View Single Post
Old 02-25-2013, 07:48 AM   #41
fastblueufo
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 212154
Join Date: May 2009
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: fast performance tuning
Vehicle:
02 billet crank
pauter rods, pt5857, E85

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by maxpowr View Post
His ignorance is followed up with a stone ball hone on the other end of an electric drill for the sleeves to get hatching back. I'm like Dood...I've done that and burnt rings up stupid fast. Ball hone is too aggressive.

What guys will do to make money on the backs of people who don't know better.

Sorry, I have a conscience. And I don't think my machinist is ripping me off.

PS my engine is still running..
I've used a ball hone on many engines without issue. You can order different grit. Not all work will come back perfect from the machine shop. An block may come back with .0025 when I asked for .003. A cylinder or two may be .0025 at the top and .003 at the bottom. Most people will just throw it together like that. And since the top of the piston to the bottom can vary by .010 or more (top being smaller) it would run without issue. I personally will hone the cylinder back as close as possible to true with a normal hone on a drill. Then hit it about 30 or so strokes at low speed with a ball hone to get the crosshatch in. Some people with go back over with a platue hone to smooth the ridges. I personally only prefer a ball hone with a grit of around 240-260. I've used a 220 grit before without issue. Motor running at 30( miles now and doesn't burn a drop of oil.

I find your statement kinda harsh with regards to ball honing.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
fastblueufo is offline   Reply With Quote