Hey guys, I did this over my break and here are the facts, findings and results.
jsavage: if you want me to start my own thread i understand, but I just wanted all the info in this one since youre the originator. thanks for the contribution, here's mine regarding the use of yakima gear.
- Yakima Landing Pads #11 (2 pairs) <-- these are the same ones the 08+ STi/WRX uses, so they are popular amongst the subie community.
- Yakima Control Towers w/48" bars
- 10-32 thread tap
- 10-32 x 1.5" stainless steel socket head screws x4
- Drill + bits
- Center punch
- Measuring tools
1. Remove the rain gutter covers/strips to access the brackets you're going to drill/tap
2. Start with the DRIVER SIDE. The holes in the bracket are the perfect size for the 10-32 taps, so just thread those holes with the tap, slowly and do not force the tap. Use WD40 or cutting fluid to aid in threading. Every quarter turn clockwise, turn counter-clockwise to cut and remove the metal in order to not bung or jam up the tap (it could break if you don't do this).
Make sure the tap is perpendicular to the surface, so that the screws don't thread in at a weird angle. You're going to have to eyeball it.
3. On the PASSENGER SIDE, the holes are diagonal to the holes on the DRIVER SIDE, you cant use these existing holes. What I did was I made a tool to measure the distant out from one of the little nubs within the rail.
Here you can see the OE hole and the NEW hole drilled on the PASSENGER SIDE
4. Test fit the screws to make sure they thread in fine
5. Mark the hole locations with tape like how jsavage describes
6. Drill out a good size hole for the screws through the gutter strips
7. Mount the Landing Pads
My control towers arrive Tuesday, so Ill post pics of it complete later. For now, the Landing Pads can sit on the car. They are secure, and look super sleek.
Landing pads cost $35/pair and the control towers cost $160 complete without the bars.