Thread: Time Attack BRZ
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Old 12-16-2018, 05:59 AM   #29
JDwhiteWRX
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 190502
Join Date: Sep 2008
Chapter/Region: International
Location: Sydney, Australia
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So I did all my measurements of the rear suspension to see what the camber is doing in roll, bump or both which is basically what happens in a corner.

With the car sitting at my lowest ride height it was giving a fair amount of camber gain in bump which is probably not ideal. What I found though was that at this low ride height which is like super low (90mm to the pinch welds under the sills) is that my drive shaft angles for the diff would be a little extreme and maybe at risk of fouling on the frame.

Luckily I built the diff mounts with the ability to raise the diff 25mm if needed. So with the diff raised and the ride height lifted about 20mm everything was looking perfect again.

This is an old photo to show how removing one spacer allows me to raise the diff.



at the rear mounts it simply moves up one hole.



So here it is with the slightly lifted rear ride height and the mock up drive shaft showing zero degrees at the position it would be in with the diff lifted.



With the new ride height I re-measured the inner pivot positions and put them in my software. The camber gain is now much better.

Moving to the front of the car now.

I have been going round in circles with my suspension design for many weeks but I am now at a point where I think I am happy enough to start with the fabrication side of things. I will build enough adjustability into it anyway so I can fine tune it later. Similar to how I did the rear end.

Today I measured where my tyres would be sitting and begun removing metal that would foul on the tyres. Under the rules I must retain the strut towers but I am free to remove material for tyre clearance.

In this photo you can see black dotted marks where the tyres would hit on the left of this line.
Note everything in front of the strut towers will come off at a later date and be replaced with tube but I need to keep it for now so I can mount the standard panels and make fiberglass molds.



After lots of cutting and drilling of spot welds.



Side view.



With that gone it will be much easier to work on as I make the new control arm mounts. The plan is to run tube from the roll cage up to the strut towers and back down to the main chassis rails to triangulate everything.

This will also help with venting the wheel wells for better aero. I will be doing a bit more trimming around that area to create some smooth transitions for air to escape.
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