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Old 09-09-2012, 02:30 PM   #2
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 135007
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Plymouth, MA
2014 STi Hatch
Crystal Black Silica


Drivers Window - nasty first project...

I had the bad luck of having a dead motor with the window stuck in the up position. The window master switch was butchered by the pervious owner, but it still sort of works (replacement on its way). I was able to get a multimeter on it to validate the wires to the motor are functioning. Here is the situation, with all the previous owner's "handywork":

What does the window stuck in the up position mean? Its bad. Its bad because the procedure in the manual calls for the window removal to get the regulator out. You are supposed to lower it to get to the bolts! Its still possible of course, but takes some effort and planning so you don't lose your fingers in the process. A couple things I did to keep my fingers attached to my hand:

1. I left the pink plastic retainers and felt retainers in for friction to keep the window from crashing down at full rate of gravity.
2. I taped the window up with masking tape until I was ready to slowly lower it.

Unfortunately, my car has lots of old sound deadening on the doors which uses a black tar like adhesive that in the sun gets very nasty to work around (it liquifies in direct sunlight practically). Oh joy! It took about a half hour just to expose all the bolts that need removal. Here is a pic of that mess:

Here is a critical point I discovered doing this removal... the black window guide in the pic labeled "Guide 1" has to come out to get the regulator out. The reason is that the regulator once collapsed down straddles the guide. The window has to come out to get the guide out as well. Here was my sequence in the end:
1. Tape up the window as described above
2. Unbolt the lower slide bolts (the upper slide is attached to the window, the regulator scissors won't move until the lower slide bolts are freed)
Note there are only two bolts holding the window to the upper slide:
3. slowly push the window down to get the rightmost window bolt. (it will move when the lower slide is unbolted)
4. I was unable to access the left bolt in the service port because the window wouldn't go further than 2/3rds down, so I used a wrench and a mirror to find the bolt. Its not that hard.
5. Now the window is free from the regulator but still in the door. remove pink guides and felt guides.
6. Remove side mirror
7. pull window out. Notice all the damage to any tint you had Oops!
8. unbolt all 4 of the bolts holding the regulator assembly (labelled "Regulator Bolts(4)" in pic)
9. Unbolt and remove "Guide 1". Now the regulator assembly can come out.

In the next pic I've laid the regulator and the window out on the ground so you can see how the whole thing goes together. I wish I had this pic prior to starting the job, it would have made things much easier to envision. Working blind isn't that fun, even with a mirror as an aid.

In that pic "Guide 1" and "Guide 2" are the peices that slide into the black guides in the door. Some final thoughts on this job: Its not actually as hard as it looks. There are no cables or regulator wires or anything to destroy here. There are no moving parts that you can unintentionally screw up or bend easily really. The only caveat to that is the window motor. In the pic above if you remove the 3 screws that clock spring is going to push the rotating bracket away from the teeth. Its not that strong, I was able to force it back and reattach the motor.

So I'm still awaiting the new motor. Hopefully I'll have a working door by next weekend
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ToddMcF2002 is offline   Reply With Quote