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Old 09-29-2006, 11:49 AM   #76
LetItSnow
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And you're missing these wires from... the PP6 harness?
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Old 09-29-2006, 02:04 PM   #77
DTSJR
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Yes, there are like 4 or 5 wires that the pp6 harness doesnt have. I called and left a message a rallitek, so Im waiting for them to get back to me.
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Old 09-29-2006, 02:31 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DTSJR View Post
Yes, there are like 4 or 5 wires that the pp6 harness doesnt have. I called and left a message a rallitek, so Im waiting for them to get back to me.

You have the updated version. We are not using the 'old style' wiring anymore. What year is your car? I can fax or email a wiring diagram to you. I apologize if there was not an updated wiring diagram with your unit. I will be checkking voice mails after lunch....

Sean S.
www.RalliTEK.com
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Old 09-29-2006, 05:38 PM   #79
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Can we gear this thread more toward how the pp6 works instead of how it burns up coil packs, The solution seems simple enough to me. Dont leave the key in the acc position. I just want to hear feedback from people who are using it. How does it control fuel? How hard is it to tune? Are the base maps any good? Basically I would like to hear if this is working for you and what are your mods?
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Old 09-29-2006, 06:00 PM   #80
LetItSnow
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I intend to head that way in another thread.

And again, ACC is not a problem. Key ON with the engine NOT RUNNING is the problem.
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Old 09-29-2006, 06:04 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rallitek.com View Post
We are not using the 'old style' wiring anymore.
Sean, the way that I'm understanding this is that you're suggesting consumers use the crank sensor wiring, and that the harnesses are shipped without the wires that are exclusively involved in the ignition signal wiring?

Last edited by LetItSnow; 10-01-2006 at 01:58 AM.
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Old 09-29-2006, 09:59 PM   #82
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I just finished wiring in the PP6 with the new diagram, but now the car wont start. It cranks, but doesnt fire. HELP!
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Old 10-10-2006, 12:26 AM   #83
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Hey Snow,
Can u please send email info. again on PM? I think I might be able to send you a map from my Smt6. Iam takin car to Vivid in morn to see if they can sort it out. Thinking about new motor and resultant re-wire.
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Old 10-10-2006, 06:31 AM   #84
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Can do. DTSJR is running now, too.
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Old 10-17-2006, 05:13 AM   #85
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My coilpack just blew with 2.2K resistors on the pull-ups. So much for that theory. I am going to use the crank signal as for my 2.5 RS there was no benefit in advancing timing (the car was not happy with any timing changes). So for me it's really a fueller that triggers a shift light.

Given the wacky software, crap instructions, 0 benefit in terms of timing, I would recommend looking at an alternative if you have a NA car.
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Old 10-17-2006, 05:52 PM   #86
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I posted above that the 2.2k resistors held no merit. Did your coilpack fail without having the key ON with the engine not running for any amount of time? I've been running for months with no trouble, which is why I ask.

Did you use a higher octane fuel when advancing timing?

I'm not trying to throw any defense toward the SMT6 in this question: Is there an alternative for the SMT6 that's not a standalone?
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Old 10-17-2006, 08:19 PM   #87
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Updated software and instructions are included with current units. We have had good dyno results with these units. I am sorry about your ignitor/coil. Newer setups are all crank input unless requested otherwise.

Sean S.
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Old 10-17-2006, 10:44 PM   #88
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Sean, what are the odds that I can get this new software? I can't seem to find anything more recent than June, 2005 on the PerfectPower webpage.
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Old 10-18-2006, 01:17 AM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LetItSnow View Post
Sean, what are the odds that I can get this new software? I can't seem to find anything more recent than June, 2005 on the PerfectPower webpage.
We have been working with PP South Africa on a new unit! It will be released in the next 2 months. I will dig up a copy of the latest software for you when I get to the office tomorrow.

Sean S.
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Old 10-21-2006, 08:47 PM   #90
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I guess there's the i-speed or forthcoming cobb access port. I'm not sure if the emanage or SAFC-II work, but the SMT6 is really just a generic piggy back and if as in my case you're only changing fuel there are probably other options. Some people on RS25.com seem to have personal experience of other options. Anyway; I've probably farted away enough of my time to cover the price diff for a WRX. Coil packs are about 300 US here, so I'm pissed off.

Sean, you refer to 'a new unit' and 'new software'; how is this unit different from a generic SMT6 and how is the new software different to the latest version on the PP site.

I only left the key on for very short periods; while I'd expect the voltage is regulated, I have an Optima yellow top battery which perhaps exacerbated the decline.

I have the newest software off the PP site; it's still 'odd'; esp with global settings (such as analog) being magically 'changed' in XP. According to AVO it's only reliable in Win 98. I spoke with another local tuner who now uses ECUTek (not available for RS) who had worked on a lot of PP6's and described it as 'a piece of *****'.

I'm using 98 Octane; maybe timing adj has merit with lower octane fuel (e.g. in US).

Sean, can you answer my question I emailed you about the bridge that never came with the unit? At the moment to bridge the PP6 out I'm using paper clips. Also, should the pull-ups be used when wiring to the crank? Are both the +ve/-ve signals used (according to the PP wiring diagrams they are).
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Old 10-22-2006, 04:20 AM   #91
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UPDATE [x-post from rs25.com]... have wired into crank (+ve only) with a pull-up. Gave up on ignition after coilpack blew.

Car running nicely on mode 20 with 12 teeth per turn, 20 teeth per firing, and the first two global settings on. The revs are stable, but too low (like when wired into the ignition in mode 12 without interlaced on). All of the other global settings cause the car to stumble or do nothing.

Also, I found the car runs in mode 10 but the RPM readings are very low. Is mode 20 the best choice if i only want to adjust fuel?

Am I right to use unipolar out? Bipolar also works but produces a diff voltage (I think it was lower)

Any ideas? I have an 03 RS 2.5 (EJ25)
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Old 10-22-2006, 12:49 PM   #92
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Default New version of PP6 coil pack friendly

The "new" PP6 is still the same old Perfect Power. It simply uses a different wiring so it only uses crank imput, versus the ignition wiring for determining timing/ignition.

However, this means that the global settings are different that the previous ignitor wiring setup, so you need to set the global settings accordingly. If you buy the PP6 from Rallitek, you should get all that correct info.


As for us old wiring setup guys that have the coilpack/ignitor problem? I am willing to bet a dollar to a donut that we can change over the wiring ourselves to mimic the new version. I have an extra PP6 sitting around which I will try to modify. All its doing as far as I can tell is using two different inputs into the PP6, thats why the global settings need to be changed.
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Old 10-22-2006, 06:21 PM   #93
phibes4000
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Are you saying the harness just has different coloured wires, or that the pin-outs have changed? I have a PP6 that I bought from Rallitek in July, so I'm guessing that it's old.

I've wired PP6's yellow wire to Engine-side Crank +ve (with pull-up) and Pink to ECU-side Crank +ve. Have not used Crank -ve. In Mode 20, other than the RPM reading being too low (about 50%), it runs fine.

Sorry to x-post vs rs25 (we can carry on our discussion re settings there).

*EDIT* The solution is to change the teeth per turn/firing to 7/20

Last edited by phibes4000; 10-26-2006 at 07:03 PM.
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Old 10-22-2006, 07:25 PM   #94
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The pinouts have changed AND where they moved to are now different colors with the "new" pp6, with regards to the ignition wiring (two wires).
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Old 10-23-2006, 02:47 PM   #95
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So...
Does it turn out that this thing is a piece of junk??? Sean said he couldn't figure that the PP6 was blowing my alternators. Guess what, I took it out and rewired harness back to stock as I am getting ready for WRX motor swap and ALL the dash lights came back up to full-strength. Turn signals no longer pulsate the dash. I haven't had the funny batt/brake light pulsation telling me that the alternator is on way out. So, again I say that my Perfect Power experience was less than perfect OTHER than the fact it pushed me into the PERFECT set-up, a GC8 with USDM WRX power!
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Old 10-23-2006, 05:34 PM   #96
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gianttcr, I hate to say it, but AFAIK yours is the only documented install with the electrical buggaboos you've encountered. There have been enough blown ignition coils to show that it's a trait associated with the PerfectPower-suggested wiring, and the reason for that is quite obvious know, but I haven't seen any other mention of alternator troubles. That pushes toward either a faulty unit, or (always possible!) faulty wiring.
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Old 10-23-2006, 11:21 PM   #97
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EVERY time there has been problems with customer installed units that have been inspected by Rallitek, it was always user wiring issues, NOT the PP6. From gross miswiring, to just plain bad wiring jobs.......

I had issues myself, turns out it had nothing to do with the PP6, just coincedence.
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Old 10-24-2006, 01:38 PM   #98
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gianttcr , That is a wiring issue you had. Something was not wired in correctly. Sounds like a ground wire was disturbed. Congrats on your swap. If you need me to test the P6 unit for you just send it in.

Sean S.
www.RalliTEK.com
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Old 10-24-2006, 01:48 PM   #99
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I have to agree with Sean and the other poster.

If the unit is installed incorrectly or "hacked" in you will have nothing but problems.

When we do a SMT6 install here we make sure that everything is soldered, shrink wrapped and wires are isolated from one another.

We have had ZERO wiring issues and when we educate the customers about the potential coil pack issue we haven't had a problem with any customers cars.

I have seen some horrible installs.... wires cut and simply twisted together, the use of vampire taps.. (shudder).... you get out of a system what you put into it.

The SMT6 isn't the all be all but it does work and is a nice entry-level device for tuning the car.

The next step from here would be the Greddy e-manage ultimate then you have to move into a stand alone like a Hydra.

Everything has its place and budget.

Not everyone can afford a $3000 Hydra.... I know I can't

I personally run a SMT6 and even having blown a coil pack myself I understand what the issue is and I deal with it.

Sometimes you have to pay to play..... if you don't like it... keep it stock.....

Sean and the guys at RalliTEK really are the Pioneers and true experts at the SMT6 and the Subaru... I trust them to know what they are talking about.

Sean.... I would love to hear what you guys are doing with the SMT6 and this new wiring schema you are using... if you would like to share you know how to reach me.....

D.
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Old 11-21-2006, 07:14 PM   #100
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Can we get some feedback from people who are using the pp6 on RS-Ts? I hear mixed reviews. How hard is it to use? Would you use it again if you had the chance? Do you have trouble tuning with it? Thanks
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