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Old 07-01-2006, 06:13 PM   #26
dedrooster
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PCV isn't on any of the service manuals I have seen, but it probably should be replaced at some point. I have replaced the one on my RS at 30k intervals and the old ones I have taken off are a bit gummed up but still seem to open and close ok, just slower than a new one.

I changed the pcv valve on my brothers Legacy at 100ksomething and it didn't move at all when shaken. He swore the car felt a little more powerful after changing it.
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Old 07-01-2006, 09:00 PM   #27
jsbush
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What are the symptoms of a bad PCV?
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Old 07-05-2006, 10:32 PM   #28
Boxologist
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examine the pcv valve every year. if it rattles, just zap it w/ some wd40 or liquidwrench to clean it anyway. if it doesn't rattle, clean it and let it drain. if it rattles finnally, put it back in and check if there are any other problems. its only a check valve.
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Old 03-30-2009, 09:29 PM   #29
jeffk182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kcismo View Post
noob question

..what is a pcv valve for? i'm close to 60k.
The PCV valve gets rid of crankcase pressure caused by blow-by...its recirculates Hydrocarbons (oil, fuel) back into the intake...its just a one way check valve. Yeah its a real simple part, but a bad PCV can cause some retarded problems. I usually change it out every 30-60k miles (whenever you feel like it basically)..its a really cheap part.
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Old 03-30-2009, 10:51 PM   #30
LorenzoS
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It's a very inexpensive part that is a royal pain to get to. So if I've gone through the trouble of removing it to test it, I might as well just put a fresh one back.
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Old 04-23-2009, 12:39 PM   #31
PolarisSnT
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The PCV on my 04 WRx is located just behind the manifold in a plastic T. If you buy a PCV valve and try to unscrew the old one from the plastic it will break the plastic.

Does anyone have a part number for the plastic piece? Im due for a replacement PCV as when I let off the throttle the RPMs still climb.
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Old 04-26-2009, 08:09 PM   #32
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Old 04-27-2009, 12:05 AM   #33
Engmus
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I changed mine out on my 04 for a simple reason.

To be proactive.

Was it borked? No.

Did it need done, nope.

Was it a waste of cash, yup.

Did I change them on previous cars that weren't subies that needed it, yes.

I just did it to do it, and avoid any possible failure in the crank case ventilation system.

Cheap part, cheap insurance.

Rather safe, then sorry.
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Old 05-17-2009, 07:27 PM   #34
Dragon Wagon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Subie Gal View Post
it's NEVER been on the maintenance list

Jamie
Yea but that doesn't mean PCV's dont go bad I just changed mine w 178,000 miles the spring inside lost some of its tension and stopped working not to mention it was also a little gummed up w sludge
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Old 04-07-2010, 01:21 PM   #35
rideAC1
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I've been checking in to the PCV's and oil/air separators. A poorly working PCV can cause the engine to run lean by venting the positive ventilation system. If you're not a stock car (boost and engine modification wise) it may be a very important, bad problem if you're running lean. Check out mild-extremely modified turbo cars, many have oil/air separators, which get rid of the PCV valve for a better working system to not have this problem.
And by changing out/cleaning a dirty/bad one, it may cause your car to run better by letting the correct amount of blow-by through rather than the possible lean condition.
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Old 10-29-2010, 10:36 PM   #36
eurospek
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Subie Gal View Post
guru question...

WHY do you people insist on changing the pcv?

seriously?

109k miles.

OEM PCV

no problems

it's not listed on the maintenance schedule

this is not a dirty nasty V8 engine

so why are you changing the pcv?

inquiring guru's wanna know?

i dont get it.

Jamie
Got a part number for it Jamie? For a 2005 WRX. Thanks!
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Old 11-07-2010, 06:04 PM   #37
DrD
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Just to add an observation - the first time I replaced the pcv valve (which was on there for the first 25k miles) it was a little gummed up - nothing too serious, but noticeably gummed up (probably could have cleaned it with carb cleaner) - the second time (this weekend) with an additional 30k miles, the one I removed was pretty much perfect - no gumming up, just a drop or two of clean looking oil in it. Rattling the new one and the one I just removed, they sure felt/sounded identical... the only difference I can see between the first and second interval, was the first included break-in (when I was running a conventional oil), and the second was from a period when I only ran synthetic... maybe that's the difference - I dunno.

Either way - it's a cheap part, and if I am going to go through the trouble of taking it off to check it, I'm just going to slap a new one on instead - better safe than sorry, I guess.
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Old 11-07-2010, 07:31 PM   #38
rideAC1
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Just a note; I would think that running a thicker oil would cause less blow-by to go through the PCV valve. If you have changed oil types/thickness that may also contribute to more/less "wear" on the valve.
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