View Single Post
Old 04-26-2012, 03:03 PM   #32
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 166490
Join Date: Dec 2007
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Harrisburg, PA
2011 WRX


Originally Posted by phenryiv1 View Post

That thread has pictures of the critical steps of the rear.

I needed/used:

1/2" drive (for taking suspension off of the car and putting it back on):
metric sockets
breaker bar
ratcheting wrench

I also used pass-thru sockets (seen in the link below) to aid in disassembling and re-assembling the spring/strut combo.

Metric box end wrenches

3/8" drive (to remove the upper mounts):
ratcheting wrench
metric sockets
Extension bar (12" I believe)

Jack and jackstands
Wheel chocks (or bricks) for the front wheels
Thanks! Now I just have to figure out what tools I don't have in my measly arsenal of tools

Originally Posted by lightgod86 View Post
Ok, well I installed the blacks on my non-revalved bilstiens on Sunday and have taken most of the week to really get a feel for them over a range of different road surfaces. I would have to say that the change is not drastic by any means. When the road surfaces are tough, for example there was a ton of construction in San Francisco when I went up there yesterday, you still feel like you are being tossed around and your car is being beaten (I feel like this is due to the shock valving, and less to do with the spring). On smoother roads with dips and smaller bumps, you can really feel that there is a bit more give in these springs and you dont get the strong "push" upwards which I always described as the "bounce".

As for ride height, I actually think these are a bit lower than the yellows, and maybe thats just because they are softer and just ride lower. Thinking about this when installing them, I did raise the rear circlip up one notch from middle to compensate, but it was so minute that you can barely tell.

I have noticed a "clunk" in the front end after installing these, but only when I hit speed bumps (which I drive over every day at work). Not sure what it is, as I have checked every bolt twice.

Overall, I do like these better than the yellows because they ARE a bit softer. That being said, I think the re-valve would also help reduce the jarring you get on rough surfaces. I still find that I can't really use my headrest in my car unless I am on smoother highways going highway speeds.
Thanks for the review. I get that clunk to hitting speed bumps and on some uneven pavement if we're talking about the same thing, but I much prefer it to the feeling and sound of maxing out the stock dampers going over potholes and such. I've just been chalking it up to the stiffer dampers.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

Last edited by Ying; 04-26-2012 at 03:09 PM.
Ying is offline   Reply With Quote