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Old 05-31-2013, 06:03 PM   #773
Skankyfrankie
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 354906
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Moses Lake, WA
Vehicle:
07 WRX
Black

Default

If you decide to leave the B passenger side valve pull 60 amp blower fuse and the 10 amp valve "Air cut" fuse if you go that route, this should leave both valves closed. I was just getting so many codes, valve stuck open, valve stuck closed, Bank 1 pressure fail, blower malfuction etc that I did not trust it to be closed and they turned out to both be stuck open.

I used the cobb accesport, connected and married to car where it automatically saves your stock map. Then through their Race Tuner software I made a stock map minus the AP codes and while I was at it I made myself an extra Stage 1 minus AP codes. Stage 1 has better throttle response and more power so that is how I left it. Cobb access port new $500, I got a used unmarried one for $380. All the cobb software is free but you have to first request it then download it in order, accessport first then once that is DL you have to request and DL racetuner. There are cheaper ways to do this and I may someday do it that way and sell the Cobb but for now it drives better so 400 was worth it, until the kid rocks my gas bill with her new found power that is. I told he she is just one click away from back to stock so...
There is a good list of codes to disable here in this post, however it is missing P1410. Oh and I left the relays in place but pulled the fuses, if I ever have to pass inspection I will just plug the fuses back in for show. I first cleared all the ECU CEL codes then did the Cobb stock flash minus AP, not sure if I had to do it this way but I did and this also cured the flashing CC light as well. Then once the car was back to normal power I flashed the Stage One minus AP.
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Last edited by Skankyfrankie; 05-31-2013 at 06:10 PM.
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