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Old 10-05-2001, 04:24 PM   #1
Jewbaru
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Default J&S Install Instructions

Ok, these are for the first gen J&S. The instructions you get are crap, so I decided to type this out to help out. These will work on the MY00, and they appear to be the same for the MY99.

Included in the box should be
J&S unit in a purple "Crown Royale" bag
Wiring harness with 8 wires coming from it.
2 "weather pack" connectors (trash)
Knock sensor w/ Metric adapter and wire plug
1 large diameter length of split wire loom
1 small diameter length of split wire loom
a few male butt connectors
wire ties

First, test mount the Unit. I put mine in the glove box, you can put it anywhere, it has more than enough length of wire. Once you get in place, run the BLUE wire from the harness to the drivers side of the car. Just above the clutch (or where the clutch would be) pedal is a rubber grommet. You can reach under the master cylender from inside the engine bay, and push it out. Punch a hole in it (a SMALL hole) and push the blue wire thru it. Make sure it's through enough so you can grab it from under the hood.

Push the grommet back into place and from under the hood, pull the wire thru. Pull it so there's not much slack in the car, but enough to play with encase you move the J&S around (I left about 12-14" of slack, and tied it taught under the dash).

Next test mount the knock sensor. There are a few places to bolt it using existing bolts, however, I found a spot with a proper hole, and it's still part of the block. On the passenger side, right before the block connects to the tranny, you can see a threaded hole. The sensor will screw right in. (see pic below) Once it's in place, plug the knock sensor's wire plug (it has an adapter on the wire) onto the top of it. Run the blue wire from the grommet under the TB and down to the knock sensor. (Don't zip tie it in place yet!) Trim the wire down to get rid of the excess slack, and remove the plug off of the knock sensor. I didn't use the connecters he supplied, I soldered the wires together, and I recommend you do the same. If you don't know how to solder, get some one who does, but be sure to use the proper solder type (rosin core I belive). You can get it at any Radio Shack.

Once their soldered and covered, go ahead and torque the adapter and knock sensor down. Do NOT overtorque the adapter or sensor!!! It doesn't have to be too tight, 15 ft-lbs for the adapter, and 12 for the sensor into the adapter. Plug the connecter back on the knock sensor, and cover the blue wire with the small diameter wire loom. I zip tied the loom to the adapter as well to make sure it didn't dangle and hit the turbo. Here's a pic of the finished look.



Once that's done, it's time to crawl into the car. First disconnect the battery.

Use the directions Here to get to the ECU. Don't worry about the wiring, just use it as a guide to which plugs are which, and to get the ECU uncovered.

The J&S has 8 wires, 7 of them connect to the ECU, the 8th is the knock sensor. To add to the confusion, there are two wires that are the same color. One is IGN Out from the unit, the other is for the TPS. They are marked on the unit itself. Once you find the TPS wire, just tuck it out of the way untill later.

With the ECU exposed, you'll need to cut wires from pins 25 and 26 from B134 plug (cut at least an inch from the plug, more if you can). Use the guide at the bottom to help. Remember, that is as if you were looking at the unit from the wire side. Strip off some insulation to expose the copper wire, and solder the wires as listed below. Be sure to cut the J&S wires to length, they are WAY too long, but leave a little slack. When I say coming from the plug, when you cut the wire you'll have some wire coming from the plug, and more wire going into the loom which eventually leads into the engine. Coming from the plug is exactly that, the wire that is connected to the plug, coming from the loom is the wire that is going into the loom.

The J&S GREEN wire gets soldered to the wire in the 25 position, coming from the plug.

The J&S BROWN wire gets soldered to the wire in the 26 position, coming from the plug.

The J&S YELLOW (NOT the TPS wire) gets soldered to the wire in the 26 position, going to the loom.

The J&S WHITE gets soldered to the wire in the 25 position, going to the loom.

Those weatherpak things are a pain, I threw them away, you won't need them. Be sure to cover the wires after you finish soldering them.

The next wires you don't have to cut, just expose some wire and solder the corresponding wires.

The J&S RED gets soldered to the wire in the 7 position on the B135 connector.

The J&S BLACK gets soldered to the wire in the 35 position on the B134 connector.

Once you get the wires all set, and covered, plug the plugs back into the ECU, and connect the battery. Start up the engine while watching the red LED on the back of the J&S. It will flash everytime it get's an ignition pulse (most of the time it looks like it's a steady light), if it doesn't flash, you did something wrong, and the car won't start. Check your connections. Once you get the car running, have someone rev the car to about 1500RPMs and hold it there. With a screwdriver, tap on the knock sensor adapter rapidly. You should hear the engine slow down.

If you don't check the knock sensor connections, if you do, you're all set.

Disconnect the battery again, and unplug the ECU. The last wire to connect is the TPS wire.

Trim some insulation off of the wire in the 17 position on the B136 connector. Solder the TPS wire to this wire. Cover it up, plug it in, and connect the battery.

Here's a diagram of the plugs. remember, this is if looking at the plugs from the WIRE side.


Fire up the car and take it for a test drive. Set the knob on the back of the J&S for about half way (it has a little arrow). Jump on the highway, and at about 50mph in 5th gear, give it about 1/2 throttle. As you accellerate, turn the knob clockwise to increase sensitivity. You might be able to feel the car slow, if you have a Monitor, that'll help as well. Using the monitor, you want to set it just under the point where it starts to retard due to engine noise (about the 1:30-2 o'clock position).

Once you get it all set, use the large diameter loom to cover the J&S wires coming from the ECU, cover the ECU up, bolt every thing back in place, and clean up your work area. Enjoy!
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Last edited by Jewbaru; 10-05-2001 at 04:32 PM.
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Old 10-05-2001, 05:41 PM   #2
STiShawn
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Thanks Joel, I will appreciate your help tomorrow doing mine!
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Old 10-05-2001, 09:01 PM   #3
8Complex

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Looks excellent, Joel. I'm definitely going to have to print those out before tackling mine.
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Old 10-05-2001, 11:32 PM   #4
John at J&S
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Default WeatherPacks

Joel: Thanks for the wiring info. Not a good idea to toss the WeatherPacks, though. If something goes wrong with the unit, those soldered connections won't let you get back to stock. Besides, check the price next time you go to PepBoys. They're not cheap.

I know it's a pain to install them if you don't have the proper crimper. You can do a decent job with the "AMP service Tool I". It's about $25.00. I used it for a long time before I sprang for the real tool. A good install shop might have the real tool from GM. They are about $140.00.
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Old 10-06-2001, 05:02 AM   #5
Avenger
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What should the mode setting dip switches be set to? Also did you just cut the plugs off the wires from the j&s before you solder them on?
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Old 10-07-2001, 06:09 PM   #6
Jewbaru
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John, yea, I know not using the weatherpak's make it harder to return to stock, but I sacrificed that for a more secure connection, and to save space (it's tight under the ECU shield.) I didn't throw them in the trash, I still have 'em, and might use them for something else down the line. Also, the crimp connections on the knock sensor we're too weak to stay together. While I was origionally threading the wire in the split loom, they kept coming undone, so I soldered them in the name of safety. Also, I kinda stared confused at the weatherpaks for a few minutes trying to figure out how the work. I gave up.

I can't remember the settings for the Dip switches, I know the first switch is 10 or 20 degrees retard, the second is retard all or individual, and the last two are supposed to be permanant up (or was it down?) It's documented in the instructions John provides.
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Old 10-08-2001, 10:39 AM   #7
caseynsb
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These instructions need to be saved somewhere or sticky.
If they sunk to the bottom of the post pool, no one could use em =).

(except the ppl that actually use the 'search')
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Old 10-08-2001, 01:23 PM   #8
STiShawn
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With the excpetion of my brain farts, this thing is stupid simple to install. I like having the dual monitor as well...yet another mod that was easier to install than my g*d damn Borla header.
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Old 02-16-2002, 04:24 PM   #9
Graham
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Guys, I am gonna be putting in my J&S soon. Just today I went outside and tried to screw my sensor into the place where Jewbaru put his, but the sensor didn't fit. I bought my unit partly used, but the J&S unit itself is new. What I need to know is if I'm missing this metric adapter for my knock sensor, maybe this is why it doesn't fit? Like I said, I tried Jewbaru's location, but it would only screw in about a 1/4", then it became extremely tight and looked like it was starting to wear away the threads.

Also, the blue wire leaving the knock sensor is about six inches long and it has a plug I am not familiar with on it (light blue plug). I don't have the other side of the connection to the plug so I cut it off and I am going to just solder the blue wire together, eliminating the plug completely. Is this O.K.? I assumed it was just for a quick disonnection if you didn't want to use the knock sensor for some reason.

I did not receive a "wiring harness with 8 wires coming from it", I just bought my own wires to use, same colors as the ones J&S supplies.

I would appreciate any information provided, as this install shouldn't be that hard, I just need to figure out a few of these small details.

Graham
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Old 02-16-2002, 05:24 PM   #10
8Complex

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Graham - Yeah, you're probably missing the adapter. It's just a hex with a female thread on one side and a male thread on the other side.
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Old 02-16-2002, 06:35 PM   #11
John at J&S
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Check out the MR2 forum. Their knock sensors are the same thread, I think. They are also swiching to GM sensors. Severe knock will break the Toyota sensor.

http://www.board.mr2faq.com/showthre...threadid=60528
http://www.board.mr2faq.com/showthre...threadid=60604

If you can wait till Monday, I can send you the adapter for the GM sensor. We get sensors from Saturn. #21021879. They have a 10x1.5mm thread. The adapter converts that to 10x1.25mm.
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Old 02-16-2002, 07:23 PM   #12
Graham
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8- Can I buy one those at Home Depot or somewhere like that, or is it a special order thing?

John- I can wait till Monday definetly, I just need it by next Saturday as that is when my I plan on putting it in. Is the one I have a GM, Saturn, or a Toyota sensor? I am kind of confused by what you are saying. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I need the 10x1.25mm adapter right?

I feel stupid



Graham
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Old 02-16-2002, 08:31 PM   #13
John at J&S
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GM supplies Saturn with sensors. The Saturn number is #21021879. It's stamped on the side.
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Old 02-16-2002, 09:53 PM   #14
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John at J&S: Could you e-mail me information on how I could order the addaptor from you? Thanks.

wrx@adsl.intergate.ca
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Old 02-16-2002, 09:58 PM   #15
Graham
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John are you saying that I could just go to a Saturn or GM dealer and get one of those sensors and it would fit fine withour the adapter? Just replace the one I have now?



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Old 02-16-2002, 10:47 PM   #16
John at J&S
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nope

The threads in the engine are 10x1.25mm. You can cut your own threads like the MR2 guys are doing in that link I provided earlier, or you can order our adapter bolt.

A third way is to drill and tap the engine case for 10x1.5mm. Then the Saturn sensor will fit right in.

I think some have moved the stock sensor, then drilled and tapped the stock location.
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Old 02-17-2002, 02:08 AM   #17
Graham
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Thanks for the info. John. I think I'm just gonna order the adapter bolt from you, so could you please send me some ordering information and/or contact.

Thanks

Graham
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Old 02-17-2002, 05:16 AM   #18
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http://safeguard.20m.com - J&S web site. Should have all the info you need to get in contact with John.
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Old 02-17-2002, 09:50 AM   #19
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Jewbaru,

Do you mind if we post this info on ScoobyMods? We will give you credit for writing them of course. That way it can be easily found in the future.

Let me know.

Regards,

Aaron
http://www.AzScooby.com
http://www.Scoobymods.com
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Old 02-22-2002, 10:59 AM   #20
Graham
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Would it be alright to use vampire clamps instead of soldering the wires together for the connections in the setup?

Grahamn
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