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Old 03-12-2018, 11:59 PM   #2651
Scargod
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Looking good. Are you going to take a wedge of plenum aluminum out so the throttle body angle is lower?
Take that **** out in between the holes for the injectors.
Wear a dust mask and tight fitting goggles! Don't ask why I say that...
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Old 03-13-2018, 12:22 AM   #2652
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scargod View Post
Looking good. Are you going to take a wedge of plenum aluminum out so the throttle body angle is lower?
Take that **** out in between the holes for the injectors.
Wear a dust mask and tight fitting goggles! Don't ask why I say that...


Thx. Haven’t decided if I’ll get the proper TB angle by angling the face and welding in a wedge or sectioning just around the TB flange and pulling it outwards just yet.

Ya I’ve already had a massive chunk of aluminum in the eye. The aluminum carbide lol throw some some serious debris. Bought some tighter fitting glasses today actually.

After its all welded and smoothed I’ll be powder coat priming, sanding, maybe another coat and then laying down some serious glass-like powder. Should look awesome in the bay.
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Old 03-13-2018, 06:59 AM   #2653
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Love it

More pics as progress goes
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Old 03-13-2018, 08:49 AM   #2654
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Use a bar of cheap soap on your bits. Keeps aluminum from sticking and gumming up. Keep bar handy and touch grinder against it every so often
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Old 03-13-2018, 11:23 AM   #2655
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I use wood floor paste wax. WD 40 also works. I do major finishing with flap wheels like this one. It's also great for porting and port matching finishing work.
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Old 03-13-2018, 12:06 PM   #2656
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i dont have the patience for those
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Old 03-13-2018, 04:17 PM   #2657
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^
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Old 03-13-2018, 04:29 PM   #2658
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picked up these today, i have some bigger ones at home already. need to cleanup some chassis welds before paint.

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Old 03-13-2018, 06:27 PM   #2659
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picked up these today, i have some bigger ones at home already. need to cleanup some chassis welds before paint.



Nice. I absolutely despise when I have to use my steel carbide burrs. The sharp little bits they produce always seems to stab me everywhere!
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Old 03-13-2018, 10:40 PM   #2660
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Nice. I absolutely despise when I have to use my steel carbide burrs. The sharp little bits they produce always seems to stab me everywhere!
Use them daily, a little wax and it will never happen again. Wax is cheap!!!
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Old 03-13-2018, 10:52 PM   #2661
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Use them daily, a little wax and it will never happen again. Wax is cheap!!!


Wax prevents the sharp shards? How exactly? I’ll have to try it. I usually try not to use spray lubricant or things of that nature when I know I’ll be tigging it.
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Old 03-13-2018, 11:12 PM   #2662
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Aluminum just sucks balls to cut and grind. The sanding type bits do a great job and are easier to be even with, but wear super quickly. The carbide bits get into the spots you need, but clog easily. I still have to confirm which tabs can be removed, with the few that are left. The manifold finish is about 90 percent otherwise, I had it blasted to get an idea of how well it would go. Most likely going to paint, polishing looks awesome, but will dull and I don't like little nooks and crannies with dull areas you can't reach easily on the car. Probably just going to use a "quality" can paint, the risk of powdercoating and having a deadly crack that rears it's head down the road and causes an engine failure worries me.
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Old 03-13-2018, 11:22 PM   #2663
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Aluminum just sucks balls to cut and grind. The sanding type bits do a great job and are easier to be even with, but wear super quickly. The carbide bits get into the spots you need, but clog easily. I still have to confirm which tabs can be removed, with the few that are left. The manifold finish is about 90 percent otherwise, I had it blasted to get an idea of how well it would go. Most likely going to paint, polishing looks awesome, but will dull and I don't like little nooks and crannies with dull areas you can't reach easily on the car. Probably just going to use a "quality" can paint, the risk of powdercoating and having a deadly crack that rears it's head down the road and causes an engine failure worries me.


If you get a good aluminum carbide bit the clogging shouldn’t be an issue.

Also, what are you referring to my “deadly crack” with the powder coating? I own a shop (Ion Coating) that specializes in high quality powder finishes so maybe I can answer some questions for you.
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Old 03-13-2018, 11:45 PM   #2664
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I've seen a few posts of aluminum intake manifolds cracking over the years, some were powdercoated. I totally understand what can cause it and am not considering doing it. I have set of oem wrx wheels on my car that were powdercoated, and another jdm set of wrx wheels waiting to go on my other subaru that I got coated, but that was the only option I had to get the color I wanted and the company deals only with wheel restoration so hopefully their qc isn't lacking. They were powdercoated to smooth the blast job the other \/ powder shop did to strip, so they would be smooth enough for an automotive paint finish.

There are many variations of aluminum alloys used and being that close to doing it "incorrectly" is enough to justify avoiding the risk in my opinion. Some people won't care and see their cars as expendable anyway, some never push them long enough to see an issue, etc. It's been discussed ad nauseam online for years, especially in the wheel department. Obviously the intake manifold endures a different variation of the stresses endured by wheels, but it still gets pulled back and forth as the engine expands and contracts with heat cycling.

I'm not saying powdercoating isn't a great option for decorative purposes, but for stressed parts it's critical to get it perfect. The wheels on my car are also chipping and shedding the clear that was over the powder...along with the powder in several random places. They were done by a local place that does a lot of industrial work but custom for people restoring vehicles as well. Maybe the wheels weren't overheated but I sure avoid any hole or bump like the plague.
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Old 03-13-2018, 11:56 PM   #2665
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Default Reversed Intake Manifold/TB Thread

I can see why you may be hesitant for sure. To each their own and there is nothing wrong with that whatsoever!

Before we get too far off topic I just wanted to add that the clear shouldn’t separate from the base-coat unless they did an improper partial cure on the base coat (accidentally fully cured it). Both powders should properly cross link and essentially become one. We have industrial facilities around us as well that we see producing the same issues all the time.

Back to manifolds!
-my rails and adapters should arrive tomorrow so that I can make some more progress!
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Old 03-14-2018, 12:41 AM   #2666
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I can see why you may be hesitant for sure. To each their own and there is nothing wrong with that whatsoever!

Before we get too far off topic I just wanted to add that the clear shouldn’t separate from the base-coat unless they did an improper partial cure on the base coat (accidentally fully cured it). Both powders should properly cross link and essentially become one. We have industrial facilities around us as well that we see producing the same issues all the time.

Back to manifolds!
-my rails and adapters should arrive tomorrow so that I can make some more progress!
Thanks for the response, makes sense, I thought the entire coating would be one but apparently something was missed. This time around it was done at a place that only does wheels. The only thing I didn't like was how the area under the tires seems to have inconsistency in the color and texture. I was told that area is powdercoated, but the paint primer and top coats weren't perfect because they don't focus on that area. I asked if there was something I could spray inside and they said it could stay as is or I could spray something if I desired. :shrug:

They are north of Houston, off 45n. Can't remember the name, but their website is decent.
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Old 03-14-2018, 06:31 AM   #2667
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OK, l may need my Nomex.
I am guilty at times myself, but I'd like to get back to discussing the subject of the manifolds and their installations.
I've been on here almost eight years. I feel discussions have deteriorated in quality and substance. This is a subject under "Technical".

I'd like to see topics and posts on NASIOC be a cut above Facebook Groups.
Am I wrong?
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Old 03-14-2018, 08:33 AM   #2668
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Definitely not wrong!
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Old 03-14-2018, 09:16 PM   #2669
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I'm not seeing the issue at all, maybe this thread just needs more pics. Would that help? I'm not running reversed, but am using a 2.5i manifold. The information for forward or reverse facing should be shared to benefit both setups.
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Old 03-15-2018, 06:45 AM   #2670
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Realistically, that would really fall under a thread for 2.5i manifolds. The title hear is reversed manifold, not N/A, not 2.5i, not regular facing, not just aftermarket, etc. It's about reverse manifolds. Can be any company, year, turbo or not, this topic is about reversed manifolds.

That doesn't mean you cannot chime in, look for information etc, but if you want to just talk about changing to a 2.5i manifold, long, 2 piece, whatever, that is a different thread.

There is a difference.
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Old 03-15-2018, 07:13 AM   #2671
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Enough of the whining and back on topic, how about that. Pretty sure we weren't even discussing normal facing manifolds, we were talking about preparation of the manifold. Not sure why people want to start griping all of a sudden, so how about back on topic already?
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Old 03-15-2018, 08:15 AM   #2672
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I would leave these on the back. Hardly visible and several have come in handy.
Bottom one, or one at head by mounting bolt, not so much. You can see that I had my tank on the front but I abandoned that location.
Most in the front were not used. Just remember that they can come in handy as a place to capture wiring, vacuum and fuel lines.

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Old 03-15-2018, 08:39 AM   #2673
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Agree with leaving a couple tabs. Been times I wish I did to mount things too like fpr, bcs, harness, etc..
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Old 04-12-2018, 08:32 PM   #2674
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Finally done. Ready for install.




IG: @lelandsti
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Old 04-13-2018, 11:21 AM   #2675
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Wow. Where to start? Looks great!
Why did you cut off the mounts and re-weld? I had to slot the inboard mounting holes to get them to line up with the heads. You don't seem to have done that.
What is the bracket in the back for?
How will you mount your fuel rails?
With the cold air tubing mounted solidly to the throttle body where do you allow for flex? Even with very stiff motor mounts won't the engine move some?
I've done one (and just minimal welding for a bung underneath the plenum) and have two more sitting here to start on.
I'm wondering what filler rod you used or found that works best? Any thoughts on what alloy the mani might be? What alloy did you use for filling in the large gaps for re-angling the throttle body mounting face?
You've given me some ideas for the next one.

Last edited by Scargod; 04-13-2018 at 01:32 PM. Reason: More questions...
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