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Old 05-31-2012, 11:48 PM   #63
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 12588
Join Date: Nov 2001
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Down by the sea
Four Count 'em


Did the R&R today. With two punches sized for the spring pins, they were a snap to drive out/back in. Of all the issues, the cross-member presented the biggest challenge as the left and right attachment points wouldn't line up and I nearly borked the left-side bolt. Fortunately, got it back out and rethreaded/reinstalled.

Everything I did was pretty straight-forward and aimed most for ease of access. Here's my process:

1) Lift the car on a frame lift with the transmission in 5th gear -

2) Put a transmission stand under the forward-most part of the transmission (just aft of the exhaust pipe) and tighten it just enough to put tension on the transmission so it doesn't drop, tilt or move

3) Undo the front cross-member from the frame (two 17mm bolts), undo the center and rear cross-members from the transmission (total of 10 14mm bolts and nuts) - set these all aside

4) Undo the two 12mm spring bolts holding the catback pipe to the cat (at the donut gasket), pull the cat back pipe off its first (front) rubber hanger and swing it out of the way

5) Undo and remove the heat shielding above the exhaust system so that the shifter shaft brace, shaft and joint linkage are completely visible and accessable - there are three 12mm bolts and two 12mm nuts

6) As was mentioned previously, use a long, small-sized drift (I used a 6" 5/32") to punch out the inner spring pin, then use a long, larger-sized drift (I used a 6" 3/16") to punch out the outer spring pin. Hint - Tilt your smaller drift so it "catches" the side of the inner spring bolt as you drive it out. Hold them as they come out the top side of the housing so they don't get loose and bounce away somewhere unretrievable

7) Undo the single 12mm nut holding the shaft stay to the outer face of the forward stay bushing, undo the spring, and remove both the spring and the outer face

8) Undo the two 12mm bolts that hold the rear shaft stay bushing, pull the shaft stay and forward bushing off the transmission, then shift the shaft stay down and away from the shift linkage

9) Now undo the 12mm bolt and nut holding the joint between the shafts and remove the joint

10) Grind off the head of the riveted pin in the transmission-side of the joint, drive it out, and now the joint is ready to be re-bushed

11) Lube up the new bushes, press them into the joint on both axis

12) I used the 12mm OEM shouldered bolt because it fits perfectly into the joint where the ground-off the rivit-pin head used to be

13) As SubyS and Pat O mentioned, the shouldered bolt is a 10mm bolt, and the inside diameter of the bushing is 3/8" so there's no way to easily slide the shouldered bolt into the bushings inside the joint. I used a large vise to press the first bolt through the transmission-side of the joint and tightened the shoulder nut to 8.72.2 ft-lbs. I also ground off the excess threads to ensure more than enough clearance once reinstalled.

14) Slide the transmission side yoke with the joint bolted to it onto the transmission shaft. Align the joint to the shifter-side yoke using the original 10mm shouldered bolt and nut. Originally, the nut was on the bottom, but again, because of how tight the bushes are, you'll need to drive this through from the bottom and reattach the nut on top, so get a big drift pin and slowly/steadily drive it through until the bolt threads clear, then attach the nut and tighten it to 8.72.2 ft-lbs.

15) Re-pin the spring pins - do the large spring pin first, then, install the smaller pin. I used a reversed 10" 3/8" drive extension to start the larger pin, then turned it around and used the square end to drive it in the rest of the way. Then I used a 10" 1/4" drive extension with an appropriately-sized socket on the end to hold the smaller spring pin to start it into the hole, then used a large drift to drive it flush with the large spring pin.

Note of caution on reinstalling the spring pins - when propertly installed, they protrude from both sides of the transmission-side joint connector, so don't drive them flush when reinstalling them - reinstall so that both sides protrude equally. Initially, I drove them flush, which put them too far out on the other side, so I just drove them out again, then reinstalled them

16) Re-lube the shifter brace bushing, reattach the bushing, brace face and spring, reinstall the 12mm nut but leave it loose

17) Reattach and tighten the 12mm bolts (13.03.6 ft-lbs) holding the rear shifter bushing mount - hold the face so the spring attachment points line up, then tighten the face nut (8.72.2 ft-lbs) - reattach the spring to the face if it comes off.

18) Reinstall the heat shielding

19) Reinstall the catback system - tighten the spring bolts until they reach the end of their threads. I also lubed the hanger before I re-hung the catback

20) Reinstall the transmission cross members. Torque specs: Front cross-member (10114 ft-lbs); Center cross-member to front cross-member nuts (5111 ft-lbs), Center cross-member to rear cross-member bolts (5111 ft-lbs), and Center cross-member to rear transmission cushion nuts (277 ft-lbs); Rear cross-member bolts (5111 ft-lbs).

Enjoy your new-feeling shifter. Mine pre-upgrade was so sloppy that you could draw 10" circles in any gear. I still intend to do the bushings on the shifter itself (1/2" MDS Nylon), but even without that upgrade, my shifter is finally the "snick, snick" I remembered, with absolutely no slop in, or between, gears. I'm completely jazzed by the improvement.
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Last edited by Subietonic; 06-09-2012 at 10:23 AM. Reason: Edited for clarity - added torque specs
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