%&*%^&*$ ok, one difference with Ohlins FPS struts vs d-specs on the install is that because the Ohlins are inverted, you can't use the "mouse pad and vice grips" method to hold the shaft to prevent it from spinning. Therefore, you MUST use pass-thru sockets and hex wrench.
BTW, anyone know the actual size of the hex wrench that fits?
(I haven't finished assembling because of this tool snafu)
Also... I wasted a lot of time fiddling with the right position for the spring compressors on the front springs. Because the fronts have barely 3 coils exposed (unlike your average import car), it's not so obvious where to put the spring compressors. And the compressors MUST span at least 3 coils... 2 is not enough
The problem with 3 now is that the compressor will get stuck in the perches. The only place I found that worked was one compressor goes about 2" in from the end of the bottom coil. The other compressor goes about 4" in from the end of the top coil. And unfortunately this is NOT 180 degrees apart... more like 160.
Another thing... make sure to orient the compressors so that the tightening nut of the compressor is pointing to the TOP of the strut. If it's pointing to the bottom, the perch has a tendency to get in the way of a wrench.
You need to majorly compress the springs because they won't sit nicely in the perches while you line up the top hat/perch. This is because the strut sits at an angle in the car and so the spring is tilted at an angle. This bring you to the next problem... make sure you have a hex t-wrench and pass thru socket set for the top nut. You have to tighten the nut (but not torque) at this time or else the pieces won't be aligned on the shaft.
Don't forget a 14mm washer for the rears to space the top nut away from the top hat. Often, the threads on the shaft don't "go deep enough" and the nut stop (due to lack of threads) before it makes contact with the top hat surface.