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Old 10-05-2011, 10:30 AM   #27
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 198067
Join Date: Dec 2008
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: RAMSEY, NJ
2009 IMPREZA 2.5i 4d
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How to: Install Morimoto RetroQuik brackets on 08+ Subaru Impreza
Tools Required:
- Oven or heatgun
- Flat blade screwdriver
- Philips screwdriver
- small 8mm crescent wrench
- 8mm socket wrench
- Spring clamps
- Oven mitts/work gloves

- This is a demo of the complete bolt-on bi-xenon headlight upgrade for the 06-07 and 08+ Subaru Impreza headlights. The kit allows the Morimoto Mini bi-xenon projectors to mount inside the Impreza headlights with no permanent modifications/cutting/guess work.

- Discussion around this product here:,14903.0.html
- and more if you scroll down here:

- Kits are also available for other applications such as the new Mazda 3, Mazda 6, Toyota Camry, Toyota 4 runner, Scion TC, Scion xB.

Patent pending, 2010 The Retrofit Source LLC

Product used: Morimoto Retro-quik kit from The Retrofit Source
- Morimoto Mini D2S bi-xenon projectors
- Morimoto D2S bulbs
- Matsu****a Gen IV ballasts
- 06-10 Impreza mounting brackets
- Morimoto standalone H11 relay wire harness

Step 1: Remove all wiring, housing caps, bulb sockets, etc from back of headlight housings.


Step 2: Remove screws from the perimeter of the headlight housings.

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Step 3: Place the headlight into a pre-heated oven on the middle rack (or whatever area is farthest away from the heating elements) for 7 minutes at 275 degrees F. Do not walk away or forget what your doing!

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Step 4: Put on your oven mitts or work gloves and remove the headlight from the oven. Start prying away with your thin flat blade screw driver around the perimeter of the housing. Starting at a corner is usually best, and working the areas with the clips helps also. The headlight should separate relatively easily. (recommendation: put something down like cardboard box or towel so you dont scratch up the lens while working on the housing) Put the lens aside where it wont get dusty inside, scratched, etc.

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Step 5: Remove the turn signal reflector and amber diffuser.

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Step 6: Look at the backside of the housing, you will see one exposed aiming adjuster screw, and another one that is covered with a cap. Pop the cap off with a flat blade screw driver so you have access to both.


Step 7: Use your 8mm socket to loosen both aiming adjusters all the way (turn to the left as if they are just normal screws you're trying to un-do) this will release 2/3's of the mounts that hold the bracket inside the headlight.


Step 8: Locate the 3rd mount towards the middle of the bracket. You have 2 options here, either remove it from the bracket (like we did) or drill a small hole in it to get to the bottom screw and thus un-do the whole thing from the back of the housing. We opted for option A even though it takes a little longer, just to make this project fully mod-free.

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Step 9: Un-screw the stock halogen projector from the reflector bracket.


OEM halogen projector vs. Morimoto Mini D2S w/ RetroQuik brackets installed:


Step 10: Bolt the new Morimoto projector back onto the bracket using the original screws.

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Step 11: Clean the D2S light bulb with the provided alcohol prep pad and insert it into the back of the projector. The order of installation goes: Bulb, split metal ring, rubber washer, end-cap.


Step 12: Clean everything (inside of housing) projector lens, etc to make sure no dust, finger prints, etc will remain inside the sealed housings. Reinstall the finished assembly back into the housing in the reverse order it was removed in.

IMG_3691.jpg IMG_3688.jpg

Step 13: Put the turn signal reflector (that we removed in step 5) back into the housing. (leave the amber diffuser out if you want to go with clear corners)

IMG_3686.jpg IMG_3685.jpg

Step 14: Pre-heat oven back to 275 degrees F.


Step 14: Place the front lens back onto the housing in roughly the correct orientation.

Step 15: Re-heat the entire headlight housing to soften the original glue and press the two halves back together. Work your way around the edge with some pliers and make sure all of the clips on the back of the housing are lined up and holding onto their relative tabs on the front lens. Use some high tension spring clamps spaced evenly around the housing to hold the assembly together while the glue cools down and hardens. If any gap remains, you can use clear silicone caulk in between the two halves of the housing to ensure a perfect seal.


Step 16: Remove the igniter from the Matsu****a ballast (small screw on top face of ballast computer, and brown depression clip leading to the mesh cord). Then string the igniter through the hole on the bottom side of the housing so the bulb socket is inside, and the brown socket comes through the bottom.


Step 17: Place the included rubber o-ring on the flange of the Matsu****a ballast and bolt it up to the bottom of the housing. (silicone shown here, we're actually providing properly sized rubber o-rings now)

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Step 18: Reinstall all the items that were removed in step 1 to the back of the housing, plug in the ballasts to the Morimoto standalone harnesses, and remount the headlights. You can run the bi-xenon solenoid wires from the Morimoto projectors in with the wires that power the halogen high beam bulb (+/-) with the included crimp-on wire taps to make the bi-xenon high beams work along with the halogen high beams for added illumination.


Step 19: Mount the headlights back on the car.

Step 20: Refer to this post for aiming instructions:

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