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Old 11-23-2012, 01:44 PM   #43
Scooby Guru
Member#: 88501
Join Date: Jun 2005
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: NorCal
2011 WRX Hatch
Dark Grey


Originally Posted by redrexmeister View Post
thanks, do you remember part number/manufacturer. Our local Vatozone had only M12 washers, the salesman claimed it was biggest size they have. I may try to order online.

Did the washer help to eliminate rear clunk?

Also, considering D-specs are sedan strats how is the alignment? Can you still get within OEM specs? or need camber bolts?
Locally, we had M14's too... but I guess that's up to the store.

I actually have Ohlins FPS (sedan) struts on my wagon so the rear clunk issue was never present. However, I did note that without the washer, the top nut ran out of threads before it was actually holding the top hat flush; ie there was top hat play and I could clack it up and down. With the washer, the nut is able to hold the hat down. So I'd say I needed the washers.

As for camber... you have no choice but to do SOMETHING about it. I never aligned it with only sedan struts because I already knew that wasn't going to work. You'd get something closer to 0 camber max with sedan struts and that just defeats the whole purpose of a more performance oriented suspension over stock.

So I'd recommend just getting the Whiteline Com-C's to go with your new D-specs. You probably don't want to be using old top hats anyways, and if you're going to buy new hats you might as well buy the com-c's.

That being said, with Com-C's I could only get a lousy -1.0 camber max out of them. Which SUCKED. So now I'm working on the slotting solution with the Com-C's (because I like the caster). And/or the H&R Triple-C's camber bolts in the front lower. (H&R's have a torque spec much closer to the stock bolts... wayyy more than the SPC camber bolts). This is a work in progress. You last, most costly and most correct solution would be sedan arms (and sedan sway bar, endlinks, probably axel).

In the rear, I'm not sure. I had SPC camber bolts in the top.
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