The following 2 steps must be followed closely, ONLY turn the cam gear pulleys in the directions shown below, doing otherwise could bend your valves!
18. Once you have the belt on the left 2 cam gear pulleys and over the crank gear pulley, let the belt hang there for a minute, using a breakerbar with 10mm hex key socket, rotate the lower drivers side cam gear pulley COUNTER CLOCKWISE until the double line points directly upwards and the single line points directly to the right and lines up with the line in the rear timing cover. If you use a ratchet ,the gear will probably try to spin on its own when you're getting close to where you want it, and you'll have to start over again..just be sure you rotate this gear COUNTER CLOCKWISE each time.
19. Route the belt according to the picture below, put it on all pulleys with the exception of the top cam gear pulley that you have not aligned yet (the metal one) and the lower left idler pulley you have left off. Using a 10mm hex drive socket and a 3/8" breakerbar (or a ratchet if that's all you've got), turn the cam gear pulley clockwise until the single line lines up with the top mark on the rear timing cover, and the double mark lines up with the double mark on the cam gear pulley below it. Once it does, slide the belt on. If you skip your chance at the alignment because the pulley turns on it's own, keep rotating it CLOCKWISE until you get it aligned.
20. Double-check that all of your timing belt marks line up with those of the single marks on all of the pulleys. Install tensioner (39 N-m / 28.9 ft lb). Now put the timing belt guide back on, allowing ~1mm of space between it and the timing belt itself (9.8 N-m / 7.2 ft lb) . If you loosened any of the other 3 timing belt guides on the corners of the rear timing belt covers, make sure to space those and tighten the bolts. BE SURE NOT TO LET THE BELT GUIDES BE MOUNTED TO WHERE THEY ARE TOUCHING THE BELT, DOING SO WILL RUIN THE BELT PREMATURELY!
21. Re-install the lower left-hand-side idler pulley and tighten bolt (39 N-m / 28.9 ft lb) . Pull screwdriver/allen key, or pin on tensioner and allow it to tighten the belt. Now is a good time to take the 22mm socket & breaker bar and rotate the motor a few revolutions and re-align all of your cam gears to make sure none of them are off (belt marks will be off, that's fine). If all is good, reassemble timing covers and bolt on crank pulley (put car back in 3rd gear to get it tight 127 N-m / 94 ft lb). Reinstall belts and adjust tension of belts (I leave about 1/4" of play when pressing firmly on the belt). Reinstall radiator, plug in fans, attach all radiator hoses. Close petcock valve.
Now let's add the coolant
MAKE SURE YOU PROPERLY "BURP" THE COOLING SYSTEM, FAILURE TO DO SO CAN CAUSE HEADGASKET FAILURE!
Here's the procedure I use:
* Take cap off of turbo coolant reservoir
* Fill with coolant until full, then squeeze the upper radiator hose a few times until it goes down, it will be "burping" air when you do this
* Repeat above process until you can no longer fit any more coolant in the tank
* Climb into the car, set the heater controls to full hot and set the blower speed to its highest setting
* Start the car and let it idle for about 30 seconds, adding coolant if the level goes down. Shut the car off, and now squeeze the upper radiator hose repeatedly, allowing any trapped air to dissipate, allowing more room for coolant
* Restart the car and let the car get close to operating temperature, the thermostat will open, and the coolant will circulate, keep burping the upper hose if you wish, just be careful not to touch the moving belts or power steering pulley. Keep the coolant topped off until it is almost warmed up
* Shut off the car when you can no longer get it to accept any more coolant when the engine is warm, replace the cap on the reservoir, and fill the coolant overflow tank located on the radiator to the full when HOT mark
Let me know if I left anything out, or am wrong about something so I can change it