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Old 06-16-2006, 04:52 PM   #26
Crazykev
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Bought my car in November of 02' and it had 02' size gears.
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Old 06-17-2006, 10:42 AM   #27
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That doesn't mean much though. It depends more on the date of manufacture. Your car could have been made in april of 02' and it may have been swapped from dealer to dealer before you even saw it. I worked at a dealership and the only way you could probably tell is the vin or something. Know what I mean.
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Old 06-18-2006, 08:34 PM   #28
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Does anyone know how to check this for a bulliton at a dealership? Is there a way to check by vin numbers? Any service dept guys out there that might know? It would be a good question for the sticky. I don't have the service manual either. There may be something in that. I'm sure I'm not the only person who would like to know.
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Old 07-01-2006, 07:01 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digitalmethods
Does anyone know how to check this for a bulliton at a dealership? Is there a way to check by vin numbers? Any service dept guys out there that might know? It would be a good question for the sticky. I don't have the service manual either. There may be something in that. I'm sure I'm not the only person who would like to know.
Bump for an answer.


How to know what gears (old or wider) are in the 2003?
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Old 07-01-2006, 07:18 PM   #30
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Look up my posts. I should have your answer in another thread. I believe it's the sticky.
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Old 07-02-2006, 07:04 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digitalmethods
Look up my posts. I should have your answer in another thread. I believe it's the sticky.
All I found was that nobody knows. Does anyone know what '03 WRXs got the wider gears?
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Old 07-02-2006, 10:44 AM   #32
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Old 08-09-2006, 03:42 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RipVanW
Dave

Glad you got the "case flex" myth sorted out once and for all. Regarding spur gears vs. helical gears: There is some misunderstanding about overlap ratio and how significant this really is to overall gear strength. Not to knock you, because I also used to believe that the higher overlap ratio of a helical gear (2.0+) meant that it was stronger than a spur gear (1.35+), however other more important factors are involved.

---
Very good info. I always assumed the reason most racing gear manufacturers opted for a spur gear profile was to minimize thrust loading of the bearings which obviously could get quite high with a lot of torque...and thus require some serious bearings and bearing preloads to support and locate the gear shafts. The spur gear design also logically seemed like it should do much better when there is large gear separation. But clearly there is a lot more involved. Unfortunately its not easy to find info on the subject that is not overwhelmingly technical. I'm only a semi-tech geek in these areas. Once you start throwing in large amounts of high level math I flip to something else!

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Old 08-09-2006, 03:53 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaypine
All I found was that nobody knows. Does anyone know what '03 WRXs got the wider gears?
If your transmission code is TY754VN2AA you have the narrow gears. If you have transmission code TY754VN2BA you have the wider gears.

The cutoff is actually around March of 2002 so its late MY02 where the transition took place and not MY03. I was incorrect.

If you can't identify the transmission but you have the transmission apart you can tell by looking at the 4th gear thrust washer. If the thrust washer is approximately 3mm in thickness then you have the wider gears. If the thrust washer is thicker than you have the narrow gears.
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Old 08-09-2006, 04:12 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave_RalliSpec
If your transmission code is TY754VN2AA you have the narrow gears. If you have transmission code TY754VN2BA you have the wider gears.

The cutoff is actually around March of 2002 so its late MY02 where the transition took place and not MY03. I was incorrect.

If you can't identify the transmission but you have the transmission apart you can tell by looking at the 4th gear thrust washer. If the thrust washer is approximately 3mm in thickness then you have the wider gears. If the thrust washer is thicker than you have the narrow gears.
Thank you, Dave
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Old 08-17-2006, 11:09 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave_RalliSpec
If your transmission code is TY754VN2AA you have the narrow gears. If you have transmission code TY754VN2BA you have the wider gears.

The cutoff is actually around March of 2002 so its late MY02 where the transition took place and not MY03. I was incorrect.

If you can't identify the transmission but you have the transmission apart you can tell by looking at the 4th gear thrust washer. If the thrust washer is approximately 3mm in thickness then you have the wider gears. If the thrust washer is thicker than you have the narrow gears.
How do you find out the transmission code? Is it stamped on the case?

Last edited by jaypine; 08-20-2006 at 06:49 AM.
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Old 08-18-2006, 07:53 AM   #37
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I'm wondering the same.
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Old 08-19-2006, 08:47 PM   #38
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Bump for an answer.....Dave?
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Old 08-24-2006, 12:29 PM   #39
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The transmission code is on the tranny on the driver side, close to where it mounts to the bell housing. It should also be stamped on the VIN plate as well.
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Old 08-25-2006, 12:23 PM   #40
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so the best thing to do if looking to upgrade the rex is to by the bigger gear teeth then?
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Old 08-25-2006, 02:15 PM   #41
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...either that or keep saving for an Sti and don't snap the axles.
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Old 08-26-2006, 09:36 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave_RalliSpec
If your transmission code is TY754VN2AA you have the narrow gears. If you have transmission code TY754VN2BA you have the wider gears.

The cutoff is actually around March of 2002 so its late MY02 where the transition took place and not MY03. I was incorrect.

If you can't identify the transmission but you have the transmission apart you can tell by looking at the 4th gear thrust washer. If the thrust washer is approximately 3mm in thickness then you have the wider gears. If the thrust washer is thicker than you have the narrow gears.

Im trying to find what kind of tranny I bought to replace my RS tranny. Looking for a bit of help: TY752V2DAA . I took the # off of the bell housing, knowing little about Subaru I am guessing it is the same as domestic. Can anyone help?
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Old 08-27-2006, 10:29 AM   #43
digitalmethods
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave_RalliSpec
If your transmission code is TY754VN2AA you have the narrow gears. If you have transmission code TY754VN2BA you have the wider gears.

The cutoff is actually around March of 2002 so its late MY02 where the transition took place and not MY03. I was incorrect.

If you can't identify the transmission but you have the transmission apart you can tell by looking at the 4th gear thrust washer. If the thrust washer is approximately 3mm in thickness then you have the wider gears. If the thrust washer is thicker than you have the narrow gears.
Thanks I always wanted to know that and I just found out that my gears are the wider ones. That gives me a little more piece of mind for my turbo install.
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Old 10-04-2006, 05:13 AM   #44
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Any information at this time for the 06 WRX tranny? You had mentionned it could be like the Legacy tranny because of the 2.5 block. Stronger than 03-05 trannies?
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Old 10-04-2006, 05:31 AM   #45
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Stronger? Try weaker!
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Old 10-16-2006, 10:51 PM   #46
david delbrugge
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Default rs rear diff to a wrx

the 2.5 rs has the same gear ratio as the 2.0 wrx but with different final drive with this work
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Old 10-19-2006, 04:26 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by david delbrugge View Post
the 2.5 rs has the same gear ratio as the 2.0 wrx but with different final drive with this work
None of the gear ratios are the same between an RS gearbox and WRX one, except reverse. US gearboxes anwyay.
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Old 10-29-2006, 07:58 PM   #48
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So basically....the PPG sets in the 5MT 'bring' the 5MT up to the same level of the 6MT...in the sense that 'it cannot be broken'...if you are the type to have, say, 500 hp, drive it hard, but have mechanical sympathy.

aka...

...launch hard, but dont sidestep and take measure to prevent driveline shock...
...shift hard, but dont let the driveline shock....
...etc etc etc...

So its either RA sets for most people as long as they dont drive it like a complete tool...

Or you need a 6MT or PPG 5spd.

And in the end, all the toolbags will still break those 'cuz they are stupid.
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Old 10-31-2006, 04:35 PM   #49
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^^^ You can break anything eventually. Someday, somebody will honestly break their ppgs. Well, probably.

People who are poor like me usually go with the RAs because they are strong-ER than stock to some extent, so it's better than nothing, but a full $2000 less for the parts than PPG. And $2000 extra dollars puts you up into the mid $4k range after shipping IF you do the install yourself. $4.5-5k is a small fortune to a poor dude like me, so that's not attainable yet.

But to sum it up... yeah, what you wrote sounds like a reasonable evaluation.
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Old 10-31-2006, 05:46 PM   #50
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^^^

Phil @ Element broke his PPG dogbox, but it was running near 600whp and wasused 100% for race.

PPG's are the best aftermarket gears you can buy, but you pay for them.
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