I set everything up last night and went out for a tuning session today. All I can say is HOLY CRAP DOES THIS WORK WELL! Thanks to all those who answered my questions! I have updated my post for those who may be searching for this in the future.
Guys, I am going to do the hybrid setup with an AVC-R and the included 3 port valve. The AVC-R's valve is labeled with NO, NC & COM not with the apparently standard 1, 2 & 3. I compared diagrams in the install manuals from the Perrin solenoid, the Grimmspeed solenoid and the AVC-R which allowed me to create the following solenoid port cross reference.
The following ports on the Perrin solenoid equal the following AVC-R Ports:
AVC-R COM = Perrin 1
AVC-R NC= Perrin 2
AVC-R NO= Perrin 3
The following ports on the Grimmspeed solenoid equal the following AVC-R Ports:
AVC-R COM = Grimmspeed 2
AVC-R NC= Grimmspeed 1
AVC-R NO= Grimmspeed 3
(Note that the above has now been confirmed)
Based on my findings I hooked up the barb on the turbo to the COM port of the AVC-R solenoid (I can blow through this when unenergized) and the barb on the side of the EWG to the NO port (the air I blow through the COM port comes out of this port when unenergized). I am not sure what valve is pictured in this diagram but its clearly labeled NC and NO so the 3rd unlabeled port is the COM port. The following diagram shows exactly how I have my setup plumbed and it works very well. The ONLY exception is that my NC port is venting and not capped as suggested in the diagram
. Its also worth mentioning that the wastegate line is attached to the side port of my TiAL 44mm EWG but this could have easily been attached to a single port internal actuator.
After getting everything hooked up correctly I modified the settings in my AVC-R. My actual boost target in 4th gear is 27.5psi (1.9bar) as show on the AVC-R (shows up as 25PSI on my Hydra 2.6) so I set the AVC-R's boost to a static target of 2.5bar (~36PSI) and 90% duty cycle (as high as it can be set) across the board. I then turned the Hallman RX all the way down to the lowest boost setting. I wanted to verify that I would have no more boost than spring pressure before I did any WOT runs.
I went out for a drive and slowly built boost using the gas pedal until I got to spring pressure. I then jabbed it ever so slightly to verify that it would not go any higher. After doing this a few times I did three back to back WOT 4th gear pulls to redline just to be 100% sure. Each and every time the boost was perfectly at spring pressure even thought the AVC-R was set to 2.5bar and maxed out at 90% duty.
I ended up having to turn the Hallman six full turns before the car made more than wastegate pressure (1.3bar). Somewhere around nine full turns I determined that the car was spiking to around 31psi and then instantly coming back to 29psi and holding flat to redline so I backed the Hallman down 1/2 of a turn.
I then set out to dial in the settings on the AVC-R. I left the static 2.5bar boost target in place but I moved the duty map over to a dynamic table. I set 90% duty from 0RPM to 6500RPM and then dropped it to 60% duty from 6500 on up. This resulted in a perfect taper from 27.5psi to 23PSI at redline in 4th gear. 5th gear pulls were making a bit too much boost so I turned my attention to the start duty (gear dependant boost control).
Since the AVC-R can only control 5 gears of boost I long ago elected to use 2nd through 6th instead of 1st through 5th. That being the case, I set 20% + duty in 2nd, 15%+ duty in 3rd, 0% in 4th (the tuning gear) and -15% in 5th. Its my personal preference to reduce the car’s power in 6th gear to make it harder to obtain the 150+ MPH speeds I was seeing on the track (I do lapping days) so I set -50% duty in 6th (the max reduction) which resulted in 23psi max boost tapering to 19psi at redline.
I feel that this is a fantastic setup and I for the first time in a long time I am super excited about boost control instead of frustrated. Thanks again to everybody who answered my questions especially Ride5000!