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Old 08-04-2018, 06:46 AM   #1
Virco
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Default Need help with building a new engine

Hey guys,

I haven't been on this site in forever and need some help with my current situation. I have an 08 Sti and my engine finally went out. I'm pretty clueless when it comes to knowing every single part I need to buy for a new engine. I'm still waiting to take my car to a local shop that mostly works on Subarus. So they can take apart the engine and send off the Heads for testing and to see if they can be used still.

My questions are. I need to buy a new block and I'm not if anyone here recommends a good site or place to go to. The shop said IAG is a good place. I like to do as much research as I can before making big purchases, but I'd also like my car back within a few months at most. So I'm coming here for any advice on parts. So Explain like I'm 5. List every part out so I can order it. You can even include Heads and Cams if worst case scenario I have to replace them.

I'm expecting to spend anywhere between 8k-15k at most with labor to get my car running again. Could anyone list out in detail a list of parts I should buy to run 450-500whp as a daily driver.

My current mods are (if I can remember all of them still, It's been over 5 years since I had everything put on).

1000cc Injectors
Walbro Fuel Pump
GTX3076(r?)
Perrin FMIC
44mm Wastegate with a dump pipe
Catless Invidia DP
N1 Race Exhaust
Tomei ELH
Custom CAI using Speed Density

That's all I can think of atm. With a tune I was running around 395hp and 415tq, but that was on Dynapacks.

I'd also like to make my car a lot more quiet without losing too much performance. Any ideas if I should grab a high flow cat DP or grab a different catback exhaust with resonators?

Any help is appreciated. This is the only real reliable source since I don't go to Subaru meets anymore and I just use my car as a daily. Thanks in advance.

TLDR: Looking for someone to list out an engine build or pre-built engine that is capable of supporting 450-500whp as a daily.
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Old 08-04-2018, 11:12 AM   #2
viper_crazy
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Your parts list is as follows:
https://www.iagperformance.com/IAG-S...g-eng-1211.htm

Don't overwhelm yourself with a build-a-block parts list if you have no clue how to build one, don't have the proper clearance gauges and other tools, don't know the proper torque specs and patterns, and you're on a limited time frame.

Next, I kinda want to apologize for giving you that response because I am a huge proponent of learning and educating, but building an engine isn't for the faint of heart and so if you're on a time schedule, buy a built block from guys who have a solid reputation and experience and have a shop do the work. I took two years to research what components I wanted, how to install and assemble my own short block, and went back over the research and looked at it all several more times to familiarize myself with it, purchased all the parts, and worked at building it over 8 or 9 months, checking and double checking and triple checking my work to make sure it is right. In all, my car sat in my garage for nearly three years from a simple rod bearing failure while I took on this task of learning how to build my Subaru and I did it because I wanted to learn.

If you want to learn and build it yourself, I'd recommend getting a second car and don't even think about setting a date for when you'll start driving it again and don't worry about getting it done as soon as possible. There's a lot to learn and a lot to potentially screw up so it would be a shame to spend all that money just to screw up your build because you were on a time crunch.

That said, what you get with that block I linked above is as follows (the 5yo explanation):
-OEM engine case halves (yes, the Subaru engine is split in two).
-larger cylinder with larger pistons. OEM piston diameter is 99.5mm, and the pistons you're getting in that block are 99.75mm.
-stronger pistons to handle all that extra power and will also avoid the famous ringland failure.
-stronger connecting rods.
-newer design and stronger STi crankshaft.
-stronger bearings all around.
-power capabilities of what you're looking to achieve.
-peace of mind that the block is built to spec by people who know what they're doing.
-Warranty.

If you buy an IAG block and you're savvy enough to remove an engine and swap over parts, you can strip the engine down to the long block, take the engine to a shop so they can take the heads off, have em checked, and install them again so they're torqued down properly, and you can reassemble the rest of the parts and put the engine back in, that could save you a bit of money at least.

Some parts I'd recommend installing/getting installed while the engine is out and apart:
-silicone turbo inlet
-tgv deletes
-air pump deletes
-upgraded clutch to handle the power you're looking to make

Hope this helps in part.

Last edited by viper_crazy; 08-04-2018 at 03:23 PM.
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Old 08-04-2018, 02:21 PM   #3
Charlie-III
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Viper has been on here a while, from what I have seen (I am more NA Subaru), he has a clue.

Crawford, IAG, Outfront (sp?, believe in SoCal), call them, state your goal and parts you have.
Listen.
Research.

Outfront may work a deal where you deliver an engine, a goal, they do the rest. You/shop reinstalls.
Check on warranty requirements.
I may slide on some things since I have dealt with some (in a good way) in the past. If they don't know you or get someone else to "head nod", warranty may be gone unless an approved installer does the work.

You have time, want to spend for measuring tools, do it right, yes, you can save a bit.
Yes, it's a GREAT feeling when you spend time, then twist the key and crap works!

But newb, time crunch, never did this before, DD......hmmmmm......bad recipe......
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Old 08-04-2018, 03:32 PM   #4
viper_crazy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie-III View Post
Viper has been on here a while, from what I have seen (I am more NA Subaru), he has a clue.
Thank you, sir. I'm just hoping to impart my experiences, at the very least, and just trying to help. By no means do I consider myself an expert, since there's still a lot I don't know and am not totally familiar with.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie-III View Post
Yes, it's a GREAT feeling when you spend time, then twist the key and crap works!
I still remember the day when I finally got all the kinks worked out and the engine fired right up. I think that day was the start of allergy season that year, come to think of it....
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Old 08-04-2018, 03:51 PM   #5
Charlie-III
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viper_crazy View Post
Thank you, sir. I'm just hoping to impart my experiences, at the very least, and just trying to help. By no means do I consider myself an expert, since there's still a lot I don't know and am not totally familiar with.




I still remember the day when I finally got all the kinks worked out and the engine fired right up. I think that day was the start of allergy season that year, come to think of it....
Not that my blessing on here means much, but you have a better clue than I on FI Subaru.
If you sucked, I would call you out.
Lots of others that are better versed than I on FI Subaru on here, but you don't suck in my eyes.
Again, FWIW.

Keep helping peeps, I appreciate it.
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Old 08-04-2018, 04:03 PM   #6
viper_crazy
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I would actually appreciate that, personally, haha. Being called out or corrected on something is how I learn.

I appreciate the feedback and compliments. At least I know I'm not off on my own deal....or maybe I am?

Anyways, hopefully we didn't get too off topic.
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Old 08-04-2018, 07:33 PM   #7
subaru_gc8
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IAG seems to be the cheapest option if you want a 2.5. I think what would be cool is to ge a ej207 v10 and run that with a G25 660. FYI you have never seen the liners on the v10 blocks they are super thick. I think the problem with the 2.5 block is that there is a part of the cylinder that is drilled out to fit the head studs and that becomes a weak point in the cylinders. unfortunately I have seen closed deck blocks that have had that little part blown so.... yeah thats just my 2 cents

Last edited by subaru_gc8; 08-04-2018 at 07:41 PM.
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Old 08-04-2018, 08:24 PM   #8
Virco
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Thank you everyone and especially Viper! My shop told me to get that exact block. I just wanted to get more than one opinion. I'll definitely look into doing everything you mentioned. I also have a clutch already. The ACT Heavy Duty 6-Puck Disc Clutch.

To clear things up. I won't be doing any of the install myself. I have a shop that will handle all of the labor. I just wanted to make sure and buy all the parts needed for an easy and smooth build. I know it'll take a month or two to get all the parts and put it together.

Also as a side note about my exhaust. Any recommendations if I should change just my DP or CBE or just get a whole new TBE to achieve a more quiet sound. Right now it's just WAY too loud. It was cool in my 20s...
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Old 08-04-2018, 09:27 PM   #9
Charlie-III
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Virco View Post
Thank you everyone and especially Viper! My shop told me to get that exact block. I just wanted to get more than one opinion. I'll definitely look into doing everything you mentioned. I also have a clutch already. The ACT Heavy Duty 6-Puck Disc Clutch.

To clear things up. I won't be doing any of the install myself. I have a shop that will handle all of the labor. I just wanted to make sure and buy all the parts needed for an easy and smooth build. I know it'll take a month or two to get all the parts and put it together.

Also as a side note about my exhaust. Any recommendations if I should change just my DP or CBE or just get a whole new TBE to achieve a more quiet sound. Right now it's just WAY too loud. It was cool in my 20s...
A six puck in SoCal?!?!

To me, puck clutches are about an "on/off" switch, not really good for stop and go traffic.

I normally do ACT street clutches."
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Old 08-04-2018, 09:58 PM   #10
viper_crazy
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As for clutches, buy one that will handle the torque you're looking to achieve. ACT's six puck clutch (they have 4 kits) at minimum is rated for 668 ft-lbs torque. That's a lot of clutch, but should be more than adequate to hold your power goals. You'll need to get used to it as a daily driver, though. Good luck, haha.

I have an Exedy Stage 2 Cerametallic 3 Puck clutch and that was an interesting experience getting used to it. It wasn't horrible but it was different enough.

As for exhaust, if you're installing it at the time of your engine install and getting a tune, I'd install a TBE with a quieter tone, maybe one that includes a resonator to further tame it down, or you can have a shop weld one in. You'll probably want a DP with a high flow cat considering CA laws. Just some suggestions, is all.

If you're fixing to change it out sooner than later, just put in a quieter CBE. Cobb's cat back is fairly tame, imo. If you can find an SPT cat back, those are pretty docile at idle and cruise, but get a bit rowdy when you're having fun.

Last edited by viper_crazy; 08-05-2018 at 01:49 AM.
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Old 08-05-2018, 01:46 AM   #11
Sneezeguts
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The block viper linked looks good, I'd also recommend arp head studs. Think about what's worth replacing now with the motor out. Motor mounts, pitch stop, clutch, flywheel (yours might be salvageable), old hoses, etc..
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Old 08-06-2018, 01:59 AM   #12
Rideit636
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I'd spend the little more and get the stage 2.5 for the closed deck. I've seen too many cracked liners at those power levels, and personally cracked them on 2 different builds. It's cheap insurance. The reason your car is so loud is a combination of the atmospheric dumped wastegate, catless, and that N1 exhaust. I'd recommended a Q300 catback and a re-circulated gate setup. I'm actually selling a custom recirculated setup that is a Grimmspeed catted downpipe and Grimmspeed 44mm EWG up pipe fabricated to recirc with a Vibrant stainless flex section. Don't forget to have the heads properly rebuilt if they're useable.
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Old 08-06-2018, 10:26 AM   #13
viper_crazy
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You can get your current dump pipe re-routed to your downpipe, too.
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Old 08-17-2018, 08:38 PM   #14
Chaudruc
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The main thing you should worry about in EJ Builds are to Close Deck the block.

IAG Engines are warranteed, and closed decked, therefore thats the insurance you need to purchase their engine along with they build the best engines in my opinion, matched with a stage 3 or 5 MAperformance head, you should be all set.
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Old 08-20-2018, 04:32 PM   #15
Chrisjdumas
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Default IAG Block

I am in the process of building a IAG built motor at the moment. I agree with everyone else in going with IAG. Called them up and gave me a full run down on just about EVERYTHING you need. Not a cheap endeavor but heres the list..

IAG Stage 2.5 Closed Deck Block
Stock heads with Valve job, Stock size BC Valves and BC Springs
BC 280 Cams
Steam 67+R (for now until rotated)
ID1300s
Radium Fuel setup
DW300
Turbosmart 38mm EWG
Cobb FMIC
IAG TGV deletes
HKS EL Headers
Catless Exhaust
Cobb 4 Bar Map Sensor
Killer B Pan and Pick up
K&N Short Ram
ACT Lightened Flywheel
ACT Street Clutch

Thats the majority of the big stuff, Should give a rough idea of what you'll want/ need. Than you also have motor mounts and other stuff you'll likely want to upgrade. Previous set up on 17 pounds made 362/340 before a bearing went. 3 more degrees of timing would make 375 easy. I started the endeavor and it snowballed into a big money pit. Car will also have to be converted to speed density before tuning but will broken in on MAF. Right now the process of getting the dang oil pump primed as its being a pain. Long story short IAG knows their stuff. James at IAG walked me through everything parts wise. Awesome experience so far so I would definitely recommend giving them a call and talk to them about what your goals are Thanks (I'm new take it easy on me) lol
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Old 08-20-2018, 07:39 PM   #16
Supernouht
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Building a motor is pretty easy imo as long as you take your time and make sure you do everything right. But for your first build doing it by yourself it is a possibility that you make a silly mistake that causes you to have to do the whole thing over again.

I have 1 question about you saying you need a new block. Did you damage your current block? If you have damaged cylinders you can have the block sleeved (which is something you'd do for a high power engine anyway).

As far as your build you'll basically need:
-block (and preferably have it either close decked or sleeved)
-pistons (you have to decide between forged and cast. Forged are stronger but have to fit looser in the cylinder due to higher expansion and this causes faster wear and extra noise when cold. Cast are better for a sub 400hp motor that you want as a daily driver, they have better weat characteristics and less heat expansion but are not as strong for handling high boost.
What I would personally do with your particular motor is get forged but have the crowns swain TBC coated which in theory would reduce heat expansion, and have the skirts coated with their low friction coating which is supposed to actually thicken a piston wall and/or just run a slightly tighter cylinder than you normally would with a forged piston. But keep in mind that is something I WOULD do, not something I HAVE done. )
-rod bearings
-main bearings
-wrist pins (probably included with your pistons)
-crankshaft (any good crank should be ok but may as well go forged)
- rods (get some forged ones, they're not that expensive)

Another thing to consider is compression ratio which will dictate the piston dish cc and/or rod length you choose (+1mm rods are available and are an easy way to bump up compression a full point). Also keep compression ratio in mind when choosing your head gasket thickness as there are a few different options that will fit EJ motors.
-oil pan (probably want an sti pan to clear fancy headers)
-have everything balanced (or do like me and use a dremel and digital scale)
And that's pretty much it as far as short block. Or you could just buy a build short block (preferably sleeved or closed decked) and save youself a lot of stress lol!
But if you want to learn and have the time to research every step then go for it. It's not rocket science, just take your time.
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Old 08-20-2018, 10:29 PM   #17
viper_crazy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supernouht View Post
But if you want to learn and have the time to research every step then go for it. It's not rocket science, just take your time.
FINALLY! Someone who thinks the same way I do! Sure, there's a fair bit you need to know, but it's learn....able?? Haha. Seems like everyone thinks that building a motor can only be done by NASA scientists. Some of the world's fastest cars were built by people who've never even graduated high school...
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