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Old 10-01-2001, 06:20 PM   #1
iodine23
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Default EGT probe questions

So I bought an autometer EGT gauge and need to pick a probe to go with it. I was wondering if anyone has any experience or complaints about the "strap-on" probe that autometer sells. This is the probe that doesn't seem to require a weld-in fitting to mount, you just secure it with a steel strap.

It sounds like it might be prone to leaking to me, but I guess maybe when the netal of the header expands it seals up nice and snug with the probe, eliminating any leaks.

And it sounds like it'd be easier to install, just drill a hole in the header and strap the probe on... no problems with having a shop weld the bung in.

But speaking of that, how much would I expect to pay for someone to weld in a bung for me?
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Old 10-01-2001, 06:55 PM   #2
RS_NW
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The gentleman that installed my EGT has the strap on type on his car. He wasn't so happy with it and hopes to change it with a drill-in or weld in type. I guess from what I heard is the strap on is a little on the difficult side because of where he mounted it on the header (next to the collector for cylinders 3 & 4). I have the autometer on mine with a drill in type probe, I've had no problems and no leaks. Drill in is nice because there is no need for a welder.
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Old 10-01-2001, 08:15 PM   #3
iodine23
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Is that the "street series" probe on their website, part number 5249? It says that's a 1/4" probe with a 1/4" - 1/8" NPT compression fitting. The other probes on there have either a weld-in or strap style connector.
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Old 10-02-2001, 08:31 AM   #4
Legacy GTR
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Default I got the Street Series

I think the number was 454 something, not sure. I have to pick it up when I get out of school today. I'll let you know. Mine came with the strap, I wanted that cuz it would be easier then welding. Plus, It would be nice to put it in for a little bit while i'm still NA, then (hopefully) in less then a month switch it over to my Turbo headers. I know this has been asked many times but, cylinder #3, how far away? What are the temps, to shoot for in that postition?
Thanks guys,
Mike
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Old 10-02-2001, 08:54 AM   #5
STiShawn
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I have heard some autometer probes read rather slow, my Westech probe is pretty quick. They also sell a "strap on" type probe.....they are GREAT to deal with.
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Old 10-02-2001, 11:34 AM   #6
iodine23
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A Westech probe would be compatible with an AutoMeter gauge, right? As long as they're both "Type K" thermocouples?

I've heard place the probe on the cylinder with the least fuel flow/at the end of the fuel rail. In the 2.5RS it's #3 unless you did some fuel line rerouting. Place it 3 or 4 inches from the end of the header (I think that's what the AutoMeter probe install instruction say) centered in the header.

Look for temps around 1400-1450 I think.
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Old 10-02-2001, 11:49 AM   #7
STiShawn
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MIne is in cyl.#3, 2" off of the head. Max EGT thus far is 1450, 1350 cruise, 700 idle. 1400 at 125mph on the highway
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Old 10-02-2001, 12:40 PM   #8
iodine23
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Where'd you get the Westech probe from?
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Old 10-02-2001, 07:12 PM   #9
iodine23
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I'm wondering if it's possible to just drill a hole and tap it rather than welding in a fitting. If the thickness of the header wall is great enough, you could certianly do it.

I've searched and found that the WRX headers are cast iron (at least part of them is cast) which would let you tap rather than weld in a fitting. And since it's iron, you'd probably want to tap it anyways and not weld it.

But I think the old GC8 has all stainless steel headers, so I'm wondering about the thickness of the header wall. If it's too thin there wouldn't be enough usable threads... anyone know the thickness?
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Old 10-02-2001, 07:40 PM   #10
the Dabbler
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Quote:
Originally posted by iodine23
I'm wondering if it's possible to just drill a hole and tap it rather than welding in a fitting. If the thickness of the header wall is great enough, you could certianly do it.

I've searched and found that the WRX headers are cast iron (at least part of them is cast) which would let you tap rather than weld in a fitting. And since it's iron, you'd probably want to tap it anyways and not weld it.

But I think the old GC8 has all stainless steel headers, so I'm wondering about the thickness of the header wall. If it's too thin there wouldn't be enough usable threads... anyone know the thickness?
I asked this exact question a while back. Search for the thread if you're interested in the full discussion. To summarize, I think the consensus was that it would be okay.

I just tried this myself. The GC8 header is cast, but not very thick. Enough for 1.5 threads of my 1/8 BSP probe. A better man than I would probably have made this work, but I suck at tapping, so of course, mine leaks. I'm planning on slapping some JBWeld on there to seal it up. If all else fails, I'll go to a muffler shop and have them deal with it. But in an earlier investigation, none of the muffler shops around here had bungs that would fit (actually half of them didn't know what a bung was, and half of THEM said something like, "...heh heh...he said 'bung'". Maybe you'll have better luck where you are.
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Old 10-02-2001, 08:05 PM   #11
iodine23
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I did several seraches already and didn't really get enough information... probably just doing the wrong searches.

Anyways, I think I'm just in cheap mode, and don't want to pay someone to weld the bung in. I guess if I took off the header and drilled the right size of hole for the shop, I could probably just take it to them and say "weld this in" and they could have it done in minutes... and charge me $50.

I just like to "DIY" as much of the stuff as I can, I find it much more rewarding.

Dabbler: If you're using a 1/8" NPT fitting like the AutoMeter gauges, you could order one of their weld-in fittings for your probe if all else fails.
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Old 10-02-2001, 08:34 PM   #12
the Dabbler
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Quote:
I did several seraches already and didn't really get enough information... probably just doing the wrong searches.
I know what you mean. Often, I'm sure the info is in there somewhere, if I can only find the right keywords... If you're still interested, the thread I'm talking about was started by me, and was entitled "Okay To Tap Stock Header For EGT Probe", or something like that. Maybe you found it, but didn't see what you were looking for.

Thanks for the tip on getting the bung from Autometer. I actually have gauges from SPA Design/Technique, and just to be British, they're in BSP, not NPT. HOWEVER, NPT is very close to BSP, and they usually mate okay if the thread engagement isn't too long. I think I'll try the JB Weld first, though.
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