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Old 11-06-2012, 11:51 AM   #5
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 90608
Join Date: Jul 2005
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Vermont & St. Simons Georgia
2005 STI, '08 3.0R
05 2.5RS, 92 Legacy L


As far as the seal goes, every thread and picture i've come across says to have it flush with the block. I've seen some that are a hair in, and some that are a hair out. i just dont want to have to do it again, at least for awhile. I think as long as I'm close to flush (not pressing it all the way in which I've seen a lot of people do) I will be alright.

Came across this removal technique:

Use 1 to 3 drywall screws and drive them into seal with a drill about 1/2" or so

Using a prybar (could probably use a claw hammer as well), pry up on the screws. Sometimes the whole seal will pop out with 1 screw, if not, pry on all screws a bit at a time.

Clean crank surface and inside of sealed area with a shop towel

Fill inner groove of new rear main seal with a lithium grease / assembly lube

Hold seal against crank and keep it aligned with your hand while driving it in with a plastic-tip hammer. As soon as it starts to go on a bit, tap the opposite sides in a criss-cross pattern to keep it going on evenly. Drive the seal to where it is even with the block surface.

I don't think I will do the hammer technique as it seems like you risk not installing the seal evenly, i will get a piece of PVC piping the same diameter and press in evenly. but it looks liike a good technique for removal.

found a random pic of pushed all the way in. this is what not to do:

most of the images i've come across of untouched, factory installed ones before installing a new one show this depth: (a hair out of the block)
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Last edited by VTSubieRS; 11-06-2012 at 11:59 AM.
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