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Old 08-18-2000, 10:38 AM   #1
DLC
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Post Got my GR2s

They came from SPD today in a big box, guess i know what i'll be doing tonight or tommorow

I'll have a ton of pics and a full write-up of the procedure on Turbo-Centic when i get done with it.
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Old 08-18-2000, 10:45 AM   #2
Ben
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2002 WRX wagon
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Hay its good , post at your website and I needs a pic how to connect my turbo boost control hose!!
Make your car go faster and faster!!!
Enjoy your Legacy!
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Old 08-18-2000, 11:01 AM   #3
DLC
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I'm still trying to decode a message Shik sent me concerning some bypass...

I really wish i knew what he was talking about because i'd love to try it, but i'm not familiar with all the bits and baubles outside of the actual turbo yet.

i wish he had a DC like me and could just take pics and add comments and whatnot.

i guess he's gonna have to scan them in anyway...how about it Shik?

Pictures for the morons
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Old 08-18-2000, 04:54 PM   #4
Shik
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2006 GT Ltd 5spd sdn
2015 WRX 6spd CWP

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Ahhh, a digital camera, now that would make things nice, but alas, I have to piss with the conventional nonsence and scan them Maybe this weekend.

Ben, it is hard for me to tell you how to hook up your boost controller because you have an AVC-R I believe. I never messed with electronic boost controllers but I will try and make this as simple as possible and maybe you can figure it out.

ANY boost controller MUST have at least two vacum lines. One vacumn line is a "boost source" line. This must go to either the vacumn line nipple on the turbo, or another place where it can read boost from such as the intake manifold.

The other vacumn line on the boost controller goes to the wastegate so the boost solenoid can control it.

I believe EBCs have three vacumn lines. I'm guessing the third is a "bleed" line since I believe the EBCs control boost by bleeding off some boost extremely quickly but I could be wrong. Just call Apex-i and ask them to help you. All single turbo cars work the same way as far as boost controllers go. There is little difference in the way you would hook it up on your legacy compared to the way you would hook it up on a Mitsubishi Lancer EVO VI. One other thing you might want to do it look at the factory boost solenoid(controller) and see where it's lines are coming from and going two. Since there are three lines on it as well, I'm guessing they are the same three lines you need, so you can basically just take out the factory boost solenoid and put the AVC-R in it's place, but again, I don't know for sure. As far as wiring goes, you're on your own. I have enough trouble hooking up my VCR

Dave, I am guessing you are talking about not using the turbo for a boost source like the factory had it?

OK, first lets make sure everyone knows where the factory boost solenoid is. It is on the front of the right front shock tower and it sits under the brown map sensor. The boost solenoid is a cylinder shaped part about 3 inches long and it has a black and pink wire entering it. The top of it also looks like semi-clear epoxy.

You will see three vacumn lines going to it, one from the bottom and two from the side. The two on the side of it are the ones we are focusing on. Now follow those two lines and see where they go. One will go the the nipple on the turbo and the other will go to the wastegate.

OK, now look on the number 1 cylinger intake runner( right front). You will see a vacumn line coming off the runner. See it? good, remeber where it is at.

Now then, remember the vacumn line on the boost solenoid that went over to the nipple on the turbo? OK, take the vacumn line off the nipple of the turbo and where it connects to the boost solenoid. Once you've done that, put a vacumn line plug on the nipple on the turbo.

Now, what you will need is about a foot or so of basically the same size vacum line, and a vacumn line "T".

Remember the vacum line that was connected to the right front intake runner? Cut that line and place the "T" in it. Now, you should have two open vacumn line nipples, one is the third nipple on the "T" you just installed and the other is on the factory boost solenoid where the old line was connected to. Now, take your foot or so of vacum line that you bought when you bought the "T" and connect the boost solenoid to the "T". Make sure to zip-tie all connections.

Now, instead of the boost solenoid getting it's boost readings from the nipple on the turbo, it is now getting it's readings from the right front intake manifold. When I installed my boost controller, I got very inconsistent boost readings at the turbo. But when I put the boost source line over on the intake manifold, the boost seemed much more consistent.

Also, if you plan on installing an intercooler, the "boost source" line MUST be placed over on the intake manifold because of the pressure drop with the intercooler. If you are still using the factory boost solenoid and it is connected to the nipple on the turbo and not the intake manifold, the engine will actually be getting 1-2psi less because although there is 8 or so psi at the turbo( where the factory boost solenoid is connected), you will lose about 1-2psi throughout the intercooler. The boost solenoid has no idea the this pressure drop has occured because according to the boost coming out of the turbo, there is 8psi there, but by the time it makes it's way through the intercooler and into the engine, there is more like 6-7psi(if that). By tapping the "boost source" line into the intake manifold, the boost solenoid is reading EXACTLY how much boost is going into the enigne AFTER the pressure drop in the intercooler already occured.

I have no idea if putting the "boost source" line over on the intake manifold in an otherwise stock set-up( no intercooler) will do much and the only way you will know for sure is if you have a boost guage before and after you move the line. But just by going on my experience, being that the boost in the manifold is exactly how much the engine is going to get, it just seems like a much more accurate place for a boost reading, and in my case it was.

Switching the lines around should take about 5 minutes and if you want to put them back into the stock configuration, it should take about 3 minutes. If I confused anyone, just let me know and I will try to explain a little better( and alot shorter ).
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Old 08-18-2000, 06:42 PM   #5
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That's exactly what i need, simple instructions on how to do a simple procedure

That helps out a lot. I've walked around and paced around the car and poked and prodded and i'm almost certain i know exactly what you're talking about now.

Maybe i'll get some more hose and a "T" when i rent my spring compressors tommorow

Thanks!
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Old 08-20-2000, 01:16 AM   #6
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Four hours later and a lot of Fast Orange, and they're in!

With just a quick spin i noticed a HUGE difference, it's much more settled and stiff but not harsh, just like on my 90.

I took a bunch of pics, look for them on the site soon!
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Old 08-21-2000, 08:58 AM   #7
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Ok, they're in and i've written a how-to with pics.

Check it out!
http://www.xmission.com/~dac/struts.htm
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Old 08-22-2000, 02:36 PM   #8
gumball
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Question

How do you like the GR2s? Has anyone put these on a later model (95-99) Legacy? I'd like to know if they're stiffer than the stock struts from the GT, or are most people going w/ the AGXs on late models (using the Imprezza part numbers).

thanks!
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Old 08-22-2000, 04:04 PM   #9
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They are stiffer than the stock struts on all Subarus and stay that way for at least 25k miles till they start to soften a bit. I had a set on my 90L AWD for about 20k and it still rides very smooth and nice, but not mushy.

The AGX are more expensive and only have a two-year warranty, so i skipped on them for that. I'm not planning on autocrossing a wagon, so adjustments weren't at the top of my list
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Old 08-23-2000, 10:55 AM   #10
gumball
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does that mean the stock ones are only good for 25-30K or so??? or do they last longer? I've got 57K on mine....

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Old 08-23-2000, 11:16 AM   #11
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60 is about all the stock ones are good for, then they get squishy and floaty and don't do nearly as well as they did when they were new.

The GR2s are stiffer than the stock ones new and will only start softening at 25-30k. Since they have a lifetime warranty you could realistically drive them for 60k and get a replacment set.
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