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Old 12-19-2013, 12:40 PM   #526
xluben
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXt4cy View Post
Ahh - so what did you do with the heads in regards to AVCS? Just running without or did you do something else?

Your ECU supports the CarBerry rom which has some pretty cool features like speed density, LC w/ boost, FFS, etc.

If you ever miss a gear your engine is going to be like
Running non-AVCS with the CarBerry ROM on speed density. The ignition cut LC is pretty crazy. Seems to be pretty hard on things though I'll try not to miss a gear....
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Old 12-19-2013, 12:52 PM   #527
WRXt4cy
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Originally Posted by xluben View Post
Running non-AVCS with the CarBerry ROM on speed density. The ignition cut LC is pretty crazy. Seems to be pretty hard on things though I'll try not to miss a gear....
Haha, yeah spark cut is probably not good for much longevity. I tried it on a friend's car when I was tuning with the CarBerry rom and it was pretty violent. Here's a launch with spark cut and building about 25 psi. Pretty much just roasted the tires and smoked the clutch


Fuel cut LC with boost works really well though. Did you experiment with LC timing/fueling to build boost?

How come you aren't using the FFS feature with this rom?
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Old 12-19-2013, 02:02 PM   #528
xluben
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Originally Posted by WRXt4cy View Post
Haha, yeah spark cut is probably not good for much longevity. I tried it on a friend's car when I was tuning with the CarBerry rom and it was pretty violent. Here's a launch with spark cut and building about 25 psi. Pretty much just roasted the tires and smoked the clutch

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gYzLjKxM0fc

Fuel cut LC with boost works really well though. Did you experiment with LC timing/fueling to build boost?

How come you aren't using the FFS feature with this rom?
One of the NF guys has a GC with a 6266 and ignition cut LC set up. Shoots lots of flames and is really loud. I got to take it down the strip and it basically just builds full boost instantly.

Nuke has had some good luck playing with timing and fueling along with the fuel cut LC and gotten some decent boost off the line. That is what is used for the Speeding Bullet STI that ran in the 9's.

I didn't think FFS worked with DBC? How does it reduce the rev's when the gas is all the way to the floor. Isn't the throttle just staying wide open? Never really looked into it before I guess.
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Old 12-19-2013, 02:10 PM   #529
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Now that I think about it, I did mention FFS to Nuke and he said that hardware changes were needed. I just looked it up and it just looks like wiring in the clutch switch a little differently. I'm not sure I completely understand it, but it doesn't look too complex. I might have to explore this option in the future.
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Old 12-19-2013, 02:24 PM   #530
WRXt4cy
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Originally Posted by xluben View Post
Now that I think about it, I did mention FFS to Nuke and he said that hardware changes were needed. I just looked it up and it just looks like wiring in the clutch switch a little differently. I'm not sure I completely understand it, but it doesn't look too complex. I might have to explore this option in the future.
Yup, you got it!

Its not about reducing revs by closing the throttle, its about cutting fuel for a split second so you can complete the shift without the revs climbing. You want the throttle to say open so your manifold stays pressurized, the bypass stays closed and the turbo stays spooled. If the no-lift conditions are met, for example, throttle > 70, and the clutch switch is triggered then the ECU cuts fuel down to the rpm that it calculates the next gear to come in at to be rev matched. Think of it like dynamic rolling launch control that sits at the rpm where the next gear comes in. When you shift fast its perfectly seemless, if you shift slow for some reason, the ecu holds the revs until you lift the clutch.
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Old 12-19-2013, 02:33 PM   #531
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So it works just like the COBB FFS on the newer cars? I always thought that closed the throttle to drop the revs. If the only thing that is missing is the clutch signal, that's simple enough. Doesn't the ECU already see this, or is cruise control a completely separate entity on these cars? What I read it wasn't really clear on what ECU input it needs to be tied into?
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Old 12-19-2013, 02:43 PM   #532
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Originally Posted by xluben View Post
So it works just like the COBB FFS on the newer cars? I always thought that closed the throttle to drop the revs. If the only thing that is missing is the clutch signal, that's simple enough. Doesn't the ECU already see this, or is cruise control a completely separate entity on these cars? What I read it wasn't really clear on what ECU input it needs to be tied into?
makes sense. if it closed throttle it would result in less boost(zero?) and it wouldn't be as beneficial.
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Old 12-19-2013, 02:54 PM   #533
WRXt4cy
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Originally Posted by xluben View Post
So it works just like the COBB FFS on the newer cars? I always thought that closed the throttle to drop the revs. If the only thing that is missing is the clutch signal, that's simple enough. Doesn't the ECU already see this, or is cruise control a completely separate entity on these cars? What I read it wasn't really clear on what ECU input it needs to be tied into?
Nope! It works the same way where it cuts fuel to drop the revs and lets the throttle stay open.

This thread has the info about wiring up the clutch switch. I wonder if this is only needed on certain years (maybe 02-03?) because the car I tuned was an 05 WRX running an 02 ECU and I believe it was cutting fuel on FFS without any wiring mods. The owner shifts quicker than anyone I know so perhaps it just seemed like it was cutting. I can't tell looking back at his logs and we didn't give it fair test with a slow shift. I'll have him try a slow shift and let me know if it cuts or not.

I need a few things for my wife's 02 and then its getting this rom so I'll be able to try it out on there and see what needed for FFS.
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Old 12-19-2013, 03:01 PM   #534
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Originally Posted by SenorDucK View Post
makes sense. if it closed throttle it would result in less boost(zero?) and it wouldn't be as beneficial.
Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXt4cy View Post
Nope! It works the same way where it cuts fuel to drop the revs and lets the throttle stay open.

This thread has the info about wiring up the clutch switch. I wonder if this is only needed on certain years (maybe 02-03?) because the car I tuned was an 05 WRX running an 02 ECU and I believe it was cutting fuel on FFS without any wiring mods. The owner shifts quicker than anyone I know so perhaps it just seemed like it was cutting. I can't tell looking back at his logs and we didn't give it fair test with a slow shift. I'll have him try a slow shift and let me know if it cuts or not.

I need a few things for my wife's 02 and then its getting this rom so I'll be able to try it out on there and see what needed for FFS.
Yeah, I guess I had made a wrong assumption. What you're saying makes sense. You want the throttle to stay open, that's the point. I was looking at that thread, but it wasn't real clear what the ECU "input" is supposed to be.

I had FFS set up on my 2011. If you shift slow it's very obvious and works extremely well. You can FFS at a pretty leisurely rate and it still keeps boost up (unlike lift shifting). If you shift fast you can't really tell the difference either way. Even without the software set up you can't tell when you're in the car. You do see the needle jump in the videos, but it's not obvious when actually in the car.
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Old 12-19-2013, 03:25 PM   #535
WRXt4cy
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Yeah... there isn't very much info on wiring this up but I bet you could PM the guy that created this rom. Going off the rom itself, it had a few different inputs you can select for the clutch switch activation input but the only one you probably want to use is called the TID switch. It has something to do with do with auto-tranny logic but I don't know what exactly. Obviously you don't need that. The input says "E1" at the ecu.

If/When I do this, I'll be trying the method with the diodes in order to keep cruise control working and I'll figure out which pin is E1 and connect to that and see if I can log the clutch switch input before I try a FFS with it.
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Old 12-19-2013, 03:30 PM   #536
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If you can figure out the pin, that would be all I need (assuming I can find the clutch switch). I would probably just snip the wires since cruise control isn't a big deal to me. It seems like it would be pretty quick and painless if you know what wire to splice into.

You should be able to test it pretty easily without actually doing a FFS. Just get up to speed, push in the clutch, and then go WOT. If it goes all the way to redline, then it's not working. If it bounces at your FFS RPM then you're good.

I had to test FFS a bunch of times when we were trying to get it to work on my 2011 on open source. I think my car was the first that got the tinywrx FFS patch working (on the 2011 ROM). It took a few revisions before it would work right.
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Old 01-09-2014, 09:28 PM   #537
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Time for a new BOV.

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Old 01-09-2014, 10:54 PM   #538
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Very nice, I am excited for my BOV to get here too. Why are you replacing it? And is that a new intercooler underneath?
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Old 01-10-2014, 09:06 AM   #539
xluben
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Very nice, I am excited for my BOV to get here too. Why are you replacing it? And is that a new intercooler underneath?
I had put on a TurboSmart Dual Port, but I'm swapping to a TurboXS BOV for fitment reasons. The TurboSmart will be for sale once it's off the car.
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Old 01-10-2014, 11:24 AM   #540
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Looking good
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Old 01-10-2014, 12:27 PM   #541
xluben
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More photos of new parts:

















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Old 01-10-2014, 02:24 PM   #542
thatsilverwrx
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Should've known when you said "fitment reasons" Haha. car is awesome man, keep at it!
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Old 01-10-2014, 02:41 PM   #543
xluben
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Should've known when you said "fitment reasons" Haha. car is awesome man, keep at it!
Haha, yeah. I wanted to avoid adapters and going to a 100% VTA BOV reduces a bit of complexity as well. Unfortunately the BOV doesn't fit onto the fitting on the pipe. I think it's due to the powdercoat, so I'll probably just have to sand that off. Possibly a little more than that, I'm not sure yet.
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Old 01-10-2014, 03:26 PM   #544
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Very nice. That thing is bonkers fast.

Does the DCCD box handle pulling the handbrake properly to prevent center diff explosions?
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Old 01-10-2014, 03:43 PM   #545
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Very nice. That thing is bonkers fast.

Does the DCCD box handle pulling the handbrake properly to prevent center diff explosions?
Thanks!

Yes, it is wired into the handbrake to open the center diff when the brake is engaged.
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Old 01-10-2014, 04:06 PM   #546
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Header and gate to go.
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Old 01-10-2014, 04:12 PM   #547
xluben
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Header and gate to go.
Yeah, I wouldn't mind that. So expensive though. I have to convince myself I shouldn't just ditch the stock location setup instead. But I'm thinking I will stay stock location for this summer at least. Just not sure if I'll shell out for the header and EWG though.
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Old 01-10-2014, 05:44 PM   #548
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Yeah, I wouldn't mind that. So expensive though. I have to convince myself I shouldn't just ditch the stock location setup instead. But I'm thinking I will stay stock location for this summer at least. Just not sure if I'll shell out for the header and EWG though.
What brought you to swap to the FMIC over the GS TMIC? Also, what brand is the new setup?
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Old 01-10-2014, 05:49 PM   #549
xluben
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Honestly because I hate working on TMIC setups. Lol. FMIC is just so much easier. I really have no idea if the GrimmSpeed TMIC was close to maxing out but I imagine the FMIC will do better especially in avoiding heat soak. It is a "TurboXS" FMIC kit (hence the switch to a TurboXS BOV).
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Old 01-11-2014, 10:18 AM   #550
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I hope this means you'll fit a scoop less hood. That would be a nice sleeper look.
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