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Old 08-06-2019, 08:47 AM   #8231
rst.ack
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 500326
Join Date: Apr 2019
Chapter/Region: International
Location: Australia
Vehicle:
2015 WRX Premium 6MT

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Thanks for the info guys -- couple of questions if you can bear with me.

I could well be overthinking this given they would be going on a daily, but I figured I might as well do my homework if I'm spending close to $3k.

Quote:
Originally Posted by YungBoba View Post
Otherwise a +38 or even a +40 would look better at the height I'm at.
Good to know, thanks. I'd prefer to avoid having to roll my fenders for now so this is comforting.


Quote:
Originally Posted by YungBoba View Post
I will say that the steering does feel quite a bit heavier over stock, which was to be expected.

[...]

If I were to do it all over again I'd go with a 9 wide rather than 9.5 to still retain some of the steering and turn-in sharpness.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Norm Peterson View Post
Lateral stiffness and other tire stiffnesses go up with increases in rim width. That generally improves turn-in response and steering precision, given the same tire mfr/model/size. The steering may feel heavier, but that's not the same thing.
Is it me not reading right or am I getting conflicting information here? Seems like YungBoba is saying the narrower wheel gives better turn-in response and Norm is saying the opposite. Which one is it, and can you back it up with anything?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Norm Peterson View Post
265/35 will have a slightly more rounded sidewall shape on 9" wheels. But the actual section width (that 265 number) shrinks to about 260. No free lunch.
With that in mind would it be more worth my while going for a 255/35 which would retain a squarer sidewall and (I'm assuming) a more true-to-form section width? The other obvious benefit of doing this is narrower tyres are often cheaper.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Norm Peterson View Post
Best to check with the wheel supplier. Sometimes a wheel design does not permit the use of sockets for standard lug nuts, and I've seen where some aftermarket wheels used a completely different type of lug nut from OE.

Stay away from aluminum lug nuts, no matter how pretty they might look.

Norm
I've seen Muteki lugs get recommended in a few places - can anyone corroborate the recommendation?


Quote:
Originally Posted by akahenry View Post
For a daily driven car, I'd go with the 18x9 +35 sizing, with either your choice of a 245/40r18 or 255/40r18 sized tire. You can alternatively go with a 255/35r18 tire to retain almost stock-like speedometer.
Wouldn't 265/35 be closer to stock diameter?

If my maths is correct, 235/45r17 (stock) have an overall diameter of ~643.3mm ((235*0.45)*2+457.2 where 431.8=17 inches) and 265/35r18 have an overall diameter of ~642.7mm ((265*0.35)*2+457.2 where 457.2=18 inches), whereas 255/35r18 have an overall diameter ~10mm less, sitting at ~635.7mm ((255*0.35)*2+457.2 where 457.2=18 inches).

This is all assuming the mounted tyre doesn't change diameter compared to when it's unmounted.
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