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Old 05-01-2006, 09:47 PM   #1
redgrocerygetter
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Default I think I screwed up....(need help)

I cleaned my injectors about a week ago. Well today I found a Fuel leak from the Injector in Cylinder #1.

Ok here comes the problem... I tried to depressurize the fuel system. I unpluged the fuel pump and turned the car on. I would only run for about a few seconds before it would cut off. I figured that the system was bleed, Boy was I wrong.

Anyways,I pulled the injector and all the fuel in the system started to flow into Cylinder #1 well there was nothing I could do about it cause I had to Replace the O-ring gasket for the injector cause it got pinched when I reinstalled them the first time. So while I ran to Napa to get a gasket the cylinder filled up with fuel.

I tried to get as much fuel out as possable with a Syphon (sorry it it's spelt wrong). Well I thought I had enough so I decided to start the car and let it burn the rest off. So I turned the key and it ran for about 1 1/2 to 2 seconds the nothing.

Now the car won't turn over and my check engine, oil, and battery lights are on. I'm not sure but I think I flooded it. Is there anyone out there that might know what the problem is? I called my father and he told me to pull the spark plugs and let the car airout. If I did flood it is there any other way to unflood it (for lack of a better word)? I'm just looking for anyone that may be able to help me. I just hope I didn't fudge the engine up for good.

My car is a 98 Legacy GT. Thanks for any help you guys can give me.
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Old 05-01-2006, 10:54 PM   #2
Jonathan
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The real concern is Hydrolock. If you fill up a cylinder with gas/oil/water and then try and start it the fluid will not compress as easily as air... If another cylinder actually fired and your # 1 cylinder was too full of fluid, you could easily have done major damage to you engine....

Rather then speculate on it though, follow your dads advice and pull the #1 sparkplug and then try to run the engine on 3 cylinders. Hopefully it will at least crank okay.

[edit:Make sure you dont have oodles of raw gas and a plug dangling where fumes could be ignitied, and cause an engine fire. Maybe just ground out your #1 plug lead, OR run the engine with a "bump starter" with the ignition off.]
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Old 05-01-2006, 11:26 PM   #3
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Personally, I would wait it out. Let it evaporate before you try anything else *shrug* But that's me
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Old 05-01-2006, 11:39 PM   #4
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I tried to start it with just the three cylinders and I still wouldn't start. I'm going to take out all the plugs and let it air out for 24 Hours. Unless someone has a better way of doing it?

I hope I didn't get Hydrolock.
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Old 05-01-2006, 11:40 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
The real concern is Hydrolock. If you fill up a cylinder with gas/oil/water and then try and start it the fluid will not compress as easily as air... If another cylinder actually fired and your # 1 cylinder was too full of fluid, you could easily have done major damage to you engine.....
Like what kind of Damage?
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Old 05-01-2006, 11:42 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redgrocerygetter
Like what kind of Damage?
Bent rods, busted valves.

When you say "it still wouldn't start" do you mean it won't turn over at all?
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Old 05-02-2006, 12:17 AM   #7
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Well, I hope all goes well. If you get it running, it's probably best to change the oil immediately in case the gasoline made its way into your engine oil which is very likely.
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Old 05-02-2006, 12:30 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KD7000
Bent rods, busted valves.

When you say "it still wouldn't start" do you mean it won't turn over at all?
Yeah it wouldn't turn over at all.
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Old 05-02-2006, 12:30 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UTCiv
Well, I hope all goes well. If you get it running, it's probably best to change the oil immediately in case the gasoline made its way into your engine oil which is very likely.
now how would the gas into the oil?
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Old 05-02-2006, 12:53 AM   #10
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Weeping past the rings into the oil.

You generally don't have this problem while the engine's running because it's all in/out so fast, but when you have a fluid sitting in there for a while, it will make its way down into the oil.
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Old 05-02-2006, 12:56 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redgrocerygetter
now how would the gas into the oil?
the gas would get into the oil because the cylinders need to have some sort of clearance between them and the pistons (no matter how small that clearance is and how tight the pistons fit). This means that there is a way for gas to leak down into the oil (because gravity works that way).

Have you tried disconnecting the battery for an hour and totally clearing out the ecu? maybe that might help too?!?
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Old 05-02-2006, 03:12 PM   #12
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thanks for the help and info. How long should I let the car air out?
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Old 05-02-2006, 04:37 PM   #13
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I'd say a goodly long while. 24 hours should be sufficient. Just make sure you don't have anything that could cause a spark anywhere near your car while it's airing out.
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Old 05-02-2006, 04:54 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IronMonkeyL255
I'd say a goodly long while. 24 hours should be sufficient. Just make sure you don't have anything that could cause a spark anywhere near your car while it's airing out.
Got one more question for you. I just changed the oil about three days ago. I know you said change the oil but should I also change the new filter as well?
it's a Fram extended life.
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Old 05-02-2006, 04:56 PM   #15
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First thing you should do is ditch the Fram oil filter. Its been investigated several times on the web and proved that Fram filters are cheap pieces of crap. Get an OEM filter from the dealer, cost just as much as a Fram and be a helluva lot better. Or get a Wix.
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Old 05-02-2006, 05:40 PM   #16
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I would change the filter for 2 reasons: it's a FRAM, and it may trap some of the gas in it and contaminate your new oil. Luckily I haven't had this happen, but it never hurts to be on the safe side.

If you don't go OEM filter, go with Purolator/PureONE. Those are effectively the same as OEM, but a little less expensive and more widely available.

IIRC, someone dissected an OEM and a few others and found the OEM internals to be identical to the Purolator internals.

Just some food for thought.
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Old 05-02-2006, 06:46 PM   #17
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thanks for the info. I guess I'll stop buy the frams. Hey what do you guys think about the bosch filters? Don't have to answer if you don't want to. I'm just praying that I didn't get hydrolock but a lot of my friends are saying I didn't so I'm hoping there right. later fellas.

Aaron
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Old 05-02-2006, 09:39 PM   #18
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What do your friends know about hydrolock that we don't?

All your reported symptoms seem to point to it. Google "engine hydrolock" and you'll see.

I sure hope it's something simple that we're missing, of course.
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Old 05-02-2006, 10:07 PM   #19
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You should be able to put a breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt and rotate the engine. If it doesn't rotate or is extremely difficult to move, you're engine is probably toast. Hope that's not the case.

JD

P.S. Shameless plug, I have the longblock out of my 1997 Legacy GT for sale if you're interested. Needs a head gasket.
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Old 05-03-2006, 02:51 AM   #20
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problem found. Warped Valve. Yea. Can't turn the crank. Thanks for all the help guys.
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Old 05-03-2006, 03:09 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dobes
You should be able to put a breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt and rotate the engine.
I would have done this in the first place. Remove plugs, then crank motor by hand.
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Old 05-03-2006, 07:16 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redgrocerygetter
Now how would the gas into the oil?
Quote:
Originally Posted by janikphoto
The gas would get into the oil because the cylinders need to have some sort of clearance between them and the pistons (no matter how small that clearance is and how tight the pistons fit). This means that there is a way for gas to leak down into the oil (because gravity works that way).
Does gravity work left to right, or right to left ? My understanding is that the EJ25 along with most Subaru engines utilizes a "Boxer" configuration that makes the combustion chambers highly resistant to "leak down".

I am terribly sorry about your motor, redgrocerygetter
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Old 05-03-2006, 08:35 PM   #23
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Thanks for the suport. I was thinking the same thing. I found a lot of Gas inside my headers coming from the right hand side when I took it off to take out the engine. Maybe the exhuast valve got screwed thats why the gas leaked into the headers. Just looking for a parts engine maybe a 3.0 H6. Yeah if I can find one. Hopeing for a cheap one.
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Old 05-03-2006, 08:41 PM   #24
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You have to think about it a little harder, but it still applies.

Think about a single cylinder with standing fluid in the combustion chamber. The fluid at the bottom is under more pressure than the fluid at the top due to the weight of the fluid on top of it. This means that this fluid will be trying to go to a lower pressure area. It will find these minute gaps and leak through them into the lower pressure crankcase.

That's just my basic college physics understanding of it, so feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.

I would say they are more resistant than other engine types, but far from impervious.
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Old 05-04-2006, 02:51 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IronMonkeyL255
You have to think about it a little harder, but it still applies.

Think about a single cylinder with standing fluid in the combustion chamber. The fluid at the bottom is under more pressure than the fluid at the top due to the weight of the fluid on top of it. This means that this fluid will be trying to go to a lower pressure area. It will find these minute gaps and leak through them into the lower pressure crankcase.

That's just my basic college physics understanding of it, so feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.

I would say they are more resistant than other engine types, but far from impervious.
thanks for the input. I wasn't trying to make anyone mad by saying that I didn't think that the gas wouldn't seep into the crankcase. I was just thinking that because the engine is a boxer that it seems like it wouldn't because the way the cylinders are positioned. But I'm not an expert and all I have to go off of is a manual.
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