Originally Posted by reddevil
The "problem" with the SMT6 is that it is NOT plug and play. Just because you bought it, doesnt mean you are going to be able to successfully tune it, much less install it. At the minimum, basic knowledge is needed of how a vehicle is wired, how a MAF/MAP works, and so on.
Base maps are base maps, generally with ZEROs and just set up with the global paremeters setup so the vehicle will start. Sometimes premade maps will work with your car, but more often than not, they need tweaking.
One of the beautiful things with the SMT6 is that it can be wired in and controlled many many different ways to control so much. But that also makes it a serious handful. Basic information inputs used are TPS, MAF or MAP and RPM. Thats 3-4 variables. Now you can also add, for tuning purposes, Engine temp, Watertemp, Exhaust Gas Temp, Intake Air Temp and anything else that runs on a 0-5/0-10 volt output. You can't use them all, but you can use them in different configurations which can get damn confusing.
Unless something was screwy, ALL the manuals and basic wiring diagrams are ON the CD.
Tuning your own vehicle is doable, but just because it can be done, doesnt mean you are going to be able to. The more crazy the mods are, the harder it is going to be. Bigger injectors, bigger MAFs, boost on an NA ecu, are all tough nuts to crack. No wonder almost all piggybacks and standalones are sold only through tuners that tune them. The SMT6 gives you the option to skip the tuner, but also gives you the option of a huge headache.
Well, Well, Mr. Red, it appears you've danced this dance!
That was/is EXACTLY the problem, something screwy on the program disc. Riddle me this. When I first downloaded it to my desktop (5 zip files) I could open up wiring diagrams and pick '98 2.5rs. HOWEVER, when I tried to open that I got a "run-time failure" window and the program would shut down completely. Later, when I unzipped the files to my laptop (so, I wouldn't have to tune in the living room) I couldn't even open that icon. Sean later said I shouldn't be able to anyway. He said he sent the thing with parameters already, and he did. I later learned they were in the default map. I may look like a rookie but I think I got the thing pretty well installed for having NO paperwork, nothing everyone SAID should be there, and just a Modus scanner to work with. Of course this may have been at the cost of the motor, we'll see.
I can't tell you how long it took me to pull up ECU pin outs on Mitchells and cross-reference the harness, because I didn't have what you and all other Smt6 purchasers/installers apparently did. I STILL don't completely trust the programming OR the unit since, as I said before, its consistency fluctuates. I don't know if that might be the software or the unit. I went back and checked install. ALL wires soldered and heatshrinked, as well as continuity tested. So, I don't know. Living with it and hopefully it doesn't give up the magic smoke!
What I am saying is that there is NO guide included to even give you an idea of where to start or what things mean, and there should be. For instance, how is anyone supposed to know that "1" corresonds with 1 degree of timing if it's not written anywhere. Sean is really helpful but it's difficult to reach him at 9:00pm.
And besides, I would have been HAPPY to pay the guys at R-tek to pretune or even plan a trip to get it tuned correctly. However, when I reviewed the maps he later sent me, I don't think they are much further along than I anyway. To his credit, he told me THAT would be the case.
Speaking of tuning, how are you supposed to set "deflection"? I kept changing everything and screwing it up in an effort to get into the 94% column before Sean told me that it won't usually go in that one anyway! And as far as fuel goes, do YOU have any idea of how much value changes actually change voltage at MAP and what that means? Meaning, if you change those numbers, no book tells you how much each increment changes MAP voltage. I kept getting a flashing A/T temp light for a bad TPS on throttle let off until I realized it was dropping below minimum voltage (.2volts). That was from getting my ranges wrong.
All I can go by is feel to tune this thing. None of reading besides RPM are extremely accurate. For instance, AFR will be chillin' at 14.6 and all of a sudden it spikes to 26.4 and comes down again! WTF is that?!?!? I changed front O2 in effort to see if software would read faster but the O2 output voltage looks like it doesn't move much from a volt anyway. Sure would be nice if I could tune while getting an accurate reading from the O2! Sean basically told me it was a "feel" thing, because I would have to "real-world" tune the car by just driving it. That's cool, I can get my head around that. Unfortunately, "real-world" tuning means that too often you get up into the midrange blocks and all of a sudden the motor is pinging to death and you are sure a valve has just vacated its real estate and wishing you had a third hand to pull the timing back. Gee, it worked last night at that tuning!?!?!
By not having an initial starting point or an idea of what might be too much is how I feel I might have screwed up the motor. It sounds really "tingy" now. Maybe that's why Subaru programs them so rich.
Also, I do not have the "b" map wire hooked up. I just barely found out that it was ground applied, so will be hooking it up to a grounded switch on Sunday. However, you can still see ALL of the available maps in memory by clicking "load tuning map" under file. Believe me, there was no other map in there.
What are my final impressions? I think an "undo/goback" button would help heaps. Also, when you are tuning on the street, it's impossible to avoid all traffic. It would be nice if big changes required confirmation so you didn't accidently put in "-55" instead of "-5" like I did, and kill the motor in traffic. BUT, I think the greatest addition would be a users manual. I have amplifiers in the car that don't even have any warranty unless they are installed by a certified person (which I happen to be) and they STILL come with a tuning manual and describe which knobs/settings do what. I think that needs to be the case here. I understand that some parameters should only be available to the vending tuner, but if you're going to sell a piece like this and say it is user friendly, you need to make it as friendly as is practical. Finally, some consistent advice would be great. Sean told me lambda input could be used for tuning. Cool, I hooked it up. Figured I had to turn it on in Globals and all of a sudden car runs funny. Tried it inverse too, no luck. PP guy says can't use BOTH MAP and lambda. AHhhhHah! True that! PP guy says "interlaced signal" in Global should be "off". Clarifies by sending parameter/ECU pinout sheet. Seans parameters say "on". Turn it off...car runs funny. Who should I listen to next???
I think this thing is cool, I just think it should be a little further along considering how long it's been out. I also wish I could run the car how I had it in the first place (BESIDES BMW map!!!) tons of timing and no fuel, look out Nellie!!!!