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Old 02-11-2006, 03:18 AM   #1
kcook
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Default UTEC hitting target boost , feels slow

BUMP.. different situation

Last night i was hitting target boost. im just base map stg2. and now im not

today around 2ish , wot ... ~ 14-15 psi... i checked all lines and what not

the abc is opened 3 full turns
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Last edited by kcook; 03-29-2006 at 05:48 PM.
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Old 02-11-2006, 03:51 AM   #2
Gethin
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The basemaps are just that. A starting point. You need to first tune the boost map so you are hitting all of your targets, not just 16.5. Then you need to tune the fuel table, as it's rich for safety. TurboXS has the fuel map "tuned" for 93 but it's usually super rich so you need to tune that with a windeband 02 setup like the LM1, Zeitronix, TurboXS Tuner etc etc. (as an example, I run 94 but after around 4000 RPM on the stage 2 basemap my car ran under 10.0:1 AFR - off the scale in richness, not good) then you need to work on the timing. All this needs to be done in small steps, while data logging and keeping your eyes on knock, EGTs and AFR.

The UTEC cannot clear CEL's that are stored in the stock ECU. It can only supress the CEL light from appearing, they are still stored for analysis in the stock ECU if the stock ECU detects a malfunction. Bewarned if you supress the CEL light with the UTEC then you wont see any CEL's at all...so you could be grenading your motor unbeknown to you......

The Accessport is not very good at reading codes either, it has some false readings....you need a proper OBD2 reader to read and clear the stored CEL. Why are you getting a CEL anyway? The UTEC blink the CEL if it detects knock, then with v5 of the firmware it will retard the timing up to whatever you have set the constant parameters to. This will stay in effect until the UTEC is powered down, then it will revert to the old timing map. This is to prevent you from trying to "drive through" a knock event and destroy your engine during a tuning session. If you have a CEL light on, then it's something the stock ECU has picked up, you need to get it pulled with a proper OBD2 code scanner to see what's causing it.

Hope this helps! Read the UTEC manual 10 times before trying baby steps.
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Old 02-11-2006, 03:57 AM   #3
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what about the ABC?
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Old 02-11-2006, 03:59 AM   #4
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Start with the ABC closed. Tune your boost map, and if you find that you are still not hitting your targets, then you can open the ABC one turn, then datalog again to see where your boost is at. Some cars require it to be opened one, two or even three turns, some others dont need it at all.
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Old 02-11-2006, 11:04 AM   #5
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i forgot to mention that i had problems trying to update the software version. the connection to utec through hyperterminal worked great but it could not detect the utec whatsoever through turboxs' update program.
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Old 02-11-2006, 01:53 PM   #6
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you newbs!!!! GAWD!$# get the 5.0 firmware on there and then ask for help in Mid-A.
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Old 02-11-2006, 02:27 PM   #7
Gethin
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^^^^ got anything constructive to add to the post?
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Old 02-11-2006, 02:49 PM   #8
kcook
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hey gethin, so do i need to update my software?? we were having difficulties with that. i also dont have the abc currently, ill have it by the end of today tho. whats abc stand for any how.. i know its like ......... boost controller

btw i know aaron wrx and so does intense .. its all good lol. hes an excellent road tuner for utec
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Old 02-11-2006, 03:15 PM   #9
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Sorry Aaron WRX, posted that before my morning Coffee

Some people have had issues with v5 of the firmware, but usually with lots of mods and customised maps that worked well under 4.2c, switching to v5 then borks things up.

IMHO i'd recommend upgrading to v5 as it has more features like temp compensation and auto knock correction and there is no hesitation issues now (which could be mostly tuned out with 4.2c after a lot of tweaking around). My car runs much better with 5 than I could ever get it to work under 4.2c

I had 2 laptops, one refused to flash the firmware, it got to around 20% then borked out with checksum errors, it was an older Sony Vaio PCG-745 but with a newer Sony Vaio Athlon jobbie it worked flawlessly, even though they use the same UARTs and I was using the same serial cable. My old laptop probably was too slow to load the UART with data especially loaded up with XP! Try using a different cable too, the flashing checksum seems to be very picky about any errors, which is a good thing.

The ABC Auxiliary Boost Controller, is not a boost controller per se, or a manual boost controller. It's a bleed valve to help the stock boost controller out if the values in the map are not sufficient.
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Old 02-11-2006, 03:20 PM   #10
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btw all the questions you've asked are in the user manual

http://www.turboxs.com/utecwrxupdate.htm

Not reading it is a death warrant for your car!
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Old 02-11-2006, 04:12 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gethin
Sorry Aaron WRX, posted that before my morning Coffee

Some people have had issues with v5 of the firmware, but usually with lots of mods and customised maps that worked well under 4.2c, switching to v5 then borks things up.

IMHO i'd recommend upgrading to v5 as it has more features like temp compensation and auto knock correction and there is no hesitation issues now (which could be mostly tuned out with 4.2c after a lot of tweaking around). My car runs much better with 5 than I could ever get it to work under 4.2c

I had 2 laptops, one refused to flash the firmware, it got to around 20% then borked out with checksum errors, it was an older Sony Vaio PCG-745 but with a newer Sony Vaio Athlon jobbie it worked flawlessly, even though they use the same UARTs and I was using the same serial cable. My old laptop probably was too slow to load the UART with data especially loaded up with XP! Try using a different cable too, the flashing checksum seems to be very picky about any errors, which is a good thing.

The ABC Auxiliary Boost Controller, is not a boost controller per se, or a manual boost controller. It's a bleed valve to help the stock boost controller out if the values in the map are not sufficient.
yeah, im a noob. i totally missed the how to update firmware instructions in the manual. ill have to try it again.
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Old 02-11-2006, 07:09 PM   #12
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p.s. some people have trouble updating their firmware over USB-2-serial adapters.
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Old 02-11-2006, 07:18 PM   #13
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ok.. i take back what i said last night lol....

i just got back from takin a stroll in the rex ... my cel's are gone... i can still see like the cel letters lol cause its been on for so long i guess? but that made me happy and on top of it , i had a smile the whole time i was driving , i was thrown into my seat harder than before last night... i guess the ecu is getting used to it or something. the power is def there

i love it
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Old 02-11-2006, 08:53 PM   #14
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or maybe you didnt have 450LBs extra to lug around?
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Old 03-05-2006, 11:45 AM   #15
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I figured out after reading and comparing the computer diagrams I find out that WRX02 is missing the port 2 on the conector B136(B137 on the 04). So I bypass the cable from the oem hardness B137 port 2 and created a pin on the UTEC hardness wich didn't had a pin and voalaaa CEL light is off.
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Old 03-12-2006, 03:18 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaby
oem hardness ...UTEC hardness


Are you using a 02 utec on an 04 or something?
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Old 03-12-2006, 07:49 AM   #17
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Yepers, I'm using an 02 UTEC on a 04. After bypassing the hardness The cel is gone, I mean the one that is caused by the UTEC rev5(for wrx04 you needrev6) it is still able to read other cels. The diference is that the wrx 02 dosnt has the fuel pressure solenoid signal cable, thats why you have to create it bypassing the hardness. After that UTEC works perfect, I love it............
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Old 03-29-2006, 05:49 PM   #18
kcook
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BUMP , read the 1st post
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Old 03-29-2006, 07:16 PM   #19
gaby
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Conect the laptop. Check on dashboard if the UTEC is on the correct map, if not your remote switch could be damage.
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