Originally Posted by 69subaru360
Blast them off with an impact gun. If you don't have one just clamp some visegrips on the flexplate to hold it or stick a bar through the holes.
I'm told these bolts will sometimes get pretty rounded if you use an impact.
I ended up just looping a wire coat-hanger through a small hole in the flex-plate and wrapping it around the bottom engine stud. It was super effective, super cheap, and super easy. while it was on there i took off the crank pully to change the t-belt. to remove the crank pulley i threw on my 22mm socket on my 1/2" drive wrench and stood on it. One quick bounce and it was loose. super easy. (on that note, we removed the crank pully from my busted engine while it was still in the vehicle. e-brake+5th gear plus a breaker bar. no problems.)
I used the same coat-hanger method to remove/swap the flywheel. FWIW we had no problem installing the clutch without a spline tool for alignment. just eyeballed it real close. didn't seem to have any issues when we put the motor back in, the transmission slid right in once we got the engine angle equal to that of the trans.
Here are the differences i've found (so far) between an EJ253 from an automatic transmission vehicle (forgot what year) and my EJ253 from my manual transmission 2009 impreza:
1) The crank pulley from the manual has a hard rubber insert that is flush with the facing edge of the pulley. The automatic did not (maybe it came off during dissambly at the salvage yard?)
2) The manual transmission has a slotted guard that goes at the bottom of the engine, under the flywheel. The automatic did not come with such a beast. I'm guessing the torque converter has some sort of accomodation for this?
3) The manual transmission requires a small half round bracket/guard that goes above the crank gear to prevent the belt from jumping during engine braking. The auto does not have this piece.
4) When mounting the engine we discovered the male/femal relation of the stubby pins that connect the engine to the transmission were in slightly conflicting spots. Namely, there was a "male" pin in the engine from the automatic that alligned with a "male" pin in the transmission. Obviously, no good. pulled the engine up again, opened up a fresh can of MAP, heated the aluminum and wiggled the offending stud out with a pair of vice grips. We're betting this stud should've stayed in the auto transmission, and not the engine.
5) provided the engine starts (turns out my battery is pretty dead...) this will have been a very easy swap to do.