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Old 09-01-2016, 01:12 PM   #226
Emaculant
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Would this info be the same for a 2012 WRX 5 door? http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2624440

And will there be any other info needed or things I might need to look out for? This is my first time doing breaks and rotors. I'm using Centric rotors and stoptech pads. Thanks.
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Old 09-01-2016, 01:15 PM   #227
KNS Brakes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emaculant View Post
Would this info be the same for a 2012 WRX 5 door? http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2624440

And will there be any other info needed or things I might need to look out for? This is my first time doing breaks and rotors. Thanks.
Your brakes are the same as the 2010 so it should be correct.

Ken
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Old 12-02-2016, 03:05 PM   #228
maat922
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The only job I've done on this car so far that was easy was a brake job.
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Old 03-17-2017, 08:30 AM   #229
meaganlf5
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Angry BRAND new 2017 forester stops abruptly on freeway

Hey Guys,

I have never posted here before and technically speaking as of right now I do not own a subaru. I'm hoping for some insight or some guidance.
I bought a BRAND NEW 2017 subaru forester from downtown subaru yesterday. I drove it exactly 34 km's before I began to have issues.
While merging off the HWY 401 east onto HWY 404 newmarket, I began to accelerate. I got the car up to ~80-90km/hr( I had already previously driven at this speed and had no issues).

The car decided to slam itself on the brakes. I lost all manual control of the car, my steering wheel had no play to it. It felt like all 4 tires locked up. I skid down the freeway for ~30 feet until the car finally came to a complete stop. I was almost rear ended due to this incident and subsequently almost cause a multiple car pileup on the highway.

Once the car stopped, I attempted to drive it over to the shoulder. The car WOULD NOT MOVE. The car would turn on and off with no issues. The car would go into "drive mode" and the engine would rev, however the car would not move. NOTHING, nothing what so ever. I attempted to turn the car off and back on, and the car still would not move. I turned off all eye sight options, hoping this would help. NOTHING


So here I am with a brand new car, stuck on a mega highway and I didn't know what to do. I finally towed the car back to the dealership and the service department took a look at it. As far as they could see, all my sensors were perfectly fine, which led them to believe it was a mechanical issue. Maybe the transmission.

The car was left outside the garage by the tow truck and even the mechanics couldn't figure out how they were going to get the car into the garage. It would not move.


Now, the dealer has offered to get me the exact same car, it's currently on the train from vancouver. My dilemma is. DO I EVEN WANT A SUBARU????? should i contact subaru canada. They preach at how " safe" the vehicle is, however, I do not have the same experience.

I'm really just looking to see what everyone thinks of their subaru's and what my possible next steps should be. Ultimately, this situation is completely unacceptable and I'm slightly traumatized form the entire event.

Thanks guys.
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Old 03-21-2017, 10:27 AM   #230
blue0skye
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meaganlf5 View Post
Hey Guys,

I have never posted here before and technically speaking as of right now I do not own a subaru. I'm hoping for some insight or some guidance.
I bought a BRAND NEW 2017 subaru forester from downtown subaru yesterday. I drove it exactly 34 km's before I began to have issues.
While merging off the HWY 401 east onto HWY 404 newmarket, I began to accelerate. I got the car up to ~80-90km/hr( I had already previously driven at this speed and had no issues).

The car decided to slam itself on the brakes. I lost all manual control of the car, my steering wheel had no play to it. It felt like all 4 tires locked up. I skid down the freeway for ~30 feet until the car finally came to a complete stop. I was almost rear ended due to this incident and subsequently almost cause a multiple car pileup on the highway.

Once the car stopped, I attempted to drive it over to the shoulder. The car WOULD NOT MOVE. The car would turn on and off with no issues. The car would go into "drive mode" and the engine would rev, however the car would not move. NOTHING, nothing what so ever. I attempted to turn the car off and back on, and the car still would not move. I turned off all eye sight options, hoping this would help. NOTHING


So here I am with a brand new car, stuck on a mega highway and I didn't know what to do. I finally towed the car back to the dealership and the service department took a look at it. As far as they could see, all my sensors were perfectly fine, which led them to believe it was a mechanical issue. Maybe the transmission.

The car was left outside the garage by the tow truck and even the mechanics couldn't figure out how they were going to get the car into the garage. It would not move.


Now, the dealer has offered to get me the exact same car, it's currently on the train from vancouver. My dilemma is. DO I EVEN WANT A SUBARU????? should i contact subaru canada. They preach at how " safe" the vehicle is, however, I do not have the same experience.

I'm really just looking to see what everyone thinks of their subaru's and what my possible next steps should be. Ultimately, this situation is completely unacceptable and I'm slightly traumatized form the entire event.

Thanks guys.
Thats pretty messed up... suprised I didn't hear about that on the news as I travel the 404 daily with 680 playing all the time.

I think its worth a shot with another one... I know it'd be hard to get trust back but all these cars now adays are all electronic... can happen with all these brake assist and collision avoidance tech...

all these new technology is great when it works and not breaking down. Still miss my old corolla that has manual door/windows and an actual throttle cable...
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Old 04-02-2017, 10:01 AM   #231
Cfour
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Sorry if this has been posted before, but I couldn't find any info on my current situation...
I recently changed my pads and rotors in my '13 wrx, followed the step by step process used here - http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2624440, and everything seems fine except that my brake pedal is a lot harder/touchier (if that's a word). It seems like the brakes are working TOO good and the pedal has very little play when pressed. I tried bleeding the lines just in case, and backing off the caliper pins just a tad and it didn't seem to soften up any. I understand the newer/thicker pads will take up more space in the caliper, but this seems like a MAJOR difference than before. I'm drawing a blank on what to do or what it could be...
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Old 04-02-2017, 11:50 AM   #232
mschiavoni
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you probably just got used to the old brakes. i had the brakes and rotors replaced on my 97 LGT and the first few times i hit the brakes i nearly went through the windshield
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Old 04-04-2017, 05:06 PM   #233
Jakelift93
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Default 2017 wrx brake noise

brakes have been making some noise only when applying light pressure they squeal from about 20mph to a complete stop and only when applying light brake pressure.. worried me took it to the dealer and they said they didn't find anything

Not sure what could be causing it or they were just being lazy and didn't really inspect that well seems like it's coming from the front brakes for sure
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Old 06-12-2017, 08:19 PM   #234
SubieNation13
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Hello I have a 2011 legacy with stoptech pads. I recently saw that my brake light is coming on when I step on the brakes with medium to hard force. It's the red brake lights that comes on for the e-brake when it's on. Thank you
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Old 06-12-2017, 08:27 PM   #235
gsrcrxsi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubieNation13 View Post
Hello I have a 2011 legacy with stoptech pads. I recently saw that my brake light is coming on when I step on the brakes with medium to hard force. It's the red brake lights that comes on for the e-brake when it's on. Thank you


Your brake fluid is low. Add some.
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Old 06-12-2017, 08:30 PM   #236
SubieNation13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsrcrxsi View Post
Your brake fluid is low. Add some.


Ok thanks a lot.
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Old 06-15-2017, 01:35 AM   #237
gs300cky
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Any recommendations on why my 09 wrx is horrible at stopping? I have almost brand new pads, I just had the rotors resurfaced and yet it feels like a damn tank when I slow down.
I get better braking from my Saturn and Altima sadly. Or do I just need to upgrade the brake system all around, I.e ss lines, calipers etc etc
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Old 06-15-2017, 01:37 AM   #238
ReDXE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gs300cky View Post
Any recommendations on why my 09 wrx is horrible at stopping? I have almost brand new pads, I just had the rotors resurfaced and yet it feels like a damn tank when I slow down.
I get better braking from my Saturn and Altima sadly
Whats the conditions of your tires like?
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Old 06-15-2017, 01:37 AM   #239
gs300cky
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Almost brand new
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Old 10-28-2017, 11:27 AM   #240
exist
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gs300cky View Post
Any recommendations on why my 09 wrx is horrible at stopping? I have almost brand new pads, I just had the rotors resurfaced and yet it feels like a damn tank when I slow down.
I get better braking from my Saturn and Altima sadly. Or do I just need to upgrade the brake system all around, I.e ss lines, calipers etc etc
Titanium brake pad shims + aggressive compound. To take all from the new pad you have to make bedding procedure correctly . Only smooth "burnishing" layer would help you to take all from your brake pad set.
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Old 10-28-2017, 11:39 AM   #241
Charlie-III
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Silver Sleeper BK, 5MT

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Quote:
Originally Posted by gs300cky View Post
Any recommendations on why my 09 wrx is horrible at stopping? I have almost brand new pads, I just had the rotors resurfaced and yet it feels like a damn tank when I slow down.
I get better braking from my Saturn and Altima sadly. Or do I just need to upgrade the brake system all around, I.e ss lines, calipers etc etc
Not sure all the brake work done.
There is a bedding process for new pads.
Maybe they opened a line (no clue why) and you have air in it.
Could be seized caliper pins or pistons, usually this make it pull to one side (the side that is working).

Quote:
Originally Posted by exist View Post
Titanium brake pad shims + aggressive compound. To take all from the new pad you have to make bedding procedure correctly . Only smooth "burnishing" layer would help you to take all from your brake pad set.
Bedding is good.
The rest is more for max braking like track days, shouldn't be needed for a DD.
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Old 10-28-2017, 11:42 AM   #242
gs300cky
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Ya Iím looking at just going with the Cadillac Brake upgrade, Iím just looking to find everything thatís needed exactly since Iím seeing two different things for it
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Old 06-07-2019, 08:21 AM   #243
22bornottobe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxsti.l View Post

BUT, and it is a big but, the biggest problem is that they tend to crack from irregular expansion from all this hard/extreme braking - so if you use them on the track, you'll need to have the budget to replace them when cracks appear.

Leslie.
Agreed big time, have already gone through this tracking my blob eye at Millville. Drilled rotors warped and cracked on us under hard use.
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Old 06-20-2019, 04:26 PM   #244
crap GC 99
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Default Finally changed calipers and master .. now no brakes

I have a 1999 Impreza L.. which had original calipers and master on it with 230k miles. Brakes had been real weak for a long time but I just drove around it. Finally got a little change in my pocket, and decided to replace the FR caliper that had a minor leak and a rough looking piston.

well, the brakes improved dramatically! But, I could tell the master was weak because they would fade/fall with the master cyl test (car off, pump and hold, etc). happy about the improvement with one caliper replaced (Autozone caliper) .. I decided to do the master cyl and other caliper also. Since then, very very soft and low pedal. probably 20% normal braking power. I tried my best to bleed and rebleed. and finally took it in to a pro mechanic. The rear drum pistons and pads were replaced by a pro hoping for improvement, but.. he couldn't get the brakes to perform any better (at all). He was stumped and just gave up after a few days of bleeding and getting nowhere. Zero leaks anywhere.

I did notice the banjo bolts on the Autozone calipers have smaller heads. IDK if the bore is smaller or not.. but smaller seems like it would yield more pressure not less. (but might make bleeding harder)

and.. no. I didnt' bench bleed the master. I thought I could do that on the car (I don't hve a bench/vice).. but there's no way to move the lines off the master to bleed in the car. they can be loosened, but not backed off etc.
also, I had to take the FL (driver's front) line off and attach it to the MC before installing the MC because it just would not catch the threads in the car. i topped off the MC in the car and gravity bled it to start. i put a board behind the pedal when i used the buddy method.

I keep looking at the master which is tilted up a few degrees.. and thinking air is trapped in the front of the master. it's a 4 port master btw. Two on side and two on bottom. the Front top has an 'S' mark above it. does that stand for 'Service' as in .. bleed here? I've considered parking the car on a decline to move the alleged bubble to the rear.

any ideas? my bleeding tricks and the mechanics have so far failed to fix my dry MC install fubarsky.


Looking forward to any assist. Thanks in advance.

Last edited by crap GC 99; 06-20-2019 at 04:37 PM. Reason: Front left line .. rather than front right .. etc
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Old 06-20-2019, 04:31 PM   #245
crap GC 99
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Default Finally changed calipers and master .. now no brakes

I may have posted to the wrong forum .. if so, sorry.
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Old 07-02-2019, 11:42 AM   #246
crap GC 99
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Solution was to remove the MC and bench bleed it. Brakes are back.
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Old 07-11-2019, 01:03 PM   #247
blizzak_tibo
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Hi!
Did anybody install Lexus ls430(Toyota celsior) brakes on Subaru?
I try to find the blueprints of adapter for calipers...
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Old 08-02-2019, 10:34 PM   #248
EpicureanApostate
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Default nub lost in options

Hail and well met.
Been driving an 02 Legacy L Wagon for awhile now and it's time to replace the brake pads (and probably rotors, haven't taken the caliper/micrometer to them yet). Read this whole thread and have arrived at a few conclusions but still running a couple questions. This is my daily drive vehicle usually putting on 40-60 miles a day, mix of surface and highway driving, with the occasional cross-state or cross-continent ride. Complication is I live in the midwest, home of ice and salt, so when I read about cold bite performance, I'm still not sold on if I'm looking at organic or ceramic pads (or something else entirely, but I've never driven on anything but OEM parts). So after reading the thread, plenty of people doing just fine with Centric rotors and pads, or Centric StopTech/Hawk combos. I'm just suffering choice paralysis because of all the Duralast, SureStop, PowerStop, EBC, etc that are out there on AutoZone, Amazon, AutoParts Warehouse, PartsGeek, and TireRack.

So maybe I should branch this into two questions.
Does the cold bite performance of pads like the Centric Posi Quiets hold up in cold weather, or should I look for another option?
Are off-brand combo deals like: https://www.autopartswarehouse.com/s...49OEREP27.html actually deals or am I just asking for more work in a couple hundred miles?

Thanks all for reading this block of text.
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Old 08-03-2019, 12:07 AM   #249
subaru_gc8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EpicureanApostate View Post
Hail and well met.
Been driving an 02 Legacy L Wagon for awhile now and it's time to replace the brake pads (and probably rotors, haven't taken the caliper/micrometer to them yet). Read this whole thread and have arrived at a few conclusions but still running a couple questions. This is my daily drive vehicle usually putting on 40-60 miles a day, mix of surface and highway driving, with the occasional cross-state or cross-continent ride. Complication is I live in the midwest, home of ice and salt, so when I read about cold bite performance, I'm still not sold on if I'm looking at organic or ceramic pads (or something else entirely, but I've never driven on anything but OEM parts). So after reading the thread, plenty of people doing just fine with Centric rotors and pads, or Centric StopTech/Hawk combos. I'm just suffering choice paralysis because of all the Duralast, SureStop, PowerStop, EBC, etc that are out there on AutoZone, Amazon, AutoParts Warehouse, PartsGeek, and TireRack.

So maybe I should branch this into two questions.
Does the cold bite performance of pads like the Centric Posi Quiets hold up in cold weather, or should I look for another option?
Are off-brand combo deals like: https://www.autopartswarehouse.com/s...49OEREP27.html actually deals or am I just asking for more work in a couple hundred miles?

Thanks all for reading this block of text.
if youre not racing, canyon running, or autocrossing why not just keep with the stock oem brakes?
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Old 08-03-2019, 01:13 AM   #250
EpicureanApostate
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Pads have worn through or are on their last mm, rotors are either close behind or are in need of turning to get out from under some bad deposition (which is not something I'm equipped to do).

Taking a stab at doing the work and parts sourcing myself to try to save a bit of green.
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