Any and all tips, small or large, are appreciated. From a small part to order, to a trick from BTDT. Any tools that i will need specifically?
First off, I have a 2005 STi. Basic info, Built short block, aps fmic, walbro 255, still on vf39, stock injectors, invidia dp, invidia cbe, k&n typhoon, competition clutch stg4 6 puck, fidanza flywheel....
Previous owner for some reason used factory throwout bearing with the competition clutch, and that thing is real noisy now, needs to be replaced. the biggest issue is oil leak, dripping onto the exhaust, makes a smoky drive. It's either rear main seal or the oil seperator plate next to it, so i figured I'd replace both both.
I have talked to a friend with a shop, lift and tranny jack. We are going to go the tranny route instead of pulling the motor. I've heard this job is doable either way, but we have a game plan with pulling the trans so thats how its going to be done this time. we are both mechanically competant, i've just never done any larger scale projects like this. My friend has done a couple clutches on 5 spd wrxs and some other under car projects on his, (clunk killer kit, bushings etc)
Here's what I have purchased:
Throwout bearing kit, including bearing, pilot bearing, clutch alignment tool.
OEM Rear main seal, lithium grease to install
Oil seperator plate, and new hardware, permatex ultra grey to install
5 qts Extra-S transmission fluid, t-70 torx bit to drain.
1 liter OEM LSD rear differential fluid, to fluid change the rear diff.
5 qts Oil and Filter.
group N Transmission mount
Turn In concepts transmission crossmember bushings
Perrin Shifter Bushings
hand siphon pump to fill rear diff fluid
long transmission fluid funnel to fill transmission
I've been told that the spring pins should be replaced for the separation and reinstallation of the axles to the transmission lots of other threads said they re-used.
Also read that both the drain bolts for the trans fluid have washers that should be replaced, also lots of threads saying people reused. Oil pan side tightened to 52.6 ft/lbs, clutch housing side 32.5 ft/lbs. rear diff fluid plug to 36.2 ft/lbs.
came across something about a crankshaft stopper tool? rear diff plug removal tool? (you can use 1/2" ratchet right?)
Some info i gathered from another thread:
1) Ground clearance: You will probably want the car as high off the ground as possible (at least 24-30" from floor to chassis) to make clearance for the transmission to come down and back a ways.
2) Transmission weight: The STI transmission clocks in just under 200lbs by itself dry. Might not be a problem for you, but my tranny outweighs me by at least 40 lbs (hence my purchase of a transmission jack)
3) Fluid: If you want to make less of a mess, drain the transmission beforehand.
4) Clutch fork pin: Don't forget to pull the pin from the clutch fork before separating the transmission from the engine. Make your life easier. (Tip taught to me from idget: once you get the pin's cover off of the transmission, you will need a threaded bolt to pull the pin. Use your battery tie-down J-Rod, it's a perfect thread pitch and is plenty long enough for you to get a good grab on it)
5) Fill fluids when car is on level surface to ensure correct amounts.
With the rear main seal, you don't want to push it all the way in until it stops, have it flush or as close to flush with the block as possible. Tips for pulling old seal out? I saw a thread to drill a screw into the seal and use back of hammer or prybar and pull it out? tips for installing new one? Piece of pvc same diameter and press in with that to make sure it goes in evenly?
with the oil seperator plate, you want to clean both mating surfaces as best as possible, have them completely dry, and apply a thin 1/8" bead of sealant around it and allow proper curing.
please let me know if i am overlooking anything.