FAQ: Subaru EVAP Purge Control Solenoid Valve Information for EJ205 - Page 2

IA Performance · 07-13-2013, 12:15 PM

For the jumper hose I would take a hose off of your car and walk it in. The hose size is the same as the existing EVAP solenoid hoses, one of which attaches to the intake manifold on the vertical nipple directly behind the alternator. Some effort will be needed here.

Stephen

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USMCBuckWild · 12-26-2013, 08:40 AM

Edit: posted in wrong thread

SpOoLiNwHoRe · 01-13-2014, 11:14 AM

hi, i have a 02 wrx that i took off the intake manifold to do the infamaous fuel line leak. while i replaced the fuel lines i did the TGV deletes, as well the purge valve delete listed here. I had a check engine light for o2 sensor that i just replaced with a subaru one brand new. i cleared the code for that andh had a buddy delete the tgv codes as well. car drives fine and great at low rpm but as soon as you step into it the car spits and spudders in and out of power. could the purge be at fault? i was told to reinstall the vavle to see if it helps at all. it is almost sounds and feels like a misfire but not sure if it is... like i said car runs awesome but after 4-4500 rpm it starts to go in and out of power. any ideas?

2gnt2wrx · 01-13-2014, 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SpOoLiNwHoRe

hi, i have a 02 wrx that i took off the intake manifold to do the infamaous fuel line leak. while i replaced the fuel lines i did the TGV deletes, as well the purge valve delete listed here. I had a check engine light for o2 sensor that i just replaced with a subaru one brand new. i cleared the code for that andh had a buddy delete the tgv codes as well. car drives fine and great at low rpm but as soon as you step into it the car spits and spudders in and out of power. could the purge be at fault? i was told to reinstall the vavle to see if it helps at all. it is almost sounds and feels like a misfire but not sure if it is... like i said car runs awesome but after 4-4500 rpm it starts to go in and out of power. any ideas?

Sounds like you have good size vacuume leak/boost leak. You need to check over every hose that leads to the intake manifold and if possible do a boost leak test.

IA Performance · 01-13-2014, 11:00 PM

I 2nd the boost leak idea. Perform a "boost leak test" and the problem should be easily found. Deleting the purge valve and associated hoses should not have an ill effect on how the car operates.

Stephen

SpOoLiNwHoRe · 01-13-2014, 11:01 PM

Re-installed purge tonight.... Didn't help. Guess I'll have to do a boost leak test Tomorrow.

SpOoLiNwHoRe · 01-13-2014, 11:06 PM

Stephen..... You said you recommend zip ties on every hose off the intake manifold? Could a leak around the rubber cap plug on intake inlet cause it? Also if a tgv was leaking wouldn't it be all the time not just high rim?

IA Performance · 01-13-2014, 11:11 PM

A sizable leak at the rubber cap could change the way the car drives since it has a direct effect on the air fuel ratio. I'm pretty certain you have a leak in the intake manifold assembly, or its gaskets. The boost leak test will check all of these things.

Stephen

SpOoLiNwHoRe · 01-15-2014, 09:15 AM

Well you were right did a boost leak test last night and its leaking at 1-2 small places but the main place is at the drivers side tgv delete must be those dam orings that were so much fun to intall...... arent you supposed to use valsoline? i used a lil wd-40 guess that could have made them swell idk. passenger side is fine....
Thanks again stephen! and 2gnt2wrx!

will post back after i get the new orings today and install within the end of the week hopefully! purge delete going back on! thank god to much clutter haha

Gavin-

02nismokiller · 01-15-2014, 10:05 AM

I eliminated all that crap, cleared the codes and capped the holes and don't worry about it. I also live in FL were I don't need to worry about inspection though hahaha

kohlby777 · 02-20-2014, 07:06 AM

So on my bugeye wrx the hose coming off the nipple on the intake manifold broke cracked/broke from being hard and brittle which leads me to believe that the rest of the eval hoses are also in bad shape. My question is how difficult is it to change out the hoses with new ones? Do I have to remove the intake manifold? and also can I get generic hoses from auto zone or should I go with oem?

IA Performance · 02-20-2014, 02:05 PM

kohlby777 - the work can be performed with basic tools. The hardest part will be removing the EVAP solenoid so that you can then cut the hoses off with a razor blade. I would not try to pull them off given the brittle nature (new solenoids are over $120). Aftermarket vacuum hose from Auto Zone will be fine.

kohlby777 · 02-20-2014, 04:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IA Performance

ThePunishedGT - (1) intake manifold nipple cap 1/16" ID (1) turbo inlet nipple cap 3/16" ID (1) jumper hose 1/8-3/16" ID (roughly 7-8" long (usually sold by the foot) Stephen

So if I wanted to keep the system set up exactly how it is now a couple of feet of each size listed above would do the trick?

IA Performance · 02-20-2014, 04:45 PM

That will be more than enough. It's better to have too much, than too little.

kohlby777 · 02-21-2014, 02:42 AM

Excellent just wanted to make sure I have the correct sizes to replace everything before I go digging. I'll try to make a tutorial out of this

kohlby777 · 02-24-2014, 04:38 AM

Bump for hose sizes that are confirmed to work; having trouble finding 3/16" ID

IA Performance · 02-24-2014, 10:37 AM

Depending on local auto store supplies, you may need to look on the web. 3/16 can be purchased through Summit Racing for $4.25 (5 feet).

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-230162/overview/

ShinjiML · 03-03-2014, 04:08 PM

Hi Stephen,

So, I did the JDM mod on my 02 WRX and loved the cleaner engine bay, however, I suspect my solenoid may be going bad because I'm having trouble with the car stalling when I clutch in at times.

My question is, could a bad purge control solenoid cause the engine to run rich, there by causing the car to stall? I have also noticed some grey smoke from the exhaust and worse fuel economy. Would it be a good idea to disconnect the line to the intake manifold (the A port) to check if it fixes the problem (meaning, would this do anything bad for the car?)

The car has new plugs, new coilpacks, new MAF, no vacuum leak as confirmed by a smoke test. Oil and coolant show no leaks and cooling system has been pressure tested. Car drives normally in closed and open loop, aside from the ocassional stalling when I clutch in.

Thanks!

IA Performance · 03-04-2014, 12:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShinjiML

My question is, could a bad purge control solenoid cause the engine to run rich, there by causing the car to stall? I have also noticed some grey smoke from the exhaust and worse fuel economy. Would it be a good idea to disconnect the line to the intake manifold (the A port) to check if it fixes the problem (meaning, would this do anything bad for the car?)

A bad purge solenoid will generally not affect the way the car runs, rather it will throw a check engine light. Assuming you have had this issue prior to doing the JDM hose conversion, then I'd wager something else is wrong. Maybe the MAF is not properly seated in the intake (o-ring completely inside the intake) or the o-ring could be damaged/torn. You could try plugging the hose that goes from the solenoid to the intake manifold as a means to rule out the rough idle/fuel smell.

ShinjiML · 03-04-2014, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IA Performance

A bad purge solenoid will generally not affect the way the car runs, rather it will throw a check engine light. Assuming you have had this issue prior to doing the JDM hose conversion, then I'd wager something else is wrong. Maybe the MAF is not properly seated in the intake (o-ring completely inside the intake) or the o-ring could be damaged/torn. You could try plugging the hose that goes from the solenoid to the intake manifold as a means to rule out the rough idle/fuel smell.

Thanks for the suggestion, Stephen. I forgot to mention that the symptoms are worse after filling the tank (fuel smell and stalling), but seems to get better as I drive and use some fuel. However, I am able to fill up normally so the canister appears to be working.

Car idles fine and drives fine.

Jaydogg717 · 04-17-2014, 11:29 AM

Does anyone have any pics of the mod done? I'm having a hard time figuring out what hose goes where and if i can use the hose i already have. I got a new solenoid and tried putting it on yesterday per factory setting and i dont think i got it correct. In the process, I tore like an inch off the hose that is underneath the intake manifold. Where does that hose go? I can't see where it goes underneath.

IA Performance · 04-17-2014, 12:10 PM

Here is a photo of the completed modification off of the car. It is rather simple since one of the hoses is the original factory hose, the one marked "Manifold Nipple..." The new hose you will create is the one marked "vent return under...". This "vent return under" hose connects to the hard metal line, found under the intake manifold. In the end, there are just 2 hoses used with this setup. The spare/unused nipples on the turbo inlet, as well as intake manifold, will need to be capped off.

I do not have up close photos, so this random Google search ej207 will have to suffice of an engine bay. If someone has up close photos of this mod then feel free to share them. This is one of the easier modifications someone can do.

Jaydogg717 · 04-17-2014, 12:22 PM

So you have to buy separate hose for the vent return or can you use some of the old stuff?

IA Performance · 04-17-2014, 01:28 PM

buy new

brandon.nowicki · 04-20-2014, 11:36 PM

My car wouldn't start only after getting gas. It would stall and misfire. Turns out the damn hoses got swapped when the dealership did sime warranty/recall work on my 02 wrx. Swapped the hoses and car runs perfect again. I was getting P0457 and P0303 gas cap and #3 misfire. No longer a problem. If your car Is having trouble idling, Could be the Idle air control valve sticking.

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07-13-2013, 12:15 PM	#26
IA Performance Former Vendor Member#: 25194 Join Date: Sep 2002 Chapter/Region: RMIC Location: Boulder, CO Vehicle: 2008 Forester XT 5mt Dark Gray	For the jumper hose I would take a hose off of your car and walk it in. The hose size is the same as the existing EVAP solenoid hoses, one of which attaches to the intake manifold on the vertical nipple directly behind the alternator. Some effort will be needed here. Stephen * Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

12-26-2013, 08:40 AM	#27
USMCBuckWild Scooby Newbie Member#: 285422 Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Sneads Ferry, NC Vehicle: 2004 Forester XT JBP	Edit: posted in wrong thread

01-13-2014, 11:14 AM	#28
SpOoLiNwHoRe Scooby Newbie Member#: 108361 Join Date: Feb 2006 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Vehicle: 2004 STi black	hi, i have a 02 wrx that i took off the intake manifold to do the infamaous fuel line leak. while i replaced the fuel lines i did the TGV deletes, as well the purge valve delete listed here. I had a check engine light for o2 sensor that i just replaced with a subaru one brand new. i cleared the code for that andh had a buddy delete the tgv codes as well. car drives fine and great at low rpm but as soon as you step into it the car spits and spudders in and out of power. could the purge be at fault? i was told to reinstall the vavle to see if it helps at all. it is almost sounds and feels like a misfire but not sure if it is... like i said car runs awesome but after 4-4500 rpm it starts to go in and out of power. any ideas?

01-13-2014, 11:00 PM	#30
IA Performance Former Vendor Member#: 25194 Join Date: Sep 2002 Chapter/Region: RMIC Location: Boulder, CO Vehicle: 2008 Forester XT 5mt Dark Gray	I 2nd the boost leak idea. Perform a "boost leak test" and the problem should be easily found. Deleting the purge valve and associated hoses should not have an ill effect on how the car operates. Stephen

01-13-2014, 11:01 PM	#31
SpOoLiNwHoRe Scooby Newbie Member#: 108361 Join Date: Feb 2006 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Vehicle: 2004 STi black	Re-installed purge tonight.... Didn't help. Guess I'll have to do a boost leak test Tomorrow.

01-13-2014, 11:06 PM	#32
SpOoLiNwHoRe Scooby Newbie Member#: 108361 Join Date: Feb 2006 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Vehicle: 2004 STi black	Stephen..... You said you recommend zip ties on every hose off the intake manifold? Could a leak around the rubber cap plug on intake inlet cause it? Also if a tgv was leaking wouldn't it be all the time not just high rim?

01-13-2014, 11:11 PM	#33
IA Performance Former Vendor Member#: 25194 Join Date: Sep 2002 Chapter/Region: RMIC Location: Boulder, CO Vehicle: 2008 Forester XT 5mt Dark Gray	A sizable leak at the rubber cap could change the way the car drives since it has a direct effect on the air fuel ratio. I'm pretty certain you have a leak in the intake manifold assembly, or its gaskets. The boost leak test will check all of these things. Stephen

01-15-2014, 09:15 AM	#34
SpOoLiNwHoRe Scooby Newbie Member#: 108361 Join Date: Feb 2006 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Vehicle: 2004 STi black	Well you were right did a boost leak test last night and its leaking at 1-2 small places but the main place is at the drivers side tgv delete must be those dam orings that were so much fun to intall...... arent you supposed to use valsoline? i used a lil wd-40 guess that could have made them swell idk. passenger side is fine.... Thanks again stephen! and 2gnt2wrx! will post back after i get the new orings today and install within the end of the week hopefully! purge delete going back on! thank god to much clutter haha Gavin-

01-15-2014, 10:05 AM	#35
02nismokiller Scooby Specialist Member#: 322963 Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: upstate NY Vehicle: 04 wrx psm	I eliminated all that crap, cleared the codes and capped the holes and don't worry about it. I also live in FL were I don't need to worry about inspection though hahaha

02-20-2014, 07:06 AM	#36
kohlby777 Scooby Newbie Member#: 271073 Join Date: Jan 2011 Chapter/Region: South East Location: Carrollton, GA Vehicle: 2003 Impreza WRX Black	So on my bugeye wrx the hose coming off the nipple on the intake manifold broke cracked/broke from being hard and brittle which leads me to believe that the rest of the eval hoses are also in bad shape. My question is how difficult is it to change out the hoses with new ones? Do I have to remove the intake manifold? and also can I get generic hoses from auto zone or should I go with oem?

02-20-2014, 02:05 PM	#37
IA Performance Former Vendor Member#: 25194 Join Date: Sep 2002 Chapter/Region: RMIC Location: Boulder, CO Vehicle: 2008 Forester XT 5mt Dark Gray	kohlby777 - the work can be performed with basic tools. The hardest part will be removing the EVAP solenoid so that you can then cut the hoses off with a razor blade. I would not try to pull them off given the brittle nature (new solenoids are over $120). Aftermarket vacuum hose from Auto Zone will be fine.

02-20-2014, 04:45 PM	#39
IA Performance Former Vendor Member#: 25194 Join Date: Sep 2002 Chapter/Region: RMIC Location: Boulder, CO Vehicle: 2008 Forester XT 5mt Dark Gray	That will be more than enough. It's better to have too much, than too little.

02-21-2014, 02:42 AM	#40
kohlby777 Scooby Newbie Member#: 271073 Join Date: Jan 2011 Chapter/Region: South East Location: Carrollton, GA Vehicle: 2003 Impreza WRX Black	Excellent just wanted to make sure I have the correct sizes to replace everything before I go digging. I'll try to make a tutorial out of this

02-24-2014, 04:38 AM	#41
kohlby777 Scooby Newbie Member#: 271073 Join Date: Jan 2011 Chapter/Region: South East Location: Carrollton, GA Vehicle: 2003 Impreza WRX Black	Bump for hose sizes that are confirmed to work; having trouble finding 3/16" ID

02-24-2014, 10:37 AM	#42
IA Performance Former Vendor Member#: 25194 Join Date: Sep 2002 Chapter/Region: RMIC Location: Boulder, CO Vehicle: 2008 Forester XT 5mt Dark Gray	Depending on local auto store supplies, you may need to look on the web. 3/16 can be purchased through Summit Racing for $4.25 (5 feet). http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-230162/overview/

03-03-2014, 04:08 PM	#43
ShinjiML Scooby Specialist Member#: 257231 Join Date: Sep 2010 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: Hudson Valley, NY Vehicle: 2011 STI ShinjiTuned DGM	Hi Stephen, So, I did the JDM mod on my 02 WRX and loved the cleaner engine bay, however, I suspect my solenoid may be going bad because I'm having trouble with the car stalling when I clutch in at times. My question is, could a bad purge control solenoid cause the engine to run rich, there by causing the car to stall? I have also noticed some grey smoke from the exhaust and worse fuel economy. Would it be a good idea to disconnect the line to the intake manifold (the A port) to check if it fixes the problem (meaning, would this do anything bad for the car?) The car has new plugs, new coilpacks, new MAF, no vacuum leak as confirmed by a smoke test. Oil and coolant show no leaks and cooling system has been pressure tested. Car drives normally in closed and open loop, aside from the ocassional stalling when I clutch in. Thanks!

04-17-2014, 11:29 AM	#46
Jaydogg717 Scooby Newbie Member#: 366974 Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Erie, PA Vehicle: 2003 Wrx	Does anyone have any pics of the mod done? I'm having a hard time figuring out what hose goes where and if i can use the hose i already have. I got a new solenoid and tried putting it on yesterday per factory setting and i dont think i got it correct. In the process, I tore like an inch off the hose that is underneath the intake manifold. Where does that hose go? I can't see where it goes underneath.

04-17-2014, 12:10 PM	#47
IA Performance Former Vendor Member#: 25194 Join Date: Sep 2002 Chapter/Region: RMIC Location: Boulder, CO Vehicle: 2008 Forester XT 5mt Dark Gray	Here is a photo of the completed modification off of the car. It is rather simple since one of the hoses is the original factory hose, the one marked "Manifold Nipple..." The new hose you will create is the one marked "vent return under...". This "vent return under" hose connects to the hard metal line, found under the intake manifold. In the end, there are just 2 hoses used with this setup. The spare/unused nipples on the turbo inlet, as well as intake manifold, will need to be capped off. I do not have up close photos, so this random Google search ej207 will have to suffice of an engine bay. If someone has up close photos of this mod then feel free to share them. This is one of the easier modifications someone can do.

04-17-2014, 12:22 PM	#48
Jaydogg717 Scooby Newbie Member#: 366974 Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Erie, PA Vehicle: 2003 Wrx	So you have to buy separate hose for the vent return or can you use some of the old stuff?

04-17-2014, 01:28 PM	#49
IA Performance Former Vendor Member#: 25194 Join Date: Sep 2002 Chapter/Region: RMIC Location: Boulder, CO Vehicle: 2008 Forester XT 5mt Dark Gray	buy new

04-20-2014, 11:36 PM	#50
brandon.nowicki Scooby Newbie Member#: 235512 Join Date: Jan 2010 Chapter/Region: NWIC Location: New Orleans Vehicle: 2002 WRX WR pearl blue	My car wouldn't start only after getting gas. It would stall and misfire. Turns out the damn hoses got swapped when the dealership did sime warranty/recall work on my 02 wrx. Swapped the hoses and car runs perfect again. I was getting P0457 and P0303 gas cap and #3 misfire. No longer a problem. If your car Is having trouble idling, Could be the Idle air control valve sticking.