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Old 04-23-2006, 06:58 PM   #1
chaddeus
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Default On Road to 30k Service Maintenance

This seems to be used as my research on my 30k service. I'll try to update as much as possible. This can be used also for those who need some guidance when performing the 30k maintenance.

Engine Oil - Mobil 1 5W30 Synthetic, 5qt from Walmart.

Change engine coolant - Subaru Coolant SOA868V9210 (Gal), 2 gallon needed and add Subaru Cooling System Conditioner #SOA635071 is a MUST. Sometimes Subaru Coolant is hard to get so maybe Preston All Make/All Model type with Subaru Conditioner http://www.subaruparts.com/catalog/?section=366 would be good. Need 7.7L or 8.1qt + Subaru Conditioner.

Replace Fuel filter - For the STi, this service is not needed. Change at around 60k miles.

Air cleaner element - Subaru part 16546AA020. Any other recommendation? I most probably wanna change the interior air filter also just for fun. I think both are so easy to change that I can do it myself.

Spark plugs - the STi currently have Platinum spark plugs so change at 60k.

Front Diff & Transmission Oil - Using 4.1L or 4.3 US qt, specs 75w90. Uncle Scotty MIxture is fine with WRX but not so recommended for the STi. Motul Gear 300 seems to get favourable review but a bit too expensive and might be hard to get offline. Valvoline 75w-90 synthetic (available from NAPA Auto) seems to be the best option for now. However, if your Subaru dealership carries the Subaru Transmission fluid, go ahead and use theirs.

Rear Differential Oil -Since I am driving an STi, an oil that is LSD specific is a must so it seems that the general census prefer the Subaru LSD oil KO305Y0900 and available at http://www.subaruparts.com/catalog/?section=366 or Motul 90PA LSD. Need 0.9L to 1.1L (1-1.2 US qt).

Brake Fluid - Motul dot 5.1. Requires 500ml or 16.9oz but I guess I get 1L to change for the entire car plus the bleeding process which might need to put extra fluid.

Disc brake pads and discs/ Axle boots shaft joint portions - EBC Yellow R pads. Brembo Slotted is seems to be the most cost effective. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=932610

Power Steering Fluid - Use Dexron III, 0.7 U.S qt needed

Clutch System - Use DOT4 brake fluid.

I know there's a lot of questions but I hope some of you could answer it and then maybe we could compile it for future reference to those who need to do the 30 or 60k service.

- Charles
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Last edited by chaddeus; 07-25-2006 at 01:34 AM.
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Old 04-23-2006, 10:13 PM   #2
B16A2NR
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You pay subaru to change your oil? I presume your not doing the 30k yourself. I did a bit of research before performing my 30k heres what I came up with:
OEM Fuel Filter $35ish
2qt Valvoline Synpower Brake Fluid
Uncle scottys cocktail: 2pt Castrol Hypoc gear oil,1qt Pennzoil Syncromesh, 1qt Redline LW Shockproof
1qt Redline 75w90 (Rear Diff)
Denso Iridium IK22 Spark plugs (02wrx)
2gal Prestone Antifreeze
12oz Prestone Flush
12oz Redline Waterwetter
12oz Injector Cleaner
Purolator L14460 Filter
OEM Filter Gaskets
I dont think you need PS fluid change at 30k.
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Old 04-24-2006, 06:00 AM   #3
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Your are missing the Subaru Cooling System Conditioner though! That's a REQUIRED item, not something you can just casually dismiss.
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Old 04-24-2006, 09:37 AM   #4
overdose
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Just finished this on my 2004 STi

Fuel filter is in the tank on STi (don't replace), plugs don't need changed until 60k (already iridium), don't need to change power steering fluid...

I just used subaru coolant + conditioner, valvoline 75w90 for the tranny, subaru lsd oil for the diff, ate super blue brake fluid, mobil1 truck & suv engine oil, had new intake already and dealer had just replaced the brake pads for free

I'd recommend you try Castrol Hypoy C 75w-90 gear oil as opposed to the valvoline, I have the "5th gear grind from high rpm in 4th" issue now, but not on the stock fluid... have been told this will disappear again if I switch to Hypoy
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Old 04-24-2006, 10:07 AM   #5
chaddeus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unabomber
Your are missing the Subaru Cooling System Conditioner though! That's a REQUIRED item, not something you can just casually dismiss.
Thanks unabomber but a lot of people like the Redline Waterwetter. But most probably you'll say something like there is not enough evidence if waterwetter is better or poorer than the subaru cooling conditioner.

- Charles

Last edited by chaddeus; 04-24-2006 at 10:33 AM.
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Old 04-24-2006, 10:09 AM   #6
chaddeus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overdose
Just finished this on my 2004 STi

Fuel filter is in the tank on STi (don't replace), plugs don't need changed until 60k (already iridium), don't need to change power steering fluid...

I just used subaru coolant + conditioner, valvoline 75w90 for the tranny, subaru lsd oil for the diff, ate super blue brake fluid, mobil1 truck & suv engine oil, had new intake already and dealer had just replaced the brake pads for free

I'd recommend you try Castrol Hypoy C 75w-90 gear oil as opposed to the valvoline, I have the "5th gear grind from high rpm in 4th" issue now, but not on the stock fluid... have been told this will disappear again if I switch to Hypoy
Well, ok dont need to change the spark plug and power steering fluid but the fuel filter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Subaru
When the vehicle is used in extremely cold or hot weather areas, contamination of the filter may occur and filter replacement should be performed more often. "
I guess I just change it. I read a couple of post saying that its not required to change the STi fuel filter as its located differently from the WRX. I guess its better to change than not to change.

- Charles
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Old 04-24-2006, 10:37 AM   #7
overdose
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read the service schedule, it says change fuel filter * EXCEPT STI
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Old 04-24-2006, 10:25 PM   #8
poolumps
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Can you add this in later? I have a 9-2x and I am sure saab prob has no clue about the Subaru Cooling System Conditioner? What should I do?
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Old 04-25-2006, 07:00 PM   #9
B16A2NR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unabomber
Your are missing the Subaru Cooling System Conditioner though! That's a REQUIRED item, not something you can just casually dismiss.
Unabomber: I did a little research about the Condition and it looks like its for the 2.5L : http://www.cars101.com/recalls.html
Not sure if your addressing this information to me or not.
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Old 04-26-2006, 04:05 PM   #10
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update?
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Old 05-17-2006, 03:29 PM   #11
chaddeus
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Can't really reach my 30k cos my car had been broken into like 3 times in the past 30 days!!

- Charles
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Old 05-18-2006, 07:07 PM   #12
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Why two gallons of the subaru coolant? It is straight coolant and needs to be mixed 50/50, and unless you do a REALLY thorough job of getting coolant out, it'll be tough to fit in more than 2gals of coolant mix. I just (last weekend) did the majority of this service, and I have to say I hate the drain plug on the radiator. Drains right into the subframe, which means a mess everywhere.

Transmission is really quite easy to do. There was almost nothing for metal on the magnet and the oil looked almost new. However, I would recommend to stay away from Valvoline 75w90 gear oil. The synchros in 1 and 2 don't like to engage at ALL when cold, and shifting isn't nearly as smooth as I would like when warm. When I get the chance I am going to try Uncle Scotty's mix.

Rear diff is also pretty easy to drain, but kind of a pain in the ass to fill. Take off the temp sensor first (unhook wire, then unscrew sensor), then pull the drain plug. My rear diff oil started out pretty foul-smelling, and there was a bit of gunk/shavings on the magnet. Most of my driving is highway, so I don't know what's eating my rear diff, but hopefully it's not having any issues. I haven't seen any recommendations specifically for what to run in the rear diff. Anyone have any thoughts on that? (I have a feeling I'll be changing mine again soon, depending on what I hear.)

I also did my plugs, and that was by far the most time-consuming part of the job. It's not TOO terrible if you take out the entire intake track, the washer fluid resevoir and the battery, but there's never as much room as you would like. Car runs nice after, though!
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Old 06-07-2006, 01:37 AM   #13
andysf
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Hmm, is my manual different from some of yours'? The online service manual says to perform the following at 30k for the STi:

Tire rotation
Oil + Oil filter
Air filter
Brake fluid
Spark Plugs *a couple of you mentioned 60k?*
Coolant + conditioner

Plus a lot of "inspections" (not necessarily replacements) like transmission gear oil, brake pads, etc.
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Old 06-07-2006, 10:23 AM   #14
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How necessary is it really to flush your coolant and brake fluid and change your fuel filter at 30K. I have never done this with my previous cars at such an early interval and never had any issues.
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Old 06-07-2006, 01:43 PM   #15
chaddeus
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andysf, you are right that gear oil, brake pads are not neccessary replacement but my pads, I predict are gone soon its personal. For gear transmission, I am going to change also. Its not going to do harm to change your gear transmission early. Its just cost.

By all means follow Subaru suggestion. The reason for the coolant flush is that some coolant cannot be mixed with other coolants but there are coolant in the market that allows you to mix. Flushing or not flushing depends.

- Charles
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Old 06-07-2006, 03:16 PM   #16
andysf
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Did you change your spark plugs? The STi Iridiums say change at 30k, not the 60k you mentioned in the first post.

BTW, I just broke 30k and have done most of the previously mentioned, and also changed my brake pads... running HPS now. All I have left to do is the plugs and coolant... and perhaps tranny and gear oil.
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Old 06-20-2006, 02:54 AM   #17
chaddeus
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If its Iridium, it will last even longer. I am pretty sure it says change at 60k

- Charles
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Old 06-20-2006, 10:52 AM   #18
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1 gal of coolant is enough unless it is premixed. Be sure to mix with distilled or deionized water, not tap. And take your time refilling to get all the ar out (burp the hoses)

Brake fluid change intervals depend a lot on climate. The fluid absorbs water over time, so the more humid it is where you live, the more frequently you should change it.
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Old 06-25-2006, 01:46 AM   #19
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I have some question for you suby owners, I'm new here and my dad just gave me his 02 wrx wagon and I need to do a 30k service, my dad is not using synthetic oil on the wrx, is it bad to just use a regular 10w30? or should I flush it and use a synthetic oil?? I have a 91 integra with b16a CTR cams & pistons (which is for sale now) and I use mobil 1 15w50 full synthetic.
so any suggestions is welcome.
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Old 06-25-2006, 08:06 PM   #20
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The Subaru-only repair shop I use uses regular 10w30; I prefer to use Mobil1 10w30. Either will work fine, and no flushing is required when changing types. I'm one of those who lean against using a 5w30 (especially now in the summer).
Probably more would agree that using an OEM oil filter and crush washer is better than many aftermarket filters.

Hint: filling in the Chapter/Region, Location, and Vehicle parts of your profile can help give people an idea of your climate, local tips, and your car model (in posts wher you don't mention it).
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Old 06-25-2006, 10:32 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vroom...psshh
I have some question for you suby owners, I'm new here and my dad just gave me his 02 wrx wagon and I need to do a 30k service, my dad is not using synthetic oil on the wrx, is it bad to just use a regular 10w30? or should I flush it and use a synthetic oil??
Regular ("dino") oil is fine; 5W30 is usually preferred except in hot climates (which seattle isn't) No need to flush if you switch to synthetic but Subaru says you should follow the same service intervals.
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Old 06-27-2006, 02:28 PM   #22
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I drive my WRX about 8k a year, I'm coming up on 3 years now, would it be a good idea to change the transmission oil anyways, more of a wear over time versus miles. At 21,000 Miles now, will have the car for 3 years in October.
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Old 07-25-2006, 02:32 PM   #23
chaddeus
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Its time to perform my 30k and I think I did almost all the item and that includes changing my power steering fluid, transmission, differential etc. The dealer quoted me approximately $350 for a 5hrs work of labor.



- Charles
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