10
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I couldn't find a better spot (I'm not sure I understand where you were suggesting, 8 -- do you have a picture?). So for now, anyway, I routed it between the crossmember and the header.

I wrapped the hose in some header wrap. Hopefully this, along with the heat shield, will be sufficient to prevent any damage.

The hose itself is Goodyear ACALA. I've been trying to get more data on it, but the Goodyear hose site has been down lately.

Re the banjo bolt: Like I said, I know this is controversial.

Last edited by the Dabbler; 10-01-2001 at 06:41 PM.
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Old 10-01-2001, 06:43 PM   #11
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Ryan - I'll see if I can get a better shot of it for you when I get to work on my car in the air (hopefully tomaro). Thinking back to it, though, I think no matter what if you're going banjo bolt then you're going to have to go by the header there. The one thing that was supposed to be bad about banjo, just FYI, was that supposedly it didn't flow to well since it was below the level of oil in the pan.
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Old 10-01-2001, 07:07 PM   #12
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Thanks, Nick,

If you're already going to be under there, then a pic would be appreciated.

I do remember a thread a while back with quite a bit of banjo-bolt vs welded fitting discussion (mainly anti-banjo-bolt -- maybe that camp was just more vocal).

Since then, I've talked to some people that have had good luck with it. Also, I got it from ISR, and Ed, who by all accounts knows his stuff, thought it would be fine.

So I guess I'm saying I'm convinced enough to give it a shot. The routing worried me enough for me to post here, but I have a better feeling now with the header wrap in there.
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Old 10-01-2001, 10:32 PM   #13
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I am guessing you are using a Legacy turbo header and up-pipe - I have the braided line with banjo bolt fitting return from iSR on my car with the Legacy downpipe, and the line runs down right beside that up-pipe (there is heat shield on the up-pipe) and it works just fine.
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Old 10-02-2001, 02:51 AM   #14
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blaster:

Actually, it's non-factory piping mating to the stock header.

I've pretty much convinced myself that the stock header's heat shield, plus the header wrap I have around the hose, will prevent any damage.

Thanks for posting -- I was trying to remember who was using the banjo-bolt arrangement. No problems, right?
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Old 10-02-2001, 03:29 AM   #15
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you need a good gravity feed and a banjo bolt is restriction in the line, i am TOTALLY agaist is, you'd be better off drilling and tapping a fitting into teh pan ans sealing it w/ JB weld

Jeremy
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Old 10-02-2001, 03:36 AM   #16
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I knew this would happen if I mentioned "banjo-bolt"...

Yes, there are some people that are dead-set against it. And they have their reasons. I respect those opinions.

There are also people who use them successfully. I respect that, too.

Personally, I am willing to try it. In the 3 miles I have driven so far (see other post), it seems fine.
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Old 10-02-2001, 03:56 AM   #17
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i should really learn to type or spell or SOMETHING!!! sorry for making you guys read these posts with my horrid spelling and typing
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Old 10-02-2001, 08:27 AM   #18
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Default What kind of fitting?

I too am anti-banjo bolt. But my question is, what kind of fitting should I weld into the top of my pan?
Mike
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Old 10-02-2001, 01:04 PM   #19
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mike well if you want to use rubber hose then just a barbed 1/2" fitting but if you want to get the largest threaded fitting you can get from like Russel I don't remember how the fittign sizes go but ideallly you want the largest ID hose so that the oil free flows w/ gravity.

Jeremy
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Old 10-03-2001, 12:03 PM   #20
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If you are going to use an A/N fitting, get a #10 or #12.

check www.freyracing.com, and give them a call.

For a #12 Earls weld fitting, the part number is 967112 or 967110 for a #10. You would also want a 45 degree or straight fitting to bolt onto that which the straight in a #12 is 800112. I bought this one originally, but will replace it with a 45 degree possibly in the near future. For the line, you'll need about 2' of #12 (or #10) which is 400120.

As for connecting the line to the turbo, I don't know what you'll need. Mine is a slip fitting.

Chad
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