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Old 04-09-2015, 10:37 AM   #26
bluesubie
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Default The NASIOC Oil Selection Guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by vicious_fishes View Post
great stuff. i'd love to see you go into more depth about 50 & 60 weight oils and their racing application

That's very Aussie of you.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...pics/3691230/1

See comments and Honda chart posted by some other prisoner island dude (although it's not specific to racing or 50 and 60 grades).

IMO, 15W50 is fine if you have an open class rally car. Otherwise a thinner oil with the right additive package (as gp points out) is a better choice in most racing applications.
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Old 04-09-2015, 10:57 AM   #27
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Excellent write up thank you!

Love to hear your thoughts on Amsoil Series 3000 5w30 in a 13 wrx? Mainly DD and about 6 Autox and 1 or 2 track days a year.

Your next write up should be about understanding oil FILTERS?

Last edited by ConBroMitch; 04-09-2015 at 12:03 PM.
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Old 04-09-2015, 12:49 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by ConBroMitch View Post
Excellent write up thank you!

Love to hear your thoughts on Amsoil Series 3000 5w30 in a 13 wrx? Mainly DD and about 6 Autox and 1 or 2 track days a year.

Your next write up should be about understanding oil FILTERS?

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=2583966

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=2952369
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Old 04-09-2015, 01:09 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesubie View Post
That's very Aussie of you.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...pics/3691230/1

See comments and Honda chart posted by some other prisoner island dude (although it's not specific to racing or 50 and 60 grades).

IMO, 15W50 is fine if you have an open class rally car. Otherwise a thinner oil with the right additive package (as gp points out) is a better choice in most racing applications.
i've been running the 5w-50 m1 but i understand it's basically the thinnest 50 weight out. my concern is how prone to shearing it is - seems like a 5w-40 would actually provide better long term protection due to it shearing less.
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Old 04-09-2015, 06:15 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vicious_fishes View Post
i've been running the 5w-50 m1 but i understand it's basically the thinnest 50 weight out. my concern is how prone to shearing it is - seems like a 5w-40 would actually provide better long term protection due to it shearing less.
Possibly, depends how much shear you have. I've never run M1 5w50, but I have run the Castrol 5w50. It ended up thinner than RT6.

Just remember the 50% rule for shear - HT/HS is reduced by 50% of what KV100 is reduced by.

Really, RT6 is as robust as you should ever need in an EJ Subaru, if your oil temps are so high that you "need" 50 grade, get a bigger oil cooler.
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Old 04-09-2015, 11:40 PM   #31
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Any comments regarding Schaeffer Manufacturing Company's Supreme 9000 5w-40?
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Old 04-12-2015, 07:25 PM   #32
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This thread is superb. Thank you gpshumway for such a thorough and near dissertation level journal on oil selection and the "why?" behind such selection.

If you are ever in the Deep South, I owe you some cold beers.
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Old 04-12-2015, 07:27 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big-E View Post
Any comments regarding Schaeffer Manufacturing Company's Supreme 9000 5w-40?

it appears to be a good syn HDEO oil


rock it out let us know what you think
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Old 04-18-2015, 01:06 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
it appears to be a good syn HDEO oil

rock it out let us know what you think
I had good luck with it previously. My problem is no one stocks this oil, so I went through a factory representative and purchased five six-gallon cases. No shipping costs, but CT sales tax, and the price-point was a few pennies higher per gallon versus RT-6. I have it and don't have to travel (cost) to buy from the store, a/k/a Wally World to buy at the best possible price.

I will follow-up with a BSL sample test.
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Old 04-18-2015, 03:46 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big-E View Post
I had good luck with it previously. My problem is no one stocks this oil, so I went through a factory representative and purchased five six-gallon cases. No shipping costs, but CT sales tax, and the price-point was a few pennies higher per gallon versus RT-6. I have it and don't have to travel (cost) to buy from the store, a/k/a Wally World to buy at the best possible price.

I will follow-up with a BSL sample test.
yeah...that is the thing about the T6...it isn't the BEST........

it IS the best commonly available, lowest cost oil.... it IS damn good, and 7k mile OCI isn't any issue with it unless using e85
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Old 04-20-2015, 11:58 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
yeah...that is the thing about the T6...it isn't the BEST........

it IS the best commonly available, lowest cost oil.... it IS damn good, and 7k mile OCI isn't any issue with it unless using e85
Ding, ding, ding.

Exactly. One could easily argue that several oils are "better" than RT6. Red Line 5w30 for instance is "better" than RT6, but if you're operating your engine in a way that Red Line's advantages over RT6 are relevant to you, it's operating outside the optimal range.

The problem, especially in the turbo EJ, is there's very little value priced HD 30 grade oil. GC is a long time favorite, and works well for most users, but it's only available at a couple stores in expensive quarts. The latest Low-SAPS HD 30 grade oils perform really well at short(ish) intervals, but cost close to double what RT6 does. So even though RT6 is a bit thicker than optimal for most users, the penalties are slim and the value proposition is excellent. Same goes for all oils in RT6's category; M1 TDT, Chevron Delo, and the Schaeffer's 9000 Big-E mentions as long as it's convenient and cheap to acquire.

As to the Schaeffer's 9000, it looks to have excellent specs including API SM and ACEA E7 and E9 both. The HTHS is maybe a bit overkill for most Subarus at 4.05, but it's not going to hurt anything but your fuel economy (a teeny weeny bit). The TBN is slightly low compared to others in the category, but it may have newer chemistry which allows long drain intervals none-the-less. Post the results!

The list of oils in the guide is already approaching unmanageable, so I decided to stick to oils commonly available or interesting for other reasons.
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Old 04-21-2015, 11:01 AM   #37
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Can i ask something why did u say that the ej turbo engine was the most problematic are you saying the engines are bad? Or are u saying that engine is inevitable to spin bearings? Im just a little confused if i was to use rt6 from now on on my vehicle would it help with that issue but still happen eventually to the bearings could you just maybe elaborate a little bit more as to what you meant by that please
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Old 04-21-2015, 07:42 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yamahadudeb24 View Post
Can i ask something why did u say that the ej turbo engine was the most problematic are you saying the engines are bad? Or are u saying that engine is inevitable to spin bearings? Im just a little confused if i was to use rt6 from now on on my vehicle would it help with that issue but still happen eventually to the bearings could you just maybe elaborate a little bit more as to what you meant by that please


IM...just...incredulous, here
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Old 04-22-2015, 01:09 AM   #39
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Let's be real though, if you have to ask why someone says EJ engines have problems...
They haven't read any other thread on here.
Google is your friend.
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Old 04-22-2015, 05:38 PM   #40
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So are you telling me that using 5W-30 isn't good for the EJ turbo engines??????

Anybody else use have issues using 5W-30 on the EJ engines? I've been using Mobil 1 5W-30 full synthetic since 42,000 miles. Just switched over to Castrol Edge on the current oil change. About to hit 60k. Should I stick to 5W-30 or no? I don't track the car or anything. Just normal street driving.
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Old 04-22-2015, 05:41 PM   #41
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Noo jettylife ive seen and hear of all ej problems ok im saying is he saying they are just poor engines in general cause theres a huge debate on that topic and the 2006 forester xt got engine of the year award in 2006
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Old 04-22-2015, 06:25 PM   #42
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Phenomenal write up. *Standing ovation*
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Old 04-23-2015, 07:42 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 084eatWRX View Post
So are you telling me that using 5W-30 isn't good for the EJ turbo engines??????



Anybody else use have issues using 5W-30 on the EJ engines? I've been using Mobil 1 5W-30 full synthetic since 42,000 miles. Just switched over to Castrol Edge on the current oil change. About to hit 60k. Should I stick to 5W-30 or no? I don't track the car or anything. Just normal street driving.

Forget brand, it does not matter. The point of this information is help you choose the proper viscosity for your application. And not just the number on the bottle, but the kinematic viscosity at 100C and the High Temp High Shear viscosity.

Resource Conserving GF5 5W30 oils are designed to shear for better fuel economy. Your Mobil1 5W30 and your Castrol Edge (unless you're in Oz or Europe running ACEA A3 Edge) will most likely shear to a 20 grade oil in less than 3k miles.
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Old 04-23-2015, 08:50 AM   #44
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Where would Rotella T5 15w40 fall into the mix? Off Shell`s site it meets the API SM rating.
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Old 04-23-2015, 12:20 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdieder View Post
Where would Rotella T5 15w40 fall into the mix? Off Shell`s site it meets the API SM rating.
I'm going to pick on you a little bit here. Take heart, you're not the only one asking for spoon feeding, you're just the one who asked at the wrong time.

Why don't you look up the specs for RT5 15w40 and read the selection guide and posit a category and usage scenario for it? All the info is in the first 12 posts of this thread along with the Rotella website.

Some things to think about:
What does the SAE grade say about the cold-start characteristics?
What is the cost?
Do answers to the above two questions indicate why it might not be on my short list of good oils to use in a Subaru?
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Old 04-23-2015, 04:57 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gpshumway View Post

I'm going to pick on you a little bit here. Take heart, you're not the only one asking for spoon feeding, you're just the one who asked at the wrong time.

Why don't you look up the specs for RT5 15w40 and read the selection guide and posit a category and usage scenario for it? All the info is in the first 12 posts of this thread along with the Rotella website.

Some things to think about:
What does the SAE grade say about the cold-start characteristics?
What is the cost?
Do answers to the above two questions indicate why it might not be on my short list of good oils to use in a Subaru?
No offense taken. I've read this thread several times but it is overwhelming with some of the details to consider. It's like where do I start at a buffet where everything looks good.
This is my take:

T5 falls in the heavy duty category
It's cheap.
API SM
ACEA E9
HT/HS 5.6

Bugeye wrx Vf 22 turbo with basic supporting mods.
Daily driver use occasional spirited driving
Should meet my cold weather cold start requirements in SoCal

It's seems to look good but I am not confident I am interpreting the specs correctly to meet requirements of protection.
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Old 04-23-2015, 05:02 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdieder View Post
No offense taken. I've read this thread several times but it is overwhelming with some of the details to consider. It's like where do I start at a buffet where everything looks good.
This is my take:

T5 falls in the heavy duty category
It's cheap.
API SM
ACEA E9
HT/HS 5.6

Bugeye wrx Vf 22 turbo with basic supporting mods.
Daily driver use occasional spirited driving
Should meet my cold weather cold start requirements in SoCal

It's seems to look good but I am not confident I am interpreting the specs correctly to meet requirements of protection.
Have you considered the T-6 5w40 or the M1 0w40 or even the M1 TDT 5w40?
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Old 04-23-2015, 05:32 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by subi400 View Post

Have you considered the T-6 5w40 or the M1 0w40 or even the M1 TDT 5w40?
This is a beater that I got fixed up. I use the good stuff T6 on my Sti but I am ok with a cheaper oil for this one if it meets minimum protection. Price point is more a factor because of some blow by.
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Old 04-23-2015, 05:57 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdieder View Post
No offense taken. I've read this thread several times but it is overwhelming with some of the details to consider. It's like where do I start at a buffet where everything looks good.
This is my take:

T5 falls in the heavy duty category
It's cheap.
API SM
ACEA E9
HT/HS 5.6

Bugeye wrx Vf 22 turbo with basic supporting mods.
Daily driver use occasional spirited driving
Should meet my cold weather cold start requirements in SoCal

It's seems to look good but I am not confident I am interpreting the specs correctly to meet requirements of protection.
You are correct that it's a heavy duty oil conforming to API SM, but where did you get ACEA E9 and HT/HS of 5.6? The current PDS mentions neither. Are you sure you're not talking about RT5 10w30?. HTHS of 5.6 would be a neat trick for a 40 grade oil, that's higher than Red Line 10w50! I'd be surprised if it's higher than 4.1.

RT5 15w40 will indeed serve your cold start needs fine in SoCal, but RT6 5w40 is only ~$1.25/qt more expensive and drastically better for cold starts, which is why it's mentioned specifically in the guide and 15w40 RT5 is not. Most of North America is colder than SoCal

RT5 10w30 will also serve you well, but it's HT/HS is nowhere near 5.6, more like 3.6.
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Old 04-23-2015, 08:15 PM   #50
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If most of the country is running RT6... Why even worry about running RT5 15w40? It isn't that much more expensive, and it's proven in these cars.
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