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Old 10-08-2012, 04:39 PM   #2476
tuskenraider
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With open front and rear diffs, yes, fruitless. I'm sure the car would be fun, but not competitive.
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:33 PM   #2477
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuskenraider View Post
With open front and rear diffs, yes, fruitless. I'm sure the car would be fun, but not competitive.
So, back full circle to an STI for STU. Are the new cars (specifically '11+) a better platform than the '07 & prior cars? Are the Evos inherently quicker?

I've had 2 of each, but all were SM/SP trim other than my '05 STi that I left box-stock after buying new back then--so never had one in STU trim.

Looking for the right car for the class for Lincoln. My SM GT-R experiment went horribly wrong up there, as my setup was geared for point & shoot--but I got shot instead w/ my 3600# lead sled
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Old 10-09-2012, 10:03 AM   #2478
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTB/ZR-1 View Post
So, back full circle to an STI for STU. Are the new cars (specifically '11+) a better platform than the '07 & prior cars? Are the Evos inherently quicker?

I've had 2 of each, but all were SM/SP trim other than my '05 STi that I left box-stock after buying new back then--so never had one in STU trim.

Looking for the right car for the class for Lincoln. My SM GT-R experiment went horribly wrong up there, as my setup was geared for point & shoot--but I got shot instead w/ my 3600# lead sled
There was a recent thread about how competitive the newer STI's could be:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2405375

General consensus is that the new platform could be just as fast or faster, but no one's really fully developed one. I think the biggest issue is the motors - most (if not all) '08+ STI's I know that are/were autocrossed regularly end up popping motors.
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Old 10-09-2012, 10:16 AM   #2479
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTB/ZR-1
So, back full circle to an STI for STU. Are the new cars (specifically '11+) a better platform than the '07 & prior cars? Are the Evos inherently quicker?
I'm not aware of anyone that's fully prepped a GR/GV chassis car ('08+), but mine is a work in progress. I'm encouraged by the results so far, but I won't truly have an idea of where it's at until I make a Tour or Nats.

Fully prepped target weight seems similar for both older ('04-'07) and newer cars, despite the heavier stock weight of the '08+, and the newer rear suspension design should prove advantageous. As with all '07+ cars, the newer chassis enjoys better gearing than those previous.

IMO, the Evo is still the better car overall, with better power potential and much better steering ratio.
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Old 10-09-2012, 12:58 PM   #2480
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Can the power steering still be an issue on newer cars? I experienced PS loss in some slaloms. Great info guys, thank you...
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Old 10-09-2012, 01:15 PM   #2481
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTB/ZR-1 View Post
Can the power steering still be an issue on newer cars? I experienced PS loss in some slaloms. Great info guys, thank you...
Yes. I had the issue on my car even after swapping to a newer pump. The end fix was using better fluid and putting a little cooler on it. I did both at the same time so the fluid alone might have fixed it. What it felt like before was cavitation in the pump.
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Old 10-09-2012, 03:35 PM   #2482
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Originally Posted by em99sport View Post
I'm not aware of anyone that's fully prepped a GR/GV chassis car ('08+), but mine is a work in progress. I'm encouraged by the results so far, but I won't truly have an idea of where it's at until I make a Tour or Nats. .
Do you need a co-driver? Lol I'd really like to try before I buy, but nobody in Central FL is running one.

Popping motors? I'd imagine SNA would tell one to go piss up a rope if brought in for warranty repair if any mods (or evidence of them) are present.
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Old 10-09-2012, 06:24 PM   #2483
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTB/ZR-1 View Post
Do you need a co-driver?
I'm avoiding the co-driver thing because of the whole engine popping concern mentioned above.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GTB/ZR-1 View Post
Popping motors? I'd imagine SNA would tell one to go piss up a rope if brought in for warranty repair if any mods (or evidence of them) are present.
Indeed. That's why I'm still rocking stock power for now.
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Old 10-10-2012, 02:35 PM   #2484
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For the 08+ engine popping issues, the new ST rules allow for changes to the oil pan/pickups/etc. that I think will help out with that issue to a certain degree. Don't remember all of the details though.
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Old 10-10-2012, 03:18 PM   #2485
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Information I Read on Another Forum
According to Subaru, hitting the rev limiter causes the ECU to cut fuel, because #4 is last in line it gets starved in the process and causes underfuel/lean/heat/detonation that makes the piston fail. (regarding the 08+ STi ringland problems)
This is what I have read to be the problem... if this is the case couldn't this be taken care of (ST legally) with tuning? This is just what I have read though.. I have no real insight into it.
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Old 10-10-2012, 03:55 PM   #2486
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yazel

This is what I have read to be the problem... if this is the case couldn't this be taken care of (ST legally) with tuning? This is just what I have read though.. I have no real insight into it.
The real issue is that the newer 07+ STI's seem to have weaker pistons from the factory. The newer factory tunes are also leaner. However, people are still cracking ringlands left and right even on tuned cars. The only real fix (at least for *SP) is a custom set of CP or Crawford pistons. A good AOS will also help quite a bit too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by piknockout
For the 08+ engine popping issues, the new ST rules allow for changes to the oil pan/pickups/etc. that I think will help out with that issue to a certain degree. Don't remember all of the details though.
A larger oil pan will only help with oil starvation under hard cornering, which if occurred, would typically cause a spun bearing.
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Old 10-10-2012, 04:18 PM   #2487
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Originally Posted by Acejam2k View Post
The real issue is that the newer 07+ STI's seem to have weaker pistons from the factory. The newer factory tunes are also leaner. However, people are still cracking ringlands left and right even on tuned cars. The only real fix (at least for *SP) is a custom set of CP or Crawford pistons. A good AOS will also help quite a bit too.
Interesting, in my light reading on the subject I didn't come across that. (have barely looked into it) Makes sense though. Lame.
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Old 10-10-2012, 05:37 PM   #2488
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Always nice to know I'm living on the edge with my 07...
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Old 10-10-2012, 06:55 PM   #2489
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Acejam2k View Post
A good AOS will also help quite a bit too.
Why is that?

Any recommended units? Crawford?
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Old 10-11-2012, 01:03 AM   #2490
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Originally Posted by BeBop86 View Post

Any recommended units? Crawford?
The crawford is illegal because it removes the PCV.

I have heard bad things about the grimspeed style and high g corners...
I am still looking for another option other than just catch cans
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Old 10-11-2012, 02:42 AM   #2491
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeBop86

Why is that?

Any recommended units? Crawford?
An AOS is recommended because these cars emit blow-by, even in stock form. You can take a bone-stock STI with 20 miles on it off the showroom floor, take off the TMIC, and you'll find a nice coating of oil on the inside of the TMIC and the intake manifold.

An AOS will help filter out this oil and remove it from any breather lines. Simply put, this will allow for a cleaner intake stream, raise any previously reduced octane levels, and result in less detonation/knock. Detonation from blow-by and other factors is what causes these weaker pistons to crack ringlands.

Quote:
Originally Posted by silverhks

The crawford is illegal because it removes the PCV.

I have heard bad things about the grimspeed style and high g corners...
I am still looking for another option other than just catch cans
Yes, the Crawford is not kosher for *ST. Luckily I can run one in *SP though.

The Grimmspeed unit is flawed. It replaces the oil cap. Under hard cornering, oil comes up the filler neck. The Grimmspeed cap literally ingests this oil and becomes overwhelmed, and it takes the path of least resistance - which is the turbo inlet return line. This causes knock, and makes things even worse. I believe Grimmspeed has even admitted to this fault somewhere on these boards.

I've heard good things about the Moroso AOS/CC setup. It retains the stock PCV.
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Old 10-11-2012, 08:29 AM   #2492
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lots of non-STU discussion going on!! Yaz take us back on topic! How did the local autoX season end up there?
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Old 10-11-2012, 10:22 AM   #2493
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lots of non-STU discussion going on!! Yaz take us back on topic! How did the local autoX season end up there?
I took home the win yo! (in STU and overall) And thankfully I have a good codriver like abrumlev or I would have ran out of tire WAY before the end of the season and given up on trying to win our local points championship. I think I won STU for the year in Indy as well. Fixedperchstrutsftw

Well after a year of help from TiC and seeing what we could do with a car in an ST class running a fairly priced fixed perch strut setup (win multiple regions championships, trophy at a national event (3rd at the Peru Tour against some STU ballers), and take lots of top PAX finishes) I'm happy with it. Another highlight was coming in just barely behind Andrew P. (on PAX) in Bill's STX BRZ at the Subaru Challenge. That was a great day! I've been offered some cool co-drives recently and just can't seem to accept them with the choice of my car still being around.. it is so damn fun. Pretty glad I have such good friends down at TiC.

Last edited by yazel; 10-11-2012 at 03:06 PM. Reason: had more to say :lol:
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Old 10-11-2012, 05:07 PM   #2494
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Nothing is wrong with Fixed Perch struts. Its all about how you tune them and balance the car. I have to say though, I havent seen many people do that lately, so congrats sir.

Has anyone tried putting the DCCD in manual (not full Lock) in conditions other than rain? Would this help with predictability? I never tried it in any STi but always wondered. I assume this will put more wear on the the tran since no one does it. I bring this up because in RWD cars you can steer the car with the rear so in theory wouldnt the understeer be better handled it the Diff was set to more rear bias.
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Old 10-11-2012, 05:42 PM   #2495
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Has anyone tried putting the DCCD in manual (not full Lock) in conditions other than rain? Would this help with predictability? I never tried it in any STi but always wondered. I assume this will put more wear on the the tran since no one does it. I bring this up because in RWD cars you can steer the car with the rear so in theory wouldnt the understeer be better handled it the Diff was set to more rear bias.
This year when Brian (bassicfun) and I were at the TNT Mike Junior and Strano had a few days before the Peru Tour I tried multiple runs with the DCCD all the way back and maybe 1 or 2 turns up from the back. (this was in the dry) The time differences were negligible to say the least. The car never felt better or much worse in my case, but I definitely preferred the auto setting from a driving stand point. There wasn't a lot of noticeable change other than I hated the front wheels not helping pull the car out of the corner as much as they usually would. No oversteer/dorifto action.
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Old 10-12-2012, 05:01 PM   #2496
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I think you may need to adjust your understanding of how the center diff works in the STI. The diff control only adjusts the center diff from open to locked. It cannot do torque vectoring from front bias to rear bias. When the knob is pushed forward, the diff is locked. When the knob is pulled back, the diff is open. This is easily verified by driving in a tight circle and adjusting the diff. When it is open, the car rolls smoothly. When it is locked, the drivetrain binds up badly and will start skipping the inside tire on the ground due to the additional rotation of the front wheels being sent to the rear.

Basically, if you set the knob all the way back (or down on the instrument cluster), you will get far more front wheelspin when on throttle and better turn in when off throttle. The automatic setting will tighten up the center diff with hard throttle application to allow the rear wheels to dig in and propel the car, and it will loosen the diff when off-throttle to reduce drivetrain bind and allow the front wheels to bite better on corner entry.
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Old 10-12-2012, 05:28 PM   #2497
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Basically, if you set the knob all the way back (or down on the instrument cluster), you will get far more front wheelspin when on throttle and better turn in when off throttle.
Which is basically exactly what I was describing. The front wheels were not helping all that much exiting the corner on throttle. Me no likey.
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Old 10-15-2012, 01:05 PM   #2498
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I signed up for Blytheville. PAX is pretty unfriendly to STU cars on concrete/high grip surfaces, but it still looks like a fun event to do
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Old 10-15-2012, 01:50 PM   #2499
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Need a co-driver John?
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Old 10-15-2012, 02:39 PM   #2500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piknockout
Need a co-driver John?
co- driver? Im in..
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