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Old 10-08-2001, 05:21 PM   #1
CRAZY KEN
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Default How does one prevent blown engines?

Do people recommend forged block, piston, and rods...hi perf. rings...lower compression ratio...WHAT WHAT...how does one blow an engine so easily...was it do to install, product, usage or vehicle!!!


CRAZY KEN
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Old 10-08-2001, 05:23 PM   #2
MattC
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Proper Tuning
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Old 10-08-2001, 05:24 PM   #3
Eric SS
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swap and N20. gone. : (

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It depends on what you mean and how much boost you are goign to run. For low boost applications it is a matter of tuning and if there was a flaw in the engine. For high boost applications is is about tuning and how durable the parts are. You can't get a forged block by the way That is almost an impossible question to answer becasue it is almost impossible to say what exactly caused the failure.

Eric

Edit: fixed all my lame typos

Last edited by Eric SS; 10-08-2001 at 05:40 PM.
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Old 10-08-2001, 05:31 PM   #4
Fido
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What the hell is 'tunding' and what exactly is a 'forgeb' block?
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Old 10-08-2001, 06:07 PM   #5
CRAZY KEN
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Default OK

I will be purchasing a turbo kit max. boost level will be 5 psi to be on the safe side...I currently have the following bolt-on mods:

1. Borla Headers

2. Stromung rear section exhaust (Soon to be upgraded to Brullen catback exhaust; 2.5" piping, Mild exhaust and a 3.5" tip)

3. Weapon-R Intake (will be replaced with something!!! )

4. Magnecor Wires 8.5mm (will be replaced with Magnecor 10mm wires if I get a turbo)

5. NGK spark plugs (will be replaced with Bosch Platinum 4+ if I get a turbo kit)

6. MSD DIS-2

7. UR Underdrive pulley (soon to be replaced with N1 lightened pulley set)

8. Zex Kit with a 55hp shot (will be uninstalled if I get a turbo kit)

9. Autometer Center Gauge pod with Air/Fuel Ratio Meter & Fuel Pressure Meter


I want to also add:

A-pillar pod with EGT and Boost (if I get a turbo kit otherwise somethingelse)

Apexi S-AFC

J&S Knock Retard System


What can I discard or add otherwise???


Thanks for your help.

CRAZY KEN
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Old 10-08-2001, 06:13 PM   #6
bsquare
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Get rid of the MSD, skip the Super AFC and the J&S and buy a TEC-II or a Haltech. It's strange that people are perfectly willing to spend $1300 in piggyback toys that are a pain in the ass to tune together, but think real engine management is just too expensive. A Haltech E6K should cost $1300 or so and will give you a far better system for avoiding damage to your engine.


Ben
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Old 10-08-2001, 06:29 PM   #7
SubaFastR
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The J&S Safeguard is still a great safety net for those that are new to the world of tuning. If you get a red light, you simply retard timing or add fuel at that rpm range. Good stuff.
Kevin
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Old 10-08-2001, 08:22 PM   #8
Wreckleford
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I think a lot of people are just afraid of that they will be in over their heads trying to tune from scratch.
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Old 10-08-2001, 11:01 PM   #9
bsquare
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There are enough maps floating around that you don't have to literally tune from scratch. Tuning with a TEC or Haltech is a lot easier than trying to get a bunch of piggybacks to work together, and the ability to load different maps for different situations is a big plus.


Ben
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Old 10-10-2001, 12:17 AM   #10
DaveK
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Yeah, I'd second the TEC thing. I started with a bunch of piggy backs then made the leap to the TEC-II...problem is, I seem to be the only one I know about trying to tune at 5500 feet. My numbers seem waaaay off what other TEC users seem to have.

Dave
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Old 10-10-2001, 10:50 PM   #11
SoobATV
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Default How does one prevent blown engines?

I hear that not downshifting into second when you aimed for high 4th gear resulting in 13,000 rpm usually saves the engine a bit
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Old 10-10-2001, 11:50 PM   #12
bsquare
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Heh, a friend of mine downshifted to 2nd instead of 4th at 110mph in his completely modified Camaro SS. The valves and pistons were destroyed. The Chevy dealer fixed it _under warranty_. If only Subaru dealers worked that way.


Ben
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Old 10-10-2001, 11:59 PM   #13
skywalker
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The only reason I have piggy backs is because it easier to buy them one at a time then to go and buy a Tec-II all at once. That is my reasoning, but I think I will be looking into selling all my piggybacks and upgrading to a Tec-II soon enough.

Question about the Tec-II, does it come with an Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator? Just wondering how it manages fuel delivery. I don't know enough about it to knwo whether I will need a FPR or not.
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Old 10-11-2001, 12:48 AM   #14
bsquare
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You'll only need a new regulator if you get an upgraded pump. At higher flow rates (not just higher pressures), the stock regulator can't return enough fuel.


Ben
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Old 10-11-2001, 11:44 AM   #15
RallyNavvie
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If you really don't want to wreck your engine, don't turbocharge it

Now since I know that obviously not the answer you're looking for then how 'bout this:
If you're absolutely set on piggyback systems then that J&S is the most valuable thing you'll be installing. I can't tell you how many times that thing has saved my block from freak ignition events. It is also a great tool for tuning. I had an AFC and ITC to go along with it for tuning, a RRFPR would help that too. Tune it properly and don't drive stupid with it you'll be fine.

New pistons are a great idea. Lower the compression on there and the engine is that much more compatible to your turbo system.

But the best method is to take the dive and get the engine management system. Leading the way is the Vishnu TEC-II which sounds like a great set-up. For about $1000 less you can get a Haltech, which is just as tunable but trickier to install. You may want to have a tuning place cut a harness for the Haltech so that will cost you another $300-400. But for about $1600 it's a good alternative to multiple tuning computers. Only disadvantage is you can't tune it on the fly, but you really shouldn't be doing that anyway.

~Garrett
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Old 10-11-2001, 01:14 PM   #16
Warp3
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Quote:
5. NGK spark plugs (will be replaced with Bosch Platinum 4+ if I get a turbo kit)
I've heard several people state that Bosch doesn't recommend the Platinum +4 plugs for forced-induction cars. I'd stick with the NGKs and just drop a step colder.

Shane -- http://www.warpthree.net
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