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Old 01-14-2013, 05:32 PM   #104
satrya
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 5887
Join Date: Apr 2001
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: Fremont, CA USA
Vehicle:
2002 GDAA (bugeye)
797 (blaze yellow)

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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkfx View Post
since I'd have to hack the harness, can you let me know what goes where? Just seems silly to buy a harness, only to hack it up and build my own.

that IS a good idea about buying a replica housing, but i'm wondering if baking it made it cloudy?
I wouldn't know how the wiring works; plus the fact that the oem low/high bulb connector powers up somewhat strange combinations when I tested it:

See how in low beam mode, both left and center pins measure positive with respect to the right one, and in high beam mode, only the center pin measure positive w.r.t. the left one. Sorting this out using a home made wiring might be quite tricky. The TRS harness still needs to be re-pinned, but that's it.

The complication of making your own is that you may need two separate circuits with a diode as inputs to the ballast, one from the oem low beam output, another from the high beam output. Otherwise, your ballast is powered in low beam mode, and then only your solenoids are powered in high beam (but no light of course). Better buy a harness and let the controller take care of it imho.

But if you insist, here is a thread on wiring harnesses:
http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...s-amp-Examples
Note that the first mention of 9004/9007 is for a positive switched, not positive ground. So in the end, buying the harness is better unless you want to do the basic legwork.

Another option is to pay retrofitters to make the custom harness for you starting from the already cut-out wiring that you have.

Baking should not make it cloudy. Hazy/cloudy lens is typically caused by uv exposure outdoors. When retrofitting headlights, haze could form inside when using many types of silicone based sealant. As long as you go with butyl sealant (or know which silicone sealant doesn't outgass as much), you should be ok.
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