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Old 10-12-2003, 03:03 PM   #13
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 10041
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Marietta, Ga.
2015 WRX Limited CVT

Default Yo

1. Thanks for the responses. Basicaly wat I'm seeing is what I suspected after the post before my last one; adding fuel "cools" combustion chamber but too much adding to the factor that fuel remains that "could" cause knock before the next planned combustion cycle.
2. Most people agree that you want the EGT sensor as close to the engine, exhaust manifold, to obtain the most accurate readings. It seems like many aftermarket uppipes have two bungs, one for the factory EGT and the other was for the WB O2, at least this is what I thought it was for until many people shared the idea that the pressure before the turbo causes false readings. I've looked at some aftermarket downpipe manufacturers which inlcude a bung for the WB O2 sensor. I haven't literally looked recently but I remember seeing some a while back.
3. I finally changed the TPS to 100, it was at 99% w/ the default setting of 4.0. I changed it to 3.9 and now I have 103% when at WOT. Many people have stated that it's ok to be a "little" above 100% so I'm fine w/ the results.
4. I noticed the safety measures in the UTEC for coolant and air temp correction are set to 100C by default which is 212F? Isn't that like a little high for air temperature correction? Should it be like 100F, I'm assuming the air temp is the ambiant temperature of the outside. Basically what I want is that when it's say ... 90F+ degrees outside I want the UTEC to pull 1 degree of timing across the whole map to prevent knock caused my higher heated air. Would I change the default air correction = 32.2C and timing correction = -1? I know how heat kills the fun out of FI cars, I just want to be safe in 90+ humid weather. I also assume the MAF senses correct outside temperature, so if the outside temperature is 90F then by the time the air hits the MAF it should still be around 90F or is it hotter?
5. When I "cruise" at say 1st or even 2nd gear at any rpms between 3-5 and suddenly go WOT, sometimes I get knock. I happens less in cold dry days and definitely more often in hot humid days. It seems like the car's ECU is on a vacation and not responding fast enough. I've read to copy the timing from the 50% load column and paste into the 10% columns, does it really work? Wouldn't the ECU still be "confused" since you're going from the control of the ECU > UTEC > ECU "very" quickly?
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