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Old 05-05-2014, 11:36 AM   #176
SonicWRX
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Good threads are timeless. I finally got time to do this and am AMAZED by the ride quality improvement of my STi. Kudos to the OP!

I did learn a few things that could save you some time:

- The easiest way to clean out the old grease is to use a screw cap from a one gallon milk jug. Use a small screw to attach the cap to the end of a 12" (or so) stick or dowel rod. The milk cap is just the right diameter to put into the strut body and scrape the old grease out. Every time you pull the cap through the grease it will almost fill up.

- After the grease is mostly gone, the perfect tool to then scrub out the inside of the strut body is a round brush that is made to clean the evaporator coils of a refrigerator. I had one of these laying around and that combined with my parts washer made for some shiny clean strut bodies.

- You MUST take the spring off BEFORE loosening the nut that holds the rod to the strut body. The reason is that the spring is pulling the rod away from the body and as soon as you loosen the nut with the spring still attached, the rod will pull out of its slotted hole and spin. This situation could require you to cut the nut off.

- If you have to cut the nut off, you will most likely damage the rod threads which then need to be cleaned up with a die before re-assembly. The correct size is M10 x 1.25.
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Old 05-05-2014, 06:54 PM   #177
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This must be a thing for all of these cars?

I have a 2011 STi and the clunk started this winter. Front does it more often and I get a clunk every so often in the rear. Does not do it all the time. But like was stated, it happens when I take off or hit some bumps. Ive been wanting to try and hunt it down but after reading this. I think it is just that. The struts.
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Old 05-06-2014, 04:48 PM   #178
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wow this is a great idea awesome write up
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Old 05-20-2014, 11:41 AM   #179
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Like Sonic said - the good threads are timeless...

My question regarding this zerking of the rears is; "how do you determine to zerk or replace"? The reason I ask is that we picked up an auction-house 02 TS wagon for our daughter's first driver and now that everything else is fixed, it has the wonderful 'clunk' that we all know and love. It's got 256k on it and the struts, while OEM, are of undetermined age and leaking a little at the top end.

They pass the bounce test with flying colors - so it's just the 'clunk' and leak to deal with. Will adding the zerk do the trick, or should I replace the strut since it's leaking a little?

Thanks!
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Old 05-20-2014, 03:45 PM   #180
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An 02 TS doesn't use inverted struts does it? If not, you can't disassemble them like in this DIY.

From your description, I'd say new struts.
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Old 05-20-2014, 06:19 PM   #181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SonicWRX View Post
An 02 TS doesn't use inverted struts does it? If not, you can't disassemble them like in this DIY.

From your description, I'd say new struts.
...and I just checked (should of done this before posting), but the bottom end of the struts are solid, welded in to the bottom of the tube. So inverted or not, new struts it is.

Thanks for the assist!
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Old 01-04-2015, 08:32 PM   #182
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Question

I ended up with a spare set of OEM struts and decided to give this a try. I modified both the back and the front too. Not a particularly complex job, but took some time and patience. Only time will tell, but so far the ride feels a little smoother and less clunky. Mahalo!

One question though, is there a vendor source for just straight providing a replacement for the strut piston. Everything else is totally reusable, but these struts have a lot of miles on them and I would like to buy some replacement strut pistons. Just as spares. Not looking for the full strut rebuild from Feal Suspension. Don't really need it, but replacement strut pistons would be awesome.
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Old 02-05-2015, 02:40 PM   #183
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my grease fittings will hit the strut tube when threaded all the way in, so i may need to grind the fittings (im using either 45 or 90s). I wanted to get some thin washers to time the grease fitting right to stop where i want it.
should i install some thin rubber gasket type washers as a seal?
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Old 05-17-2015, 12:32 PM   #184
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Default STI rear strut.

After fitting rear strut,do you nip up the 17mm nut and then tighten the shaft in middle with 6mm allen key clockwise until it tightens no more and then finally tighten 17 mm nut.
STI V7 Bugeye,
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Old 06-04-2015, 03:48 PM   #185
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So ill be doing this very soon but to all 4 and i was wondering if someone could share how much of the mobil1 red grease is needed???

Last edited by 04jaxwrex; 06-18-2015 at 12:35 AM.
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Old 01-06-2016, 10:05 PM   #186
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I know this is old thread but what fitting was used here? Linky?
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Old 04-25-2016, 03:54 PM   #187
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Got a cheap set of 03 sti pinks, I bought Lucas Red N Tacky grease in the tube 400g.

My question is how much grease do I need? I bought two tubes and i have a old jar of RednTacky laying around that I can use as well.
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Old 06-18-2016, 10:04 AM   #188
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Great post. 6 years past and its still providing guidence. I did this yesterday. Small hickup when i got to the bottom strut bolt spinning from key slot but ended up getting it. Im not one to turn a wrench too often but this task was a no brainer with the help of this detailed writeup. No more clunk! What a dream with the clunk gone.
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Old 07-13-2016, 05:08 AM   #189
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I can't stand the rear clunk my STi is making... it's sooooo annoying.

I am most likely doing this when I get the car on the lift at home and I have some spare time.

-Nigel
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Old 02-07-2017, 02:33 AM   #190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NHSubie View Post
Like Sonic said - the good threads are timeless...

My question regarding this zerking of the rears is; "how do you determine to zerk or replace"? The reason I ask is that we picked up an auction-house 02 TS wagon for our daughter's first driver and now that everything else is fixed, it has the wonderful 'clunk' that we all know and love. It's got 256k on it and the struts, while OEM, are of undetermined age and leaking a little at the top end.

They pass the bounce test with flying colors - so it's just the 'clunk' and leak to deal with. Will adding the zerk do the trick, or should I replace the strut since it's leaking a little?

Thanks!
Many, many people replace shock absorbers, struts that have nothing wrong with them. If they aren't leaking...they are probably good. If yours are leaking they are bad. One thing that is overlooked by most are the springs.....your suspension springs can and will wear out. Sometimes in under 100K miles. Want to restore that new car, firm but supple ride.....new springs. Dampers only control the rate at which the springs rebound from being compressed....dampers do not make your car ride better unless they are worn out.....leaking....and can no longer control rebound of the springs. They do not in any way absorb "shock". That is the job of the tire and suspension springs. Hwy61
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Old 02-07-2017, 02:38 AM   #191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Type R powR View Post
my grease fittings will hit the strut tube when threaded all the way in, so i may need to grind the fittings (im using either 45 or 90s). I wanted to get some thin washers to time the grease fitting right to stop where i want it.
should i install some thin rubber gasket type washers as a seal?
No, don't grind on the zerk fitting. There is a ball on the inside end that keeps it sealed. Remove those and get some with shorter threads. You do not want the fitting to hit in inner damper. Hwy61
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Old 02-07-2017, 02:44 AM   #192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToneWrx02 View Post
Got a cheap set of 03 sti pinks, I bought Lucas Red N Tacky grease in the tube 400g.

My question is how much grease do I need? I bought two tubes and i have a old jar of RednTacky laying around that I can use as well.

Pack the inner chamber as much as possible before reassembly....the problem is...you will not be able to get it filled all the way....neither can Subaru unless they've changed the set up. Thick oil would have worked fine and forever but the waxy stuff just sticks to the sides and is not picked up and distributed by the inner parts.

Once you have filled and installed the struts apply additional grease with a grease gun.....you will notice several strokes that are easy and then there will be resistance to more grease. Time to stop...the chamber is full. From time to time you can clean the fitttings and try to add a little more grease but if there is resistance...it is still full. The problem is.....there is no way to completely fill the chamber the damper sits in which is why a grease fitting is necessary to finish the filling job. Hwy61
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Old 04-05-2017, 04:53 AM   #193
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wheres all the pictures??
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Old 05-18-2017, 03:15 PM   #194
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I'd just like to know where all this grease is going that I've been adding for years.

I'd rather just put a better riding/performing setup on my car but to my knowledge there isn't really anything out there that meets my needs...cheaper, better and daily (all year) driver friendly.
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Old 07-06-2017, 12:21 PM   #195
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Thanks to the OP and others that have added to this thread.

My son recently bought a 2004 RS with a full 2005 STi engine/trans/driveline/suspension/brake swap.

Yes, we had a strut clunk, no signs of leaking oil.

We used a different DIY, but very similar to this one, either works.

We used 1/4-28 threaded Zerk fittings with a 45* bend in them.
We drilled the hole on the side towards the rear bumper, sorta under the bottom spring perch drain hump (you see it, it WILL make sense) about 3/4" below that. Any closer to the perch, you can't spin the fitting in.

Ours tightened up nicely without intruding into the bore. If yours go inside the bore, you MUST make clearance.

Otherwise, you can do this even without pictures, the words are enough.
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Old 07-06-2017, 12:38 PM   #196
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I'm to the point now that adding grease no longer removes the clunk on the passenger rear.

Stupid design, wish there was a cheap upgrade that wasn't garbage.
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Old 07-25-2017, 10:52 PM   #197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notacarguy View Post
wheres all the pictures??
You've probably heard by now that PhotoBucket invited members to host pictures, provided the links for copying and pasting......and then shut everyone down that was 3rd party posting....i.e., copying hosted pictures and then pasting them at forums like NASIOC unless you agreed to fork over $400.....needless to say this thoroughly irritated many, many people. I lost no pictures...just the ones that over the years I had hosted at PB. I have all originals. I am presently hosting at another site and putting pictures back that are most important. This is a time consuming effort.....you can thank PhotoBucket. Hope they go out of business. Hwy61
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Old 11-13-2017, 01:35 AM   #198
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You can also just add the photobucket embed fix to your browser and be able to see PB images again: https://chrome.google.com/webstore/d...fegnfnflicjjgj
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Old 05-01-2018, 10:31 PM   #199
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My car ('04 STi) just rolled over to 70k miles last week, and I've been experiencing (or at least noticing) the "clunky" rear end for the last 10k or so. Just finished this today thought I'd share some thoughts.

The factory grease had the color and consistency of a tub of margarine that had been sitting out at room temperature. I found that a plastic spoon worked really well for clearing out the majority of it, but the taste was kinda off. :P

I used the shop-towel-pipe-cleaner technique to remove what was left, and managed to trap all of my metal shavings with a shop towel cradled a long 'U' shape.

Can anyone explain the point of step 15 (packing the inner strut assembly before re-installing the damper)? Isn't the point of installing a grease fitting to be able to fill this area while the strut is assembled?

Anyway, I skipped it. I just put some grease on the seals and on the lower portion of the damper so it would slide in easily, then packed them full with the grease gun after the whole thing was together.

I went way overkill and got a pneumatic gun, which I will probably have no use for outside of this project... I ended up shooting grease 5-6 feet through the air out of the upper seal on the first strut because I didn't know when to stop filling... Fortunately it didn't tear or anything. I was able to tuck it back down and get it to seat evenly and still make a good seal.

The difference this makes to the car is night and day! As others have mentioned, this actually changes a lot about how the car feels overall. One thing I did not expect is smoother acceleration. This actually makes sense to me now that I think about it, given that the smoother suspension travel is less jarring/disruptive to the drivetrain. Up until now, it seemed like I had a somewhat uneven power band and I was thinking about replacing fuel delivery stuff.

Smooth clutch engagement is easier to accomplish. Less than stellar roads are no longer making me cringe when I go over each bump. Sharp turns from a dead stop are less jerky (I thought this was an LSD issue). The interior is quieter. I'm sure I will notice other improvements.

Falling in love with my car all over again!
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Old 11-08-2018, 04:44 PM   #200
Laxcrazy23
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Can this process be done on '13 sti? the clunking is getting unbearable but the structs are not blown.
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