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Old 12-03-2014, 10:42 PM   #26
Richinin
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Thank you for this thread. I love my 14 WRX. I just went from stage 1+ to stage 1 because Im afraid of warranty work being denied. I want to go stage 2 pro tuned. But paying for a motor is pretty far out of my budget. I am always worried about something happening to it. This helped. Now I'm off to try and get sideways leaving the gas station...that **** sounds sweet!


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Old 12-03-2014, 10:43 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaddMax View Post
I don't go WOT in a 3rd-5th from below 3500-4000rpms (depending on gear).
What does going WOT below 3500 in 3rd+ do?
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Old 12-04-2014, 01:13 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMlegacy View Post
What does going WOT below 3500 in 3rd+ do?
Going WOT at low rpm's in high gears put a lot of strain on the motor. Could cause over boost and knock events. On the stock tune maybe Max has a point in 3rd gear due to the closed loop open loop delay otherwise I disagree. Data logs are taken from lower than that and dyno pulls start from lower than that.
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Old 12-04-2014, 01:34 AM   #29
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if yer t000n is ****...and MOST are....no---REALLY.....going WOT in any gear below 2k rpm is a bad idea and you really should NEVER go WOT in top gear...5th or 6th whichever you have

unless you KNOW your t000n is good and you aren't gonna blow it up doin it


and NEVER just 'stomp' the pedal....its MUCH better to ease into it

too many kiddies just do NOT know how to NOT drive so that they dont kill their cars.....so they DO...then they come here and cry bout it an we gotta get the charmin out and wipe their asses for them

gettin old
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Old 12-04-2014, 02:19 AM   #30
jt subie
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Much better to down shift to the appropriate gear. Just to clarify I was speaking in regards to "3rd" gear. Not sure why people would want to floor it in 5th or 6th anyways from low rpm's....
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Old 12-04-2014, 11:33 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt subie View Post
Much better to down shift to the appropriate gear. Just to clarify I was speaking in regards to "3rd" gear. Not sure why people would want to floor it in 5th or 6th anyways from low rpm's....
because panic mode ensues when a car is about to do a ricer flyby
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Old 12-04-2014, 04:33 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richinin View Post
Thank you for this thread. I love my 14 WRX. I just went from stage 1+ to stage 1 because Im afraid of warranty work being denied. I want to go stage 2 pro tuned. But paying for a motor is pretty far out of my budget. I am always worried about something happening to it. This helped. Now I'm off to try and get sideways leaving the gas station...that **** sounds sweet!


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Not to jump off topic into finance arguments, but if you can't afford a $2.5-3.5k vehicle repair, you shouldn't be modding a $25k+ car. Even just stage 1 should be a no-no for you.
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Old 12-04-2014, 04:37 PM   #33
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I can afford it. And I'll gladly pay it if I had to. But until my warranty is up I don't plan on paying for ****. So il keep it stage 1 and hold off on the fun stuff.


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Old 12-04-2014, 04:56 PM   #34
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Very smart thinking!
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Old 12-05-2014, 12:09 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by jt subie View Post
Data logs are taken from lower than that and dyno pulls start from lower than that.

Exactly what i was gonna ask next. dynos are usually done in 3rd and 4th gear pulls.

But i understand the idea of loading up the engine and the negative effect it would have.

My car for example, a 5EAT shifts into 4th while climbing hills at around 2500 RPM. I never liked that idea, and the meanest thing about it is that hill (half mile long) begins less than 30 seconds after i drive out each morning. So it's a mental battle of "do i downshift on the barely warm engine and make it rev higher, or continue run the high load, low RPM high gear?" hmm

Last edited by JMlegacy; 12-05-2014 at 12:40 AM.
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Old 12-05-2014, 12:18 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMlegacy View Post
Exactly what i was gonna ask next. dynos are usually done in 3rd and 4th gear pulls.

But i understand the idea of loading up the engine and the negative effect it would have.

My car for example, a 5EAT shifts into 4th while climbing hills at around 2500 RPM. I never liked that idea, and the meanest thing about it is that hill (half mile long) begins less than 30 seconds after i drive out each morning. So it's a mental battle of "do i downshift on the barely warm engine, or continue run the high load low gear?" hmm

its ALWAYS a better idea to downshift

its is FAR-FAR better to have higher rpm and lower boost in that circumstance

especially with a cold motor
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Old 12-05-2014, 08:48 PM   #37
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Never go WOT in top gear ... ? Are you talking oem everything, or that most people's aftermarket tunes are that bad?
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Old 12-05-2014, 09:15 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by k mier View Post
Never go WOT in top gear ... ? Are you talking oem everything, or that most people's aftermarket tunes are that bad?

you not around here much, are ya???

hold most of these wot at 60 in 5th and ya don't do it more than a time or 2

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Old 12-07-2014, 11:57 AM   #39
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I've owned an '02 sold @ 20k miles, '05 sold @ 185k miles, NO ISSUES with any of these cars. Then I bought a '09 & then '13. The '09 had oil control valves and rear differential break.

My '13 just got back from the dealership about a month ago after I spun a rod bearing with 27k miles. And naturally there are no more hatches to purchase (I need the storage) so I stayed with it. Engine has run great since the short block was rebuilt. However I now have a knock or creak when at a stop (light or sign) and then accelerating it sounds like it's coming from the transmission, but also maybe the rear differential. I took the car to the dealership and they can't find the problem or even hear the noise.

Anyone else know what my new noise might be so I can help the dealership locate the issue?


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Old 12-07-2014, 12:35 PM   #40
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Rsox, what was the cause of a spun bearing on your '13? Oil happen to be low? Did you have any mods?
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Old 12-08-2014, 05:48 PM   #41
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Rsox, what was the cause of a spun bearing on your '13? Oil happen to be low? Did you have any mods?

No mods, oil was low. I was changing around 7500 miles as directed by dealership. Techs recommended 5000 miles oil changes going forward. Every time I drive I'm just waiting for it to **** the bed now. That clunk noise hasn't gone away thankfully it's not in the engine. It's random which is making it impossible to isolate.


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Old 12-08-2014, 06:03 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by RSoxWRX View Post
No mods, oil was low. I was changing around 7500 miles as directed by dealership. Techs recommended 5000 miles oil changes going forward. Every time I drive I'm just waiting for it to **** the bed now. That clunk noise hasn't gone away thankfully it's not in the engine. It's random which is making it impossible to isolate.


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how often do you check your oil? tell me more than once every 5k....
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Old 12-08-2014, 06:25 PM   #43
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My 12 WRX spun #4 500 miles out of warranty. She never burned a drop of t6 and ran like a champ. SoA covered it under warranty anyway and it took almost a month to get it back. This is my third turbo Subaru and first catastrophic failure. I check my oil every other morning and had checked it the day of failure. I could not find most of my oil receipts but the tech stated the oil was clean and full and the heads were free of sludge. Now I am preparing another block to swap in just in case.
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Old 12-08-2014, 09:57 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by jason02wrx View Post
My 12 WRX spun #4 500 miles out of warranty. She never burned a drop of t6 and ran like a champ. SoA covered it under warranty anyway and it took almost a month to get it back. This is my third turbo Subaru and first catastrophic failure. I check my oil every other morning and had checked it the day of failure. I could not find most of my oil receipts but the tech stated the oil was clean and full and the heads were free of sludge. Now I am preparing another block to swap in just in case.
Mods?
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Old 12-08-2014, 10:47 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
you not around here much, are ya???

hold most of these wot at 60 in 5th and ya don't do it more than a time or 2

Been around almost as long as you, do more reading than posting.

Does anyone have some facts concerning the EcoBoost, or EcoTech motors and if they suffer the same problem, to the same degree, where they eat a motor anytime under WOT in high gear?
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Old 12-09-2014, 12:17 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k mier View Post
Been around almost as long as you, do more reading than posting.

Does anyone have some facts concerning the EcoBoost, or EcoTech motors and if they suffer the same problem, to the same degree, where they eat a motor anytime under WOT in high gear?
Google Focus ST cracked pistons/engine failure etc and your misinterpreting it a bit. Going WOT in high gears at low RPM's is horrible for your car this is proven I don't see how it would be any different for the Ecoboost.

Last edited by jt subie; 12-09-2014 at 12:25 AM.
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Old 12-09-2014, 12:21 AM   #47
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Old 12-09-2014, 07:40 AM   #48
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Mods?
None...she was stock.
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Old 12-09-2014, 08:16 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
you not around here much, are ya???

hold most of these wot at 60 in 5th and ya don't do it more than a time or 2

Quote:
Originally Posted by k mier View Post
Been around almost as long as you, do more reading than posting.

Does anyone have some facts concerning the EcoBoost, or EcoTech motors and if they suffer the same problem, to the same degree, where they eat a motor anytime under WOT in high gear?
much = often

not since joined up....

and these things been p0ppin like p0pcorn for YEARS and YEARS when they get held WOT in top gear.....nothing new......

its just got worse and worse since about 2007...

I don't think that the other motors are AS bad...NOTHING is as bad as an ej Subaru for blowin up like that
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Old 12-09-2014, 08:31 AM   #50
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one of the major problems with the high gear full throttle pulls is that they often traverse sections of the fuel/ign maps that are seldom used and/or tuned.

in fact, a little boost spike right at ve/torque peak can push you right off the map.

couple that with the thermal stress of a high load long duration pull (on both intercooling and engine cooling) and you've got razor thin margins.
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